I have a Norinco sks that I really enjoy, but I want to increase its durability. The stock is scratched and dented, but other than that, it's in fantastic shape. Can I degrease the stock and simply apply some spray on poly? Are their any other parts I can swap to make it more rugged? Thanks -Adam
Increasing SKS durability
- Thread starter Agoetz
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Maj Dad
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You can tumble a rock in abrasive media & shine it up, but it's still a rock. You can gussie up an SKS with shiny stocks, folding stocks, spiffy accouterments, and it's still a rock: hard to improve on... 
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
+1
The SKS was designed from the get-go to be Chinese peasant proof while standing waste deep in a snow drift or rice paddy.
And they are.
The only thing more durable then a Chinese SKS is a Chinese Harbor Freight 100 pound anvil.
BTW: Please Do Not spray it with polyurethane clear coat!!!
It will be scratched before you get done washing your hands after spraying it.
Rub it out with boiled linseed oil or tung-oil.
Spray finish is not at all as durable as an SKS with no finish.
rc
The SKS was designed from the get-go to be Chinese peasant proof while standing waste deep in a snow drift or rice paddy.
And they are.
The only thing more durable then a Chinese SKS is a Chinese Harbor Freight 100 pound anvil.
BTW: Please Do Not spray it with polyurethane clear coat!!!
It will be scratched before you get done washing your hands after spraying it.
Rub it out with boiled linseed oil or tung-oil.
Spray finish is not at all as durable as an SKS with no finish.
rc
bainter1212
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RCmodel is, of course, correct. The SKS is about the most durable semi auto you could hope for. They were built to continue cycling when the temps get down to 40 below and even colder. That's why it throws the casings 10 yds to the right.
The only add-on that I know that is supposed to increase the life, are those little buffers you can buy that go behind the recoil spring. Supposed to decrease wear from the bolt cover getting slammed repeatedly. Even so, that would take many thousands of rounds to wear the thing out.
My Norinco has a varnished stock. If yours is beat up, just slather it with another couple of coats of varnish. That will keep out the rain.
The only add-on that I know that is supposed to increase the life, are those little buffers you can buy that go behind the recoil spring. Supposed to decrease wear from the bolt cover getting slammed repeatedly. Even so, that would take many thousands of rounds to wear the thing out.
My Norinco has a varnished stock. If yours is beat up, just slather it with another couple of coats of varnish. That will keep out the rain.
il.bill
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Sheepdog1968
Member
If you like firearms and the written language read some of Jeff Cooper or Peter Capsticks work. It is well written.
jcwit
member
Many wood finishes are more durable that BLO, LinSpeed, Tru-Oil, and MinWax Antique come to mind first.
rcmodel said it best. For reliabilty and ease of field stripping, it's hard to beat an SKS rifle. No little parts to get lost, no tricks, etc. They start developing problems with functioning and reliability with modifications. The more mods, the more issues they have. Plastic mags, improperly fitted stocks, receiver mounted scopes, etc. all lead to claims of "this thing is junk".
I have several and they're all slightly modified to suit me. They have our finish on them of course, twenty round fixed box mags and longer stocks. Be carefull with aftermarket stocks. If they're to long between the rear lock up and the front lock up area, the rifle can pop out of the stock during firing. If they're to thick in the trigger guard area, the trigger unit won't lock in properly and can pop out. That's why the original stock has the spring in it. They make them thin enough to make sure they ALL fit but have the spring to take up the slack.
Yes, mine all have shock buffers in them. All of my assorted non-politically correct rifles do. However, that will be something that gets removed in the even of (insert favorite bad scenario here). Yes, they absorb the shock of the bolt hitting the end of the travel. Yes, they quiet down the metallic rap. But they do eventually come apart and I don't want rubber/plastic parts floating around inside the action.
You can paint an SKS stock but will have a major job of getting all of the oil out of the wood first. I've heard of soaking them with oven cleaner, heating them, pressure washing them, etc. All of those can affect the size of the stock and cause fitting problems later on. It's easier to just buy a new stock. Choates usually fit pretty good but they're kind of heavy. If all you want to do is increases it's reliabilty, do a full take down and make sure all of the parts are clean and free of Cosmolene. Keep yer powder dry, Mac.
Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All.
Mac's Shootin' Irons
http://www.shootiniron.com
I have several and they're all slightly modified to suit me. They have our finish on them of course, twenty round fixed box mags and longer stocks. Be carefull with aftermarket stocks. If they're to long between the rear lock up and the front lock up area, the rifle can pop out of the stock during firing. If they're to thick in the trigger guard area, the trigger unit won't lock in properly and can pop out. That's why the original stock has the spring in it. They make them thin enough to make sure they ALL fit but have the spring to take up the slack.
Yes, mine all have shock buffers in them. All of my assorted non-politically correct rifles do. However, that will be something that gets removed in the even of (insert favorite bad scenario here). Yes, they absorb the shock of the bolt hitting the end of the travel. Yes, they quiet down the metallic rap. But they do eventually come apart and I don't want rubber/plastic parts floating around inside the action.
You can paint an SKS stock but will have a major job of getting all of the oil out of the wood first. I've heard of soaking them with oven cleaner, heating them, pressure washing them, etc. All of those can affect the size of the stock and cause fitting problems later on. It's easier to just buy a new stock. Choates usually fit pretty good but they're kind of heavy. If all you want to do is increases it's reliabilty, do a full take down and make sure all of the parts are clean and free of Cosmolene. Keep yer powder dry, Mac.
Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All.
Mac's Shootin' Irons
http://www.shootiniron.com
blaisenguns
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As far as durability of a firearm finish I am really happy with DuraCoat. I have used it on a bunch of guns, and they still look good. I believe Cerokoat is allegedly more durable, but I have yet to try it. I don't know how this gun behaves yet, because I haven't shot it since before I undertook this project.
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blaisenguns
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Yeah, but if you paint the rock camo, then it is a "tactical" rock
Joe the Redneck
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Currently using Lin-Speed oil on mine with good results. A nice satin finish.
LeonCarr
Member
Durability Issues?
Replace the stock with a Synthetic (I like the Choate or Butler Creek for the SKS) and the SKS will last literally forever if you use non corrosive ammo.
Just my .02,
LeonCarr
Replace the stock with a Synthetic (I like the Choate or Butler Creek for the SKS) and the SKS will last literally forever if you use non corrosive ammo.
Just my .02,
LeonCarr
Ifishsum
Member
I degreased and lightly sanded my Yugo 59/66 stock, then rubbed a few coats of Tru-Oil over it. I purposely did not want to make it look new; I didn't try to sand all the dents and dings out - just wanted a better finish over what I had. It turned out quite nicely, and it has proven to be a pretty tough finish.
Speedo66
Member
I stripped my Norinco stock and refinished it with MinWax walnut polyurethane stain. After several coats, taking it down with fine steel wool after each coat, it had a nice, flat, durable, walnut looking finish.
Collectors may be horrified, but there were 50 bazillion made, and this one is mine. I couldn't stand the shiny orange looking original color, I'm happy with it now.
Collectors may be horