Great grandad's 38 special

Man, this is an awesome thread!

I have one I'd like to know the DOB and ID on:

a) 38 special
b) 5"
c) round
d) 6 shot
e) fixed
f) 225479 (on the butt and cylinder)

It's a little rough looking--I believe original finish. Slightly cracked pearl handle. Still shoots well.

sw_model_10_38_special.jpg

I'm considering refinishing it...would that hurt the value at all (if there is any)?


Thanks!
 
GunSafeHaven:
You have a .38 Military & Police Model of 1905 3rd Change manufactured between 1909 & 1915 in the serial range 146900 to 241703.
This gun predates heat treatment of cylinders, so don't shoot any PlusP +P+, jacketed or semi-jacketed ammo through it. Stick to lead standard pressure loads.
It also predates the internal hammer block safety. If dropped it could fire, so leave the chamber under the hammer empty.
Value is around $250, the grips may add a bit more. It is a round butt K frame, modern aftermarket grips should fit.
Refinishing it will destroy its value to a collector, but it isn't worth that much anyway. S&W will not work on Pre-1957 guns.
Fords is probably the best in the business for full restorations, but expect to pay for it. http://www.fordsguns.com/
 
357
hammerless
2" barrel
5 shot
BUD7631 serial no.
640-1 model number
sites: fixed
 
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petitelady:
The Model 640-1 .357 magnum Centennial Stainless was produced from 1996 to 2003. It used the upgraded J magnum Frame, the latest is a series of sequential increases on S&Ws small frame design going back to 1896 with the .32 Hand Ejector. By January 1996 S&W were already at CAMxxxx in the sequential serial range, so your gun is probably one of the first of that model, possiblyt produced in late 1995 in preparation for the 1996 commercial release.
 
Thanks for the info

Thanks so much for the information on my revolver! This thread is so cool! Thanks for all the time and effort and research that has gone into it.
Would my revolver be a good candidate for concealed carry or is it too large?
Thanks again!!!:cool:
 
Would my revolver be a good candidate for concealed carry or is it too large?
Revolvers don't get any smaller in serious SD calibers.

Some get lighter, but then you have sharp stinging recoil to deal with.

I'd say you are pretty well armed for CCW with what you got.

rc
 
It's an all steel gun, so a good belt and holster will be needed. Also look at a set of Hogue Bantam grips, these will make it less comfortable to shoot, but easy to conceal. But to answer your question, yes, it's a good concealed carry self defence gun.
 
Grandfather's S&W

Inherited this gun from my grandfather. He was a security guard at Oak Ridge during the build up and development of the bomb.
a. 38 spl.
b. 4 inches
c. round butt, walnut? with S&W medallion
d. 6 shot
e. fixed sights
f. C208966
g. Numbers under the crane are Q4 and 195
Serial numbers on the bottom of the barrel, cylinder face, and butt match.
38splresize.jpg
 
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imaybail:
Your grandfather's gun is a .38 Military & Police Postwar manufactured between 1948 & 1951 in the serial range C1 to C223998, so 1951 seems likely. The round butt is fairly rare for that era and they are walnut. Q4 & 195 are assembly numbers, used to track parts in the factory. They have no meaning after the gun is completed.
 
Gun ID

Radagast,
Thanks for the quick reply and info on my gun. Apparently my grandfather didn't carry this gun while working as a security guard at Oak Ridge. He was a constable in Morgan County TN after the war, so maybe that is when he got the gun.
 
rayban: That serial number should date your gun to late 2004, which would make your gun a 442-2. if it a 442 without a -x then it was produced between 1993 & 1996.
 
Thanks for the added info on my revolver being good for a concealed carry gun. It "hides" as well as my Bersa 380 and I like the 357 cal better.;)
 
what model, age, value

My cousin just picked up three handguns from his Mom when his step dad passed away. He wanted me to try to find out what they were and their worth. I have no idea of how to ID handguns.

