I'm having an issue with a Redhawk.

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SunnySlopes

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I bought a used 44 mag Redhawk. It's the 4th I've owned.

The issue is that with reloads, the cylinder binds up in rotation after it heats up. It doesn't do it with factory ammo. Just reloads.

I initially used pre fired brass and after I discovered the issue, made sure I seated the primers especially carefully. It didn't help.

So then I used only new, unfired brass. It still binds.

I have a 3 screw Super Blackhawk and never had that problem. Never had the problem with my other Redhawks and Super Redhawk.

I have two S&W 29-2 revolvers and never had that problem.

I haven't measured the gap yet, but maybe the gap between the cylinder and breech face is less than it should be?

Suggestions?

If it's an issue with the cylinder to breech face gap too narrow, how is that remedied?
 
Measure the gap. Then tell us, and maybe a simple solution. Also, how many rounds before the binding happens? And, what are your reloads? Factory level, or "Ruger-only"?
 
I don't have the tools necessary to measure the gap. I found my feeler gauge (in my guitar toolbox; of course, the last place I looked) but they don't go that big.

Usually around the second cylinder full. I will have fired maybe six or seven rounds before it happens.

My reloads are very light. I use the same reloads I use for my Ruger 3 screw and P&R S&W 29s. 44 special level.
 
Are the primers protruding above the case head after firing? Light loads may not fully reseat the primers.

High spots on the cylinder face can be removed with a file or turned off in a lathe.

This is what I'm guessing. I'm also guessing there are some high spots on the breech face since I fire those same loads in my above named revolvers with no issues.

I guess I'll contact Ruger and see if they can fix the issue. I'm not the original owner so I doubt there's any warranty.
 
One does not need to be the original owner for warranty work from Ruger (bless them). Unless they determine it was not the original cylinder.
How thick do your feeler gauges go? If the gap is more than .012", there is a real problem. Or, if you meant "not that small", the opposite problem. Kinda interested here.
 
I don't have the tools necessary to measure the gap. I found my feeler gauge (in my guitar toolbox; of course, the last place I looked) but they don't go that big.

Use guitar strings. Typically high E strings are in the right range (depending on your string weights) for B/C gaps. Yeah it's not perfect, but it might help.

You need to measure the B/C gap with the chambers filled with the troublesome ammo. Be careful.
 
I’ll come from a different direction, since we don’t know much about your loading, except you said it’s “light loads,” but could there be something in your process that’s a contributing factor? Or the brass? Or the primers?
 
Are the primers protruding above the case head after firing? Light loads may not fully reseat the primers.
+1 I sure seen that problem with a genuine Colt SAA .44-40 I had for a while. I bought a box of factory (I don't remember the brand) "cowboy" ammo for it, and that stuff was so light the backed out primers would tie the cylinder up tight after 2 or 3 shots. I cured the problem with the first few handloads I ran through it - they were just a little bit "hotter" than those factory "cowboy" loads. My handloads, while still fairly "light," were hot enough to reseat the primers - problem solved.:)
 
Are you crimping properly? I've found with insufficient removal of the bell, and/or bulged seated brass, that the cartridges wouldn't want to go fully into the cylinder. Once I got it shut and fired the first round it got better though, in that case though.
 
My reloads are very light.
That could be your problem. If loads aren't sufficiently stout to cause the cases to expand and seal rapidly against the cylinder walls the powder residue, bullet lube (if using cast bullets), and un-burned powder can blow by causing friction so the case isn't able to slip forward out of contact with the recoil shield after firing. If this is the case you'll find the cylinder getting harder to turn with each successive shot of the six but once you re-load the cylinder will turn more easily for the first couple of shots than it did for the last couple of shots from the previous cylinder. If your fired brass is unusually dirty try bumping up the powder charge a bit and see if the problem goes away.
 
One does not need to be the original owner for warranty work from Ruger (bless them). Unless they determine it was not the original cylinder.
How thick do your feeler gauges go? If the gap is more than .012", there is a real problem. Or, if you meant "not that small", the opposite problem. Kinda interested here.

With new unfired factory ammo in the gun, I cannot get a .005 inch feeler gauge underneath the round directly underneath the hammer, nor can I get it underneath the round at the 1:00 position. And the .005 feeler gauge is the thinnest one I've got.

It's going back to Ruger.

Thanks to all who answered.
 
Well, I'm glad that Ruger will have a go at it. But you were using the feeler gauge at the wrong spot. Should be between the cylinder face and the barrel.

8 posts above yours:

You need to measure the B/C gap with the chambers filled with the troublesome ammo.

However, I can't get my thinnest gauge (.005 inch) between the barrel and cylinder face either.

It's going back.
 
8 posts above yours:



However, I can't get my thinnest gauge (.005 inch) between the barrel and cylinder face either.

It's going back.
Ruger could probably adjust the gaps but won't be testing your reloads, If your previous Redhawks in 44 worked okay with the same load, then you are probably right to send it in. Also have them check the forcing cone cut.
 
This is almost certainly the answer. In the OP's shoes I would try some midrange handloads before sending the gun off.

Any Redhawk that cannot reliably fire 44 special loads is not acceptable. Every 44 I own (except this one), and every 44 I've ever owned, has been able to fire my favorite load, viz. 240 grain swc ahead of 7 grains Unique.
 
Ruger could probably adjust the gaps but won't be testing your reloads, If your previous Redhawks in 44 worked okay with the same load, then you are probably right to send it in. Also have them check the forcing cone cut.

Yeah, I don't need them to test my reloads. My reloads are fine. They work fine in any of the other 4 44 magnums I own. They worked fine in the sizeable number of other 44s I've owned.

Ruger needs to fix my Redhawk. If they can't, I'll sell it. I'll not own a 44 which cannot handle 44 special velocity loads.
 
Yeah, I don't need them to test my reloads. My reloads are fine. They work fine in any of the other 4 44 magnums I own. They worked fine in the sizeable number of other 44s I've owned.

Ruger needs to fix my Redhawk. If they can't, I'll sell it. I'll not own a 44 which cannot handle 44 special velocity loads.
A gun that Ruger can't fix needs to be parted out or scrapped or at least sold with full disclosure.
 
240 grain swc ahead of 7 grains Unique
If in a 44 special case, not a light load. In mag brass, still ok. Can't hurt to send it back.

Had brass not slide back into the chamber , after firing, as the cylinder turned, jamming the gun. I was FL sizing with the RCBS die set with a nickel between die and shell holder. The hot 38 spec expanded the case to the cylinder, normal, causing the problem. FL sizing correctly solved the problem.

I still use the nickel spacer to set fl dies for target loads. This removes some slop in the chamber for better accuracy. Just my way of thinking, no proof. 38 spec or 45 acp. The 9mm gets fully sized.
 
A gun that Ruger can't fix needs to be parted out or scrapped or at least sold with full disclosure.
Lemme forward that thought to the guy who sold me the gun.

But, yeah, you're right. "For sale. Ruger 44 mag Redhawk. Shot little. But must be used only maximum loads. Otherwise it locks up tight as a drum."

I'm confident Ruger can fix it, though.
 
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