I would like a small revolver

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I have not liked the two Ruger SP101's that I have owned. Their triggers were not good. I was told they aren't easy to lighten.

Of my many snub revolvers, my 2" S&W Model 10 made in 1961 or so is easily the most accurate. I'm not sure if it fits the size and weight requirements. Mine has an excellent trigger, and I know that their triggers can be worked on.
 
I think everyone thought you wanted a centerfire handgun.
I take it many Americans don't find much use for a .22 LR. You can't hunt with it and you can barely defend yourself with it. Its only advantage is cheaper ammo. Reloading any center fire ammo here starts at quadruple the price. 6 times .22 price and you get the cheapest center fire ammo available. That said, I've been told that there's less recoil in .32 than in .22 Standard, so I've been collecting, cleaning and priming .32 shells for a while. If I get myself a .22 or .38 instead of a .32, I'll just sell them at shell and primer price.
If a .22 LR will work for you I would recommend the S&W Model 63. I do not own one yet but all of my friends that have them just love them.
As long as I'm able to reasonably adjust the trigger weight and get a smooth pull, all is fine. I found a new one here. Let's see if I can test one somewhere.
I hope this helps.
It certainly does. Thanks for all the links.
I have not liked the two Ruger SP101's that I have owned. Their triggers were not good. I was told they aren't easy to lighten.
And I thought it was just a matter of replacing the hammer spring with a lighter one and polishing slide areas. A quick browse through the Norwegian version of Brownells gave me a set of several springs. I take it you never tried.
Of my many snub revolvers, my 2" S&W Model 10 made in 1961 or so is easily the most accurate. I'm not sure if it fits the size and weight requirements. Mine has an excellent trigger, and I know that their triggers can be worked on.
I got to test an old 10 in small revolver competition two years back. Owner was far from impressed with my results, but I had lots of fun, which is the most important part.
 
I'm searching for a suitable revolver for competition purposes. There are of course limits.
  • It must be smaller than 200 x 150 x 40 mm and weigh no more than 1,000 g.
  • Trigger weigh should be above 1.360 g..
  • Cylinder should have a capacity of at least 5 rounds
  • Accuracy is preferred, longest range in competition is 70 m.
I'm not a revolver guy so can't help you much there. Just want to say that I'm impressed that they have 70 meter shots in a competition with snubby revolvers there. Nice. Lot of folks carrying handguns here in the US think that 25 yards is a long shot, even with a full or mid size semi auto.
 
I carry two .357 640's S&W's when I ride my motorcycle. I chose them as they allow me to fire while they are still in my pocket. They are very good for self defense, but their accuracy is not good beyond 15 feet.
Sorry to tell you but it's not the guns that are not accurate out last 15 feet. Practice your trigger control.
 
I'm not a revolver guy so can't help you much there.
Double action revolvers are more difficult to handle than semi automatics and single action revolvers are slower, making them more fun to play with. Not mentioning percussion revolvers. No, I don't own one. Yet.
Just want to say that I'm impressed that they have 70 meter shots in a competition with snubby revolvers there. Nice. Lot of folks carrying handguns here in the US think that 25 yards is a long shot, even with a full or mid size semi auto.
Don't forget the time frame of down to 6 seconds. There's also a target spread of up to 60°, both vertically and horizontally. If it wasn't difficult, it wouldn't be fun.

Oh, we shoot up to 200 m with full magnum loads, but with more time on our hands. Same competition, just different weapon.
 
I take it many Americans don't find much use for a .22 LR. You can't hunt with it and you can barely defend yourself with it.
Not at all. I like shooting a .22 most and I use .22s for squirrel hunting and varmint removal. The .22lr is a great cartridge and I have both handguns and rifles in .22lr. I would not be without them.

There is a major competition dedicated to the .22lr, it's the Ruger Rimfire Challenge. It's a super fun match.
 
Not at all. I like shooting a .22 most and I use .22s for squirrel hunting and varmint removal. The .22lr is a great cartridge and I have both handguns and rifles in .22lr. I would not be without them.

There is a major competition dedicated to the .22lr, it's the Ruger Rimfire Challenge. It's a super fun match.
Then I take it you know how far down you can adjust the trigger weight on a .22 LR and which cartridges work best on tuned revolvers?

I had a nice chat with the club foreman an hour ago. He let me know that there's no limit to target spread in competitions as long as there's enough room between participants and safety is upheld. He also told me that in order to participate in Scandinavian competitions, one is required to be a member of a Scandinavian club and having attended to and passed an approved safety course.
 
I've so far stuck to 3.2 gr of Vihtavuori N320 coupled with 148 gr DEWC, set so they barely stick out. They seem sufficiently accurate for my usage, going great in my MR-73. Someone at the club recommend I switch to 105 gr SWC, with 1.8 gr N320, set equally deep. I've loaded a couple with varying powder loads and will give them a go next time I'm at the range. The Ruger LCR seems to be of hammerless design. Does its hammer mass equal that of the S & W 640, making decent trigger weight more difficult to achieve? I load with Federal primers but even they need a minimum impact to ignite.
The LCR model has an internal hammer and is only available in 1-7/8" (48 mm) barrel lengths... whereas the the LCRx has an exposed hammer and is available in both 1-7/8" (48 mm) and 3" (76 mm) barrel lengths in a variety of calibers. I recommended the LCRx 3 inch .357 caliber because it offers adjustable rear sights which are not available on the 1-7/8" models and a stainless steel frame and cylinder thus giving it a little extra weight (21 oz/595 g) that really helps tames recoil. Especially when shooting .38 Spcl as it allows you to get back on target quickly, which pays high dividends when involved in competitions. I picked one up this past summer and have been practicing with it and plan on using it in competitive shooting next year.
 
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I have not liked the two Ruger SP101's that I have owned. Their triggers were not good. I was told they aren't easy to lighten.

Of my many snub revolvers, my 2" S&W Model 10 made in 1961 or so is easily the most accurate. I'm not sure if it fits the size and weight requirements. Mine has an excellent trigger, and I know that their triggers can be worked on.

Actually they are relatively easy to lighten. In my spurless SP101 I changed to a 10# hammer spring coupled with the 8# trigger spring. Also installed a set of hammer shims in less than an hour. That included taking a drill bit and cleaning the trigger spring tunnel by hand turning it to clean out left over manufacturing debris. The trigger now is light and glass smooth.
 
As long as I'm able to reasonably adjust the trigger weight and get a smooth pull, all is fine. I found a new one here. Let's see if I can test one somewhere.

If I read that website correctly it looks like an S&W 63 will cost about $1,200 (USD), correct?

I am not really sure how to adjust trigger pull weight in that revolver but I am sure it will be smooth. All my Smith & Wesson revolvers have a very nice trigger pull with no adjustments.
 
Thank you for correcting me on possible SP101 trigger improvement. Apparently what a friend told me about it was completely incorrect.

When I have the time and energy I will change out the springs on my 4" 327.
 
My bad. I'll see if I can find it here somewhere. Not all models are available here in Norway.
If I read that website correctly it looks like an S&W 63 will cost about $1,200 (USD), correct?
Something like that, yes. Some things are quite dear here. Other things are just downright expensive.
I am not really sure how to adjust trigger pull weight in that revolver but I am sure it will be smooth. All my Smith & Wesson revolvers have a very nice trigger pull with no adjustments.
There are usually 2 or more springs in any revolver trigger mechanism. One for the cylinder stop and the other for the hammer. Ignore the cylinder stop. There may also be a trigger spring, but many revolvers don't have them, as the trigger is usually linked to the hammer in some manner. One simply reduces trigger weight by reducing the force of the hammer spring. In some instances, by replacing the spring, in others, adjusting a spring tightening screw. The drawback is that the hammer impact force is also reduced, demanding softer primers. Since there are 2 adjustment screws in my MR-73, I can turn down the hammer weight screw so much the hammer doesn't ignite anything, and I can turn down the trigger spring so the trigger doesn't return upon release.

Do rimfire cartridge brands vary in softness? If so, I'd like to know which ones are the softer, making the .22 a more viable option.
 
My bad. I'll see if I can find it here somewhere. Not all models are available here in Norway.

Something like that, yes. Some things are quite dear here. Other things are just downright expensive.

There are usually 2 or more springs in any revolver trigger mechanism. One for the cylinder stop and the other for the hammer. Ignore the cylinder stop. There may also be a trigger spring, but many revolvers don't have them, as the trigger is usually linked to the hammer in some manner. One simply reduces trigger weight by reducing the force of the hammer spring. In some instances, by replacing the spring, in others, adjusting a spring tightening screw. The drawback is that the hammer impact force is also reduced, demanding softer primers. Since there are 2 adjustment screws in my MR-73, I can turn down the hammer weight screw so much the hammer doesn't ignite anything, and I can turn down the trigger spring so the trigger doesn't return upon release.

Do rimfire cartridge brands vary in softness? If so, I'd like to know which ones are the softer, making the .22 a more viable option.

Haha :)...yes, I know about spring replacement or reducing spring tension by modifying the spring. I was thinking ore along the lines of the old S&W trigger spring tension screws. ;)

I have never heard of .22 ammo having a comparison done regarding “softest” to ignite the primer. I have heard of and experienced misfires while shooting cheap or questionable .22 ammo that wouldn’t fire. I would think that going with quality ammo that primer strike, in regards to the round itself, should not be an issue if the firing pin strikes it with adequate force.
If you are shooting out to 70 meters I would be more concerned with accuracy.

Here’s a piece of advice I give to all new Cowboy Action and tactical shooters that I meet; “Shoot the gun the way the factory made it. Get to know the gun. After a few hundred rounds then think about what the gun might need or what you need more practice doing.”

This is a conversation in another forum about the trigger pull of a S&W model 63.
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1980-present/405470-new-model-63-dont-like-trigger.html
I hope this is okay with the Moderators...

I have 3 J-Frame revolvers. All three had slightly rough trigger pulls when new. After a couple of hundred rounds they smoothed out and felt lighter but I did not actually test their trigger pull with a scale.
 
Actually they are relatively easy to lighten. In my spurless SP101 I changed to a 10# hammer spring coupled with the 8# trigger spring. Also installed a set of hammer shims in less than an hour. That included taking a drill bit and cleaning the trigger spring tunnel by hand turning it to clean out left over manufacturing debris. The trigger now is light and glass smooth.
Exactly what I did to mine. Along with some minor polishing. Very smooth.
 
Actually the S&W site lists a price of $769 US. I'm not sure where you got that $1200 price. Online the price is under $650 USD.

:) You are correct. The $1200 comes from the link he posted that had the price in Norway at 11,795 Krona, I believe. That equates to just under $1,200 (USD).
 
I have never heard of .22 ammo having a comparison done regarding “softest” to ignite the primer. I have heard of and experienced misfires while shooting cheap or questionable .22 ammo that wouldn’t fire. I would think that going with quality ammo that primer strike, in regards to the round itself, should not be an issue if the firing pin strikes it with adequate force.
If you are shooting out to 70 meters I would be more concerned with accuracy.
I use CCI Standard for practice and Aguila Match Pistol for events, believing the latter are more uniform. Both used in my Pardini Sp22. Aguila seem to drop around 20 - 30 cm at 70 m, being slightly weaker than CCIs. There are several other brands available here, like Winchester, Geco, Magtech and more. Don't think I've ever found cheap ammo here. I pay a minimum of NOK 350,- for a box of 500 CCI Standard.
Here’s a piece of advice I give to all new Cowboy Action and tactical shooters that I meet; “Shoot the gun the way the factory made it. Get to know the gun. After a few hundred rounds then think about what the gun might need or what you need more practice doing.”
I admit I played with both springs in my MR-73 before it was fully "run in", it being rather heavy to begin with. It's getting better and better every day, also thanks to lots and lots of dry firing. I have however never touched the sights. No need. A mate bought himself a brand new Hämmerli Xesse with shortened barrel for use in small pistol category. He later modified the slide spring several times for some unknown reason, and now it requires CCI Mini-Mag to reload.
This is a conversation in another forum about the trigger pull of a S&W model 63.
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1980-present/405470-new-model-63-dont-like-trigger.html
I hope this is okay with the Moderators...
I assume I'll have to find a well used one to find out if I like it or not, doubts have begun to arise.
I have 3 J-Frame revolvers. All three had slightly rough trigger pulls when new. After a couple of hundred rounds they smoothed out and felt lighter but I did not actually test their trigger pull with a scale.
Every new revolver I've tried so far have been both rough and heavy. I also got to play with a pretty well used Walther P22, measuring the trigger weight to 2.4 kg. Ever tried hitting something with a gun that doesn't even remotely fit your hand, and one with a heavy trigger to boot?
Actually the S&W site lists a price of $769 US. I'm not sure where you got that $1200 price. Online the price is under $650 USD.
This is the price tag he was referring to, linking to a website in Norway, which is why I in a former post wrote that some things are quite dear here. Other things are just downright expensive. Of course S&W are a lot cheaper in America.
 
Are you able to import / buy guns from Germany?

This company has some decent prices (relatively speaking) on used S&W M10 revolvers that look like they would be perfect for your competition:
https://www.waffen-ferkinghoff.com/english/used-guns/revolver

A 2inch barrel M66:
https://www.sakabsweden.se/shop/product/smith-wesson-66?tm=&sm=
I am, and very much so. Hunters House in Denmark is a well known shop among gun toting Norwegians. Another thread brought my attention to a Polish 9 mm pistol I'll be willing to examine for use in "military class" competition. I mentioned this to some Polish friends, incidentally owning a house an hours drive away from the factory. I do find it peculiar though, you pointing at the S&W 66 and not the MR-73 presently for sale there, being 199 mm long and perfect, not to mention, a far better revolver.
 
The S&W Model 34 (.22 lr) would be an excellent choice. I gave mine to my grandson 10 years ago.
It seems tuning the trigger on .22 revolvers to my preferrences, according to people I believe know what they're talking about, is somewhat tricky, perhaps even impossible. Chances are, .32 or .38S are better options.
 
:) You are correct. The $1200 comes from the link he posted that had the price in Norway at 11,795 Krona, I believe. That equates to just under $1,200 (USD).
This is the price tag he was referring to, linking to a website in Norway, which is why I in a former post wrote that some things are quite dear here. Other things are just downright expensive. Of course S&W are a lot cheaper in America.
Oh boy! That is one back of a markup. I'm lucky to be in the same country as S&W...
 
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