Identity and Date of Manufacture of S&W Revolvers

reaching out to the Old Fuff

Old Fuff back on page three you took a look at an older Model of 1905 Hand Ejector 4th change. I just wanted to say that although I have yet to take possession of this revolver I do a have the serial number. You sir were spot on accurate. And again thanks. But if I may...ask...what exactly was it that you saw in the picture that got you to land on the mark? I'd really would like to know if you'd like to share. There is also this, the seller insists that the gun is a pre-57 Model 10 and not a Model of 1905. This confuses me, weren't Model 10's before 1957 considered M&P's. Or at least to be a Model 10 shouldn't it be post WW2 with a C prefix on the serial number?
Here in New York handguns are only for those who are licensed. We need documents issued by county police or sheriff departments to purchase handguns. All the information from all parties has to be accurate. So Old Fuff or anyone else who might like to chime in I could use a little help on the issue of what this gun's exact model is and how to convince the seller of that.
Now to keep true to this thread I've got:
Model 10
3" barrel
RB
AHE514X
Here is the thing, how is it that the barrel and cylinder are a different blue from the frame? I've got a 2" 9D starting the serial number that is similar in that way but just the barrel. Be Cool, Be Safe TKM
 
Need Help Determining The Age Etc. Of This Revolver

Hello all. This will be my first post and it is in search of information pertaining to .38 Special that I inherited from my father. I will list the information requested in the first post of this thread.
A.) .38 CTG
B.) 3"
C.) ROUND WOOD.
D.) 6
E.) FIXED FRONT
F.) V1516XX
G.) MODEL 10?
It is nickel plated. Under the fixed front sight appears to be the word police and out side of the front sight appears to be Dept. The plating makes it difficult to read but also on the top of the barrel appears DEC 23 OR 25, 14. If anyone can help with information on this revolver it would be greatly appreciated.
 
Last edited:
Victory Model DOB

I picked up a Smith Victory Model last night

1. 38 Special
2. 5 inch
3. Square butt wood
4. Fixed half moon
5. V6009xx
6. Victory model/Model 10

Parkerized finish
 
Old Fuff back on page three you took a look at an older Model of 1905 Hand Ejector 4th change. I just wanted to say that although I have yet to take possession of this revolver I do a have the serial number. You sir were spot on accurate. And again thanks. But if I may...ask...what exactly was it that you saw in the picture that got you to land on the mark? I'd really would like to know if you'd like to share. There is also this, the seller insists that the gun is a pre-57 Model 10 and not a Model of 1905. This confuses me, weren't Model 10's before 1957 considered M&P's. Or at least to be a Model 10 shouldn't it be post WW2 with a C prefix on the serial number?
Click to expand...

I cheated. Using the lot number you posted I went and looked at Gunbrokers myself and did a search. The information on a tag (as I remember it) gave me the serial number. From that I could deduce the approximate date it was made.

While the gun was obviously pre-war, the style of the stocks were post-war, and the picture seemed to show that the gun had been reblued. That included the hammer and trigger that should have been color case-hardened.

A pre-model 10 would have been one manufactured from 1946 to 1957. That’s when Smith & Wesson introduced model numbers for the benefit of their early-day computers. Pre-war revolvers are generally identified as .38 Military & Police; 1905 Hand Ejector, Change (whatever). However these names, for the most part, were created by researchers, collectors and book authors – not the factory.
 
Can you look up the manufacture date on a Smith:

Model 36, 2", blue, five shot. Serial number 6115xx.

Thanks!
 
I think I have mine down to a 70-72 production year from another thread but wanted to make sure. A Google link brought me here earlier today and I've decided to stay. Great site, you guys are too cool!

a) 357 Magnum
b) 6" barrel
c) Square butt
d) 6 shot
e) Adjustable rear
f) N15446
g) 28-2

pix560071500.jpg

pix560071546.jpg

pix560071593.jpg

Just bought it through GunBroker, broken rear sight but I've got another one on the way. Both still in transit. :(
 
Thanks Old Fuff, As my father use to say that's not cheating it's using your head for something other than a hat rack, true enough. After reading your reply I could not help but go back and look for myself, sure enough there it was out in plain sight. TKM

Challenger T/A very cool N frame.
 
Morgan - Can't be precise, but probably 1968 from the book's range.

ChallengerT/A - I would estimate 1970 as the likely year. If you bought the whole sight assembly, it won't match exactly unless you got one off of another Model 28 - the finish was unique (it will work however). It also needs to have come off another 4" or 6" N-frame gun for the blade height to be correct and work. Lastly, if you were planning on installing the sight blade into your existing sight assembly, you need a "rebuild kit" with a new windage screw and kit. They are staked together and break apart on disassembly. It is also easy to loose the indexing plunger and spring on disassembly - great care needs to be taken to avoid that, also.
 
