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I bought a Ruger 22/45 MK III , but need help

Discussion in 'Handguns: Autoloaders' started by efeng9622, Jul 28, 2007.

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  1. efeng9622

    efeng9622 Member

    Joined:
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    I just bought it this afternoon on a gun show, I haven't shoot it and try to learn to clean it, but I found this gun is difficulty to disassembly and reassembly. I follow the instruction and just did one step and can't continue. when I were on the show, I asked the dearler if they can show me to the first time to disassembly, but they said it is difficult to show me because they need to use some tool such as a plastic hammar) and they also said I don't need to disassembly it every time after I shoot and just one year one time becasue .22 is pretty clean. now I don' think they told me true after I read a instruction book. ( I have a .22 rifle and I have to disassembly it every time after shooting)I really like this gun, but if I can't disassembly and reassembly it by myself, maybe I have to exchange it tomorrow ( the show is two days) and got another gun I don't really like it because I can't refund it.
    Please help, thanks!
     
  2. PotatoJudge

    PotatoJudge Member

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    You really shouldn't take the gun all the way down every time you shoot, and you really don't need to. I normally just lock the bolt open and clean what I can see. Don't mess with cleaning the barrel or anything else because it's really not needed unless you're having problems.

    I'd recommend keeping the gun and learning to take it down. It's not hard at all once you've figured out how (which usually means making every possible mistake at least three times).

    Or you can buy one of these:

    http://majesticarms.com/ruger22.html
     
  3. JDGray

    JDGray Member

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    The MKIIIs are harder to takedown then the MII. Follow the manual precisly, and you'll be fine. The plastic hammer is usually only needed on the all steel guns, to hit the frame off the barrel, the plastic 22/45s are fitted a bit looser. Remember to remove the magazine, and you should get it. All the tipping up and down is just to get the hammer to fall, and if you can remember:
    1. Hammer flat to remove & install bolt
    2. Hammer vertical to install lock pin- main spring
    The tricky part is installing the lock pin.
    1. muzzle down, pull trigger (to get the hammer up)
    2. install lock pin into the barrel through the bolt
    3. Rotate it in about halfway
    Muzzle up to swing the hammer strut into the mainspring cup, finish locking the lever in(should feel spring pressure, if the strut made it into the cup.

    Once you get it, and understand what all the tipping is doing, you will be able to feild strip, and assemble in 30 seconds:neener:
     
  4. efeng9622

    efeng9622 Member

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    Location:
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    I followed instruction and did these steps.
    0) Pull the bolt.
    1) Remove the magazine.
    2) Place the safety in the " off".
    3) Pull the trigger to be sure the hammer has fallen.
    4) use a tool to swing the housing latch open like the blade of a pocket knife.
    5) swing the entire housing outward on its pivot and pull downward, I want to
    remove the mainspring housing and bolt stop pin. I used a small hammer ( with some clothes) to lightly tap the bolt stop pin, but the pin didn't move out at all and so I can't remove anything and can't continue. I am not sure how hard I can tap it without damage it.

    If I fail to do it now and just lock the bolt and clean and put some lubticants on where I can see, How long usually can i shoot without problem? My .22 rifle ( Remington 597) is pretty dirty every time after I shoot it.

    Thanks!
     
  5. David the Gnome

    David the Gnome Member

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    Location:
    Lexington, KY
    Try asking on here: http://www.rugerforum.net/

    There's a lot of guys on there who can sympathise with you and tell you the easiest way to strip the gun. I believe they even have a link to a page with step by step picture instructions for the 22/45.
     
  6. JDGray

    JDGray Member

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    If you have a hard plactic hammer, hit the bolt stop down dirrectly, your not gonna hurt anything.:)
     
  7. Norb

    Norb Member

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  8. weregunner

    weregunner Member

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    Ruger Mark III Field Stripping Reassembly Procedures

