I feel so stupid..I may have butchered my Bersa....

Discussion in 'Handguns: Autoloaders' started by saturno_v, Apr 9, 2015.

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  1. saturno_v

    saturno_v Member

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    A typical case of reading too much on the internet and thinking too little.

    I discovered on the slide of my Bersa Thunder 40, immediately behind the ejection port, some tiny dots yellowish in color which I thought were some sort of brass particles impact dots.

    I read that if you use a brass brush and some light cleaner (used some regular spray Remington oil) the bluing may not be damaged.....right.....now the entire part look faded and a touch on the yellowish side in color...I thought they could be brass residual from the cleaner and brass brush..., tried to clean it....still there...

    I think the steel alloy of the gun itself is a tinge of yellow in color....the spots I saw were scraped bluing not some sort of brass impact.

    Then I thought...yes brass is softer than steel....but still leather holster can wear bluing in pistols....

    So what is the rule?? Brass brushes do ruin bluing after all???

    If the bluing is really gone, Bersa bluing is a little more than just a coat of paint in my book.

    Is my stupid mistake fixable?? At least I learned my lesson on an inexpensive gun.


    Slide.jpg

    Slide_2.jpg

    slide_3.jpg
     
  2. M-Cameron

    M-Cameron member

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    eh...yeah, looks like you might have scuffed through some of the coating.

    honestly though it really doesnt look that bad and is hardly noticeable.....personally ide leave it. When the gun gets some more wear on it itll blend right in.


    if it really bothers you, you can have the slide refinished.....i would send it out for duracoat or ceracoat.
     
  3. Brass2grass

    Brass2grass Member

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    Ehh just a little tarnished. Far from ruined and easily fixed.
     
  4. mgmorden

    mgmorden Member

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    Looks well-worn in that one spot but certainly not ruined. If you're nervous about it degrease it and apply some cold blue. That should blend relatively well IF the original finish was actually bluing. It won't wear all that well but it'll look the part for a while.
     
  5. alexander45

    alexander45 Member

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    Looks like the finish has a bit of a straw color to it when warn thin
     
  6. Teachu2

    Teachu2 Member

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    Burnished, not butchered.
     
  7. saturno_v

    saturno_v Member

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    I think I did fix it pretty nicely...I degreased and cleaned that part then applied Birchwood Casey Super Blue with a cotton swab 3 times.

    Blended perfectly, it looks like natural...I'm extremely happy with the result.

    Learned my lesson...never ever try to clean bluing with a brass!!!
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2015
  8. herrwalther

    herrwalther Member

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    Most bluing is just controlled rusting to prevent further rust of what is underneath. Which is one of the reason why I do not liked blued guns anymore after having a few with weak coatings. You can use a cold bluing treatment to touch up where you took off the original finish. Avoid the cheap Birchwood Casey touch up pens though. They are only $3 for a reason.
     
  9. bannockburn

    bannockburn Member

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    Looks okay to me. Probably wouldn't have even noticed it all that much if you hadn't pointed it out to us. Just looks a little worn in that area; nothing major in terms of it's overall appearance.
     
  10. HexHead

    HexHead Member

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    Believe 10% of what you read on the Internet, and only 10% of that if it's on a gun forum.
     
  11. Taurus 617 CCW

    Taurus 617 CCW Member

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    When I want to remove brass residue from guns I use KG Industries, KG-12. They call it Big Bore Cleaner. It is one of the best copper cleaners I have ever used. I just put some on a Q-Tip and wipe gently until its gone. It may fix what happened to your slide seeing that it looks to be brass residue. It certainly will not harm the finish. I have used it on anything from an AR-15 that had a cerakote treatment to regular pistols with brass in the ejection ports. You can get it at Brownells and some other places.
     
  12. Sam1911

    Sam1911 Moderator Emeritus

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    Bersa doesn't claim it's blued. They say it is "matte black." So probably a paint coating of some kind. Looking around the net, it seems 'most everyone agrees that finish isn't very durable, or generally well-applied, even new.

    But so what? It is a very inexpensive gun that most folks find works reliably. Carry it, shoot it, enjoy it. Even if it was an expensive blued gun, it would get a LOT more worn than that pretty quickly through regular daily carry and use.