I'm gonna list what I can find on the S&W.
Barrel is 6" and has 32 long CTR on right side.
the gun appears to be nickle
6 shot revolver
manual extractor
Square wood grips
SN in front of the grip frame 263622
Number on frame under cylinder appears to be 2078
 
warddog:
If a square butt then you have a Pre War .32 Regulation Police manufactured between 1917 & 1920, with 1917/18 being probable. The bottom of the butt should be stamped Pat. June 5 1917.

The markings on the barrel are actually .32 Long CTG, an abbreviation of .32 S&W Long Cartridge, the ammunition it is chambered for.

Value is not high, ranging from around $275 in good condition to $450 in excellent plus (near new) condition.

This gun predates heat treatment of cylinders so hot handloads should not be fired in it. Modern factory ammo is loaded to correct pressures and should be safe. It also pre-dates the modern internal hammer block safety. If dropped it could fire, so treat it as a five shooter, leaving the chamber under the hammer empty.
 
Thank you for the reply.
This pistol has fixed sights and wooden grips that are flat on the bottom. There is nothing on the bottom of the grips but the top of the barrel is stamped with:

Smith and Wesson Springfiled MASS USA PAT'D
Oct. 8.01 Dec.17.01 Feb. 8.08 Sept.14.09 Dec. 29.14
 
wardog:
Round butt grips are flat on the bottom as well, except they curve in from the arch of the grip at the back, rather than the two faces coming together at a point. The patent dates you quote are correct for a gun made from 1917 to the 1940s.

Simplest check is to take off the grips, if there is a notch half way down the back of the grip frame that the grips fit into then you have a Regulation Police.
If no notch then you have a .32 Hand Ejector 3rd model, its round butt cousin.
The 3rd Model/Regulation Police began production in 1917 at serial number 263000, so your gun is almost certainly a 1917 variant and may predate the issue of the patent by a few months, hence the lack of a patent date stamp.

Hope this helps. If still confused post a pic.
The Regulation Police was simply a square butt conversion of the round butt .32 Hand Ejector. They shared the same serial number range.
 
Help With Manufacture Date

I have two Radagast that I would like some help with - thank you sir.

a. .38 special
b. 2" barrel
c. Round butt
d. 5 shot
e. fixed sights
f. BEK77xx
g. Model 638

a. .38 special
b. 8 3/8" barrel
c. Square butt
d. 6 shot
e. Adjustable sights
f. K3028xx
g. Pre Model 14
 
Sealevel:
Your Model 638 .38 Bodyguard Airweight Stainless was manufactured 1989. Guns in the BEKxxxx range shipped in October of that year.

Your K38 Masterpiece was manufactured in 1957 and will be one of the last Pre-model 14s as model numbers were introduced in that year.
 
wrs840:
Late 1992 or early 1993 for your Model 65-5 .357 Military & Police Heavy Barrel. The -5 denotes a round butt 3 inch barrel version.

wardog:
The Regulation Police is probably worth $50 more than the Hand Ejector. The price range I quoted was for the Regulation Police.
 
I just picked up a nickel-finished snubby at Cabella's. They had it labeled as a Chief's special, but aren't those usually the 5 shot model 36s? Thank you for your help

a) .38 S&W Special
b) 1 7/8" (maybe 2")
c) Square
d) 6
e) fixed rear and front blade
f) S/N: C168XXX
g) no model number listed
 
Dustin_J:
You have a .38 Military & Police Postwar manufactured between late 1948 & 1951 in the serial range C1 to C223998. This is the Pre-Model 10, model numbers were introduced in 1957. The barrel length should be two inchs if OEM, a lot of guns in that era were cut down to make snubbies though. If the barrel has the locking lug for the ejector rod then it should be a factory barrel.
It's definitely not a Model 36, they have always been a 5 shot J (small) frame gun. The M&P is based on the larger K frame.
 
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