    Click thumbnail image to enlarge

    Step #1 Ensure hammer is in the fully down or cocked position.
    Step #2 Slide receiver onto frame. Look to ensure rear bolt stop holes are perfectly aligned.
    Step #3 Ensure hammer is fully back, reach in and pull down if necessary.
    Step #4 Insert bolt into receiver. Caution - visually verify firing pin stop pin is installed prior to full bolt insertion. New Mark III with a roll pin firing pin stop (picture here)
    Step #5 Flip pistol upside down and insert an empty magazine.
    Step #6
    Squeeze trigger and push hammer fully forwards (uncocked position ) with a punch or other long tool. Note - if the hammer is not positioned fully forwards the mainspring housing will not seat properly in step #8.
    Step #7 Insert mainspring housing bolt stop pin until it "clicks" fully in place. Note - you should see rounded part of bolt stop pin above the top of rear receiver hole.
    Step #8 *Most Critical Step* of reassembly. Swing mainspring housing nearly closed, tilt pistol slightly rearwards so hammer strut falls onto mainspring housing ledge, close housing slowly, ensuring hammer strut stays in place.
    Step #9 *Without Force* Close mainspring housing latch. If latch doesn't want to close, reopen latch and perform Step #8 again. (22/45 must remove magazine to close latch fully)
    Step #10 Open bolt assembly. Bolt should automatically lock open. Pull bolt rearwards and depress bolt catch lever, close bolt. Squeeze trigger, hammer will fall. FINISHED! (22/45 reinsert magazine prior to performing step #10)

    Try this or go to www.guntalk-online.com/fsprocedures.htm or www.mkiii.org/forum/index.php. These should give you what you need. Others are right www.rugerforum.net or www.rugerforum.com people can help out with this.
     
  9. Euclidean

    Euclidean Member

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    Location:
    Texas
    I have this very gun. A lot of people will tell you "just get a Mk II" but don't realize it's not always practical, possible, or financially wise to do so.

    For whatever reason they can't make a .22 pistol that doesn't have a weird takedown. I think the simplest one I've ever stripped and reassembled was a Beretta Neo, and even it was kind of strange.

    I sort of panicked a little bit at first too. It is a weird gun to work with, but you will learn if you keep trying. I'll be honest it still takes me more than one try to get it. Sometimes I can reassemble it in less than a minute, sometimes it takes like five minutes because I keep messing up. But I always get it.

    The first time you have to do it by yourself, you will go crazy trying to figure it out, it may take you a long time fiddling with the thing. Don't panic, don't get impatient, your problems are normal and you will overcome them. Just as it's difficult for some people to learn how to ride a bicycle, some people do have a harder time than others reassembling this pistol. But anyone can ride a bicycle if they try hard enough, and anyone can learn to strip and reassemble this pistol.

    Look at everything these guys have posted, tinker with it, and think of it like a puzzle. Look at what you're doing very closely with a flashlight, see how all the assemblies are supposed to match up in your mind's eye, and eventually you will have that "Eureka" moment.

    Once you've done it once successfully, the second time will be hard but not as hard. The third time it will take you a few minutes but you'll get it.

    http://i4.tinypic.com/16gc2uo.jpg

    Picture is kind of big so I linked it.

    It's worth it. I have had a fit with my front sight coming loose no matter what I do, but I still consider this the best .22 LR semiauto available for my intended purposes.
     
  10. efeng9622

    efeng9622 Member

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    I used the rugerforum which David the Gnome gave to me . I got this link and tried.
    http://www.guntalk-online.com/2245detailstripping.htm
    Now I can do that, just sametimes I forget something and have to go back to do
    again.
    I saw the Weregunner's prcedures. it is almost same, the step #8 and #9 are
    little bit difficult but are key points.
    Today I tried this gun, it is pretty good. I like it so much!
    Thanks all of you!
     
  11. weregunner

    weregunner Member

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    You're welcome and there is no charge. There aren't any elephants or buffalo that we could get to do that.:what::):rolleyes::D
     
  12. efeng9622

    efeng9622 Member

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    Yesterday, when I disassembled and reassembled this gun after I shoot it., I believe I did everything correctly just like I did before. But I couldn’t insert magazine after I put mainspring housing back. I used force to push magazine back ( I regret I did that, maybe damaged my gun somewhere ) and I found I can’t pull trigger to dry fire ( trigger doesn’t work) and bolt stop pin also doesn’t work sometime .I tried to pull mainspring housing out again , but I couldn’t. I had tried about half hour and eventually I pulled mainspring housing out occasionally , then I put it back. The problem was gone. But it make me so worry because I went to a wrong way but I don’t know where I didn’t wrong. I decide I will do disassembly as less as I can from now before I really know where is key point.
    I guess there is only thing which maybe coursed this accident, it is a part call “ hammer Assembly , Complete” it is #36 in Exploded view . When I going to
    put mainspring housing back, I flip the pistol upside down, I can see this
    part and It can be moved at two positions: forward and backward ( I mean back ward is go to “ bolt” direction). Someone told me the correct position is “ forward”, but maybe I let it on backward and I didn’t awake when I inserted housing . The Ruger instruction even didn’t mention this part when reassembly.

    Thanks!
     
  13. camper

    camper Member

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  14. greener

    greener Member

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