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Identity and Date of Manufacture of S&W Revolvers

Discussion in 'Handguns: Revolvers' started by Brian Williams, Jun 21, 2008.

  1. Shade00

    Shade00 Member

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    NG VI, your Model 28-2 was manufactured sometime between 1969 and 1972. The N prefix serials began in 1969 with serial N1, and 1973 began with N100000.
     
  2. Shade00

    Shade00 Member

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    All right all right aright Fuff. ;) I'll remind you that many spy types have killed others with .22s.... you know how the story goes. Any bullet is deadly. I don't mean to put down the .38 S&W, as I noted that I would hate to get hit by one. But since I do not have time to do my own reloads, .38 S&W is just too expensive to shoot. So it is not an effective home defense choice for me. :)

    You're absolutely right though, bullet placement is key.
     
  3. Old Fuff

    Old Fuff Member

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    Well O. K.... This time I'll let you off the hook. But only because I don't generally go for 125 grain full patch .38's going 625 FPS myself. :evil:

    Now go back to work... :D
     
  4. skoro

    skoro Member

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    Shade00 -

    Thanks for the info and sorry for the duplication.
     
  5. Oro

    Oro Member

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    NG VI Your Patrolman is likely 1971, according to S&W #s compiled elsewhere and an N-gun I have a few thousand away from that.
     
  6. NG VI

    NG VI Member

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    For some reason I had thought it was an earlier gun than that... What I get for losing the papers it came with!

    Would anyone reccomend getting it reblued by S&W or a different company or will it be corrosion resistant enough?
     
  7. Shade00

    Shade00 Member

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    Having it refinished by S&W will help it retain more value than having it refinished by another outfit. However, if you want a hardcore shooter that will stand up to anything, there's nothing wrong with a hard chrome finish.
     
  8. Oro

    Oro Member

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    Amen on the S&W refinish as Shade00 said. S&W's recent blue work I have seen is outstanding, and cost competitive or cheaper than other outstanding revolver shops. The sandblast/matte blue of the 28 is less expensive than a full polish blue job.

    Unless I were going to take it routinely out in the rain or snow, or keep it on a boat in saltwater, I would keep it blue. They will be worth more some day. Were I going to use it in either of those scenarios, I would keep it at home and carry a 2.5" or 4" 686 instead.
     
  9. NG VI

    NG VI Member

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    Yeah I think I will ask for a refinish for my birthday coming up, should it cost more than $100-150?
     
  10. Shade00

    Shade00 Member

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    I'm not certain. I would expect it to be $200-250, though. Someone else may be able to chime in and help here.
     
  11. zplug123

    zplug123 Member

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    Thanks for the info, though now I'm a little confused after looking over my newly-acquired S&W 28-2. The frame has N2279XX, but the cylinder arm has 11558.
     
  12. Oro

    Oro Member

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    Last I looked, S&W basic blue job was $180. Shipping and transfer back will add $$ (tip, call S&W and pay for a shipping label - much cheaper outbound that way).

    zplug - legally, the frame is the gun, so that is the # that matters. 1975 or 1976.
     
  13. chee-to

    chee-to Member

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    Mod-64 no dash S&W
    a. .38
    b. 4" tapered
    c. square
    e. fixed
    f. D5254**
    g. Mod-64 no dash
     
  14. LA Rondo

    LA Rondo Member

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    It's not really the subject of this thread, but I throw it in anyways.

    Somebody has a sig line on an other forum.
    Ever since I read it, I can't forget it. It goes like this:

    "A hit with a .22 beats a miss with a .44"
     
  15. Catalina25

    Catalina25 Member

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    Hey guys and gals I'd like to play the dating game, but all I've got to show is what I've just picked up at gunbroker.com item # 103306899. I would have brought a picture over to here but brother I ain't got a clue. TKM
     
  16. Old Fuff

    Old Fuff Member

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    Gee, how do you expect us to get a clue.... :confused:

    But this is The High Road. ;)

    I predict that you will receive a Smith & Wesson .38 1905 Hand Ejector, 4th. Change also known as the Military & Police.

    The 4th Change variant was made between 1915 and 1942, within a serial number range running from 241,704 to 999,999. I suspect the serial number (located on the bottom of the butt)of your gun is 490,75x, so it was likely made durring the middle 1920's. The stocks are post-WW2 replacements, and you might find that its been reblued. 6-shot, chambered in .38 Special, and has a 4 inch barrel.

    If this doesn't turn out to be right, come back... :)
     
  17. JustinL

    JustinL Member

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    Just ouf of curiosity

    1. When did S&W switch from the lazy to upright ampersand?
    2. When did they change from the flat-latch to the current cylinder release?
     
  18. avan47

    avan47 Member

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    shade00, You got the Mod. 19 about right, but I purchased the Mod 36 prior to Nov of 72. I don't know the exact date.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 27, 2008
  19. Catalina25

    Catalina25 Member

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    Old Fuff I thank you much. There are those you may read and post and other who should just read. Guess where I fit in. So Fuff obviously this is a gun with some years but should be safe with standard .38's right? I'll use the March method to give this gun the once over as it's worked well for me in the past. And if you should get the chance might I get some info on another of my K- frames it's a 10, 2inch SB blue serial # 2D76xxx Thanks again TKM
     
  20. glock56534

    glock56534 Member

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    a) .38 S&W Special
    b) 4" Bull
    c) Square
    d) 6
    e) fixed rear and front blade
    f) S/N: 5D932XX
    g) Model 10-8

    It has other numbers on the arm of the crane C9 and 45469. I don't know what these numbers are.
     
  21. Old Fuff

    Old Fuff Member

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    Catalina25:

    If it passes the March test it should be safe to shoot. Heat treated cylinders became available at serial number 316,648 - give or take. Plus-P loads won't blow it up, but the old timer will loosen up pretty quick, and repair parts don't grow on trees.
     
  22. Old Fuff

    Old Fuff Member

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    glock56534:

    S/N: 5D932XX: was made in 1979

    The other numbers behind the yoke/crane are assembly numbers and manufacturing codes intended to make sure the right parts get put together after they were blued or plated.
     
  23. Brian Williams

    Brian Williams Moderator Emeritus

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    avan47
    your 36 was made 71-72


    chee-to

    Mod-64 no dash S&W
    a. .38
    b. 4" tapered
    c. square
    e. fixed
    f. D5254**
    g. Mod-64 no dash


    1973-74

    Catalina25
    Model 10
    2d76xxx
    1977



    glock56534

    a) .38 S&W Special
    b) 4" Bull
    c) Square
    d) 6
    e) fixed rear and front blade
    f) S/N: 5D932XX
    g) Model 10-8

    1979
     
  24. chee-to

    chee-to Member

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    Thanks for the info Brian....
     
  25. Catalina25

    Catalina25 Member

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    Old Fuff once again I thank you for the info. I think I'll keep that one as a range gun. I've others more modern for the other things.
    Brian Williams thanks to you too for dating my minty two inch ten. That one will stay in the safe for a while longer.
    A word here if you don't mind;
    Though my I.D. may say I'm a member from only the beginning of the year the truth is I've been viewing from the shadows for much longer. I may spend most of my time here and over at shotgun but I do visit the other forums, especially those at the top of the home page. So I'd like to give a thank you to all of you that are generous with your knowledge. With that said and not to preach I do believe that when keep the education and sharing of information and ideas up, and the rhetoric down, we are clearly at our best. But not only here but out on the streets as well. What we say and how we act directly affects those of the non shooting community and their view towards us. And again thanks to all. Be Cool, Be safe TKM
     

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