    Really, yours looks just fine. I can't imagine being even slightly concerned about having damaged it.
     
  13. saturno_v

    saturno_v Member

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    Sam

    The newer Bersas Thunder full size have a much more uniform finish.....I believe mine and the new ones are blued maybe not very durable or maybe I just scrubbed it too much.


    However I'm very happy with the Super Blue product, it looks perfect now, I'm glad. Will never use another brass brush again on a gun finishing, I learned my lesson... I will limit myself to soft nylon brushes but mainly, making sure nothing gets on the finishing in the first place.

    For everything else I absolutely love my Bersa Thunder 40....it is so comfortable to shoot, very accurate, light and ergonomic, even better looking IMHO than my full size Berettas and SIG...that is the reason I was so mad about the little blemish.
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2015
  14. 19-3Ben

    19-3Ben Member

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    So should I believe you? Or does it fall into that 99% of what one should disregard on gun forums?:neener:
    I kid, I kid.

    Saturno- Glad it worked out for you. I know I have messed things up on guns, and I'm sure everyone else here has as well.
    One time I couldn't get a bayonet unstuck from a 91/30 barrel. Used a dremel and cutting wheel to cut it off. Careful as I was, i cut a shallow gouge into the metal of the barrel, right beneath the bayonet's sleeve. Unfixable. It happened probably 5 years ago when i was still new to this stuff and I still feel like an idiot!
     
  15. g.willikers

    g.willikers Member

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    You don't want your shootin' irons to look pristine.
    The more experienced they look, the more experienced you look.
    And you can say things like, "Yeah, this old gun and I have survived some tough times together."
    :)
     
  16. MikeJackmin

    MikeJackmin Member

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    For future reference, you can safely use steel wool on bluing, IF you use plenty of oil, and IF you are gentle.
     
  17. george burns

    george burns Member

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    It looks just fine
     
  18. fastbolt

    fastbolt Member

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    It's a budget pistol with a budget finish. As long as feeding & functioning isn't impaired, I'd take it as a "lesson learned" experience about leaving well enough alone. ;) Don't really "fix it till it's broke".

    Then again, I've spent more than 30 years carrying issued and personally owned guns, so holster wear and the typical blemishes and cosmetic issues that can arise from everyday carry & range use/training are pretty much a "given" for my world.

    However, more than a decade before I got into LE or became a firearms instructor & armorer, one of my first DA revolvers was a well worn Colt .38 Spl that looked like it had a dull nickel finish (covered with a patina of over-lapping scratches) ... because all the bluing was long gone. Wiped it down after using it, and it never rusted on me.

    Brass markings from empty cases bouncing off ejection ports areas aren't worth more than maybe a light rubbing with a solvent or CLP dampened patch ... to me. ;)

    Then again, I stopped really scrubbing to remove carbon rings from the cylinder faces of stainless revolver cylinders many years ago, too. I ruined the finish of one of my older Blackhawks (blued) many years ago obsessing over that sort of thing. (Wish I still had that one, though, dammit. :banghead: ) Now, I just knock off any lead or fowling build up, and leave it alone. Carbon rings are character. ;)
     
  19. Drail

    Drail Member

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    If a brass brush used carefully removes the finish then that wasn't much of a finish. That looks like something other than hot bluing to me. Some kind of black oxide. But I am like fastbolt now. It's not a blemish or a defect. It's character. I found that a few drops of cold blue on a clean soft rag will remove brass tracks from a blued gun without removing any bluing. I have a Springfield 1911 I built in the 1980s. It's been refinished (blued) several times. Most guys would say that needs to be refinished again. Nope. I like the way it looks. It's like an old work truck. You don't shine it up. You just DRIVE that thing.
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2015
  20. justin22885

    justin22885 member

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    hmm... well, since its a cheap finish anyway, why not get rid of it entirely and replace the finish with something... better?.. perhaps a real bluing, like rust bluing, or a dark manganese phosphate parkerizing?
     
  21. Drail

    Drail Member

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    Parkerizing - oh yes!
     
  22. justin22885

    justin22885 member

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    what about sending in the slide to be nitrided?
     
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