Thanks kamerer. It is just the blade that I have coming and I can also get the blade with the screw or the whole assembly as needed. My understanding on the finish is the 28's were sandblasted, the 27's were checkered and others were ribbed. Actually I love detail work like this! Thanks for the help and thanks Catalina25 for the kind words!
 
ChallengerT/A: Here is a good site with a diagram and some basic instructions (go about 1/4 the way down the page to the post by 500 magnumNut):

http://smith-wessonforum.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/530103904/m/875107028/p/3

The specialized tools aren't entirely necessary, just an appropriate sized punch and some tiny needle-nose or tweezers will work. You need both a new screw and nut, the plunger and spring are of course re-usable. If you have a question or get into trouble or something, email me or pm me and I can describe in more detail. I had a 1978 vintage 4" Patrolman I know regret selling. Funny how that is always the case.
 
kamerer. Thanks loads for the link! The reason that I went back to a 28 was because I had one that I loved in the mid-late 70's. After target grips, hammer, trigger and a gunsmith friend showing me how to polish the action I couldn't have wanted any thing better except I always wanted a 6" instead of the 4" barrel.
 
Here we go with another addition, thanks a bunch =]

a) .357 Magnum
b) 6" barrel
c) Square butt
f) S2732XX
g) 28-2
 
dob help also

Have a Mod 10(38 Spec) with 9D65xxx and a Mod 19 (357)with K345xxx. Both have 4" brls. The 10 is a heavy Brl Round Butt, and may be rare the 19 a square butt. My Standard Catalog of Smith and Wesson is in the mail but not here yet, Thanx, Tom in Fl. USA both are 6 shooters thanx, Tom in Fla. USA
 
BamaSam: The V at the beginning of the serial means the revolver was likely a Victory model, much like mrhockey's. These were produced between 1942 and 1945.

mrhockey: 1942-1945.

MADDOG: Hard to tell, but best guess for me is 2003-2004.

zplug123: Somewhere between 1966-1967.

ptrumble1: Your model 10 was likely produced in 1982. Your model 19 was likely built in 1958.
 
Thanks For Your Help Shade

Just wanted to say thanks for your help. I will try to post some pics later.
 
.32/20 S&W Hand Ejector Birth Year?

Anybody have a S&W serial number guide handy and can tell me what year serial number 25,1XX (.32/20) would have left the factory?

I missed this sticky when I originally posted. :)

Thanks.
 
Highway Patrolman

a) caliber - 357 Magnum
b) bbl length (from cylinder to muzzle) 6 inch
c) grips shape (round or square) Square
d) number of shots/cylinder bores 6
e) type of sights. Adjustable
f) serial number S27982x
g) Model number if it is under the crane. Mod 28-2
 
New guy with model 10

Hi folks,
Just found this forum. Looks interesting. Here is my SW bid. Thanks,
A. 38
B. 4"
C. square
D.6
E.Fixed
F. 333889
G. Model 10? Not marked that I can find

Thanks in advance
Can I ocassionaly shoot plus P in this gun?
 
a) 32 Long
b) 4"
c) round black grips
d) 6
e) fixed
f) 338794
g) N/A


a) 32 S&W Long
b) 4 "
c) could be called either rounded or square
d) 6
e) Fixed
f) 682217
g) Mod-31
 
Wiljen: 1966-67.

timburn: We will need more information to narrow down the model, but my guess is a .38 Hand Ejector, also called a M&P. Tell us what other markings are on the gun. The best I can do if it is an M&P is 1915-1942. :( Serial # 241704 started in 1915, while 700000 ended in 1942. Of course, who knows when these old S&Ws were actually made (as Old Fuff will attest).

trane fan: A .32 Hand Ejector, 3rd Model with that serial would be somewhere between 1917-1942. Your Mod. 31 was produced sometime between 1957 and 1960. The serial range I am working with narrows it to 1946-1960, but S&W did not give its gun Model #s until 1957, so you're looking at the tail end of that range.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

A
  • Locked
S&W 38 special identification help
Replies
5
Views
366
DPris
D
B
  • Locked
S&W Model 29-3 markings
Replies
3
Views
1K
belercous
B
Dudemeister
  • Locked
S&W Model 57
2
Replies
48
Views
3K
vmr357
vmr357
T
  • Locked
Questions about S&W Model 10-6
Replies
9
Views
720
GaryP
G
S
  • Locked
S&W Model 36 Manufacture Date:
Replies
4
Views
440
Brian Williams
Brian Williams
Back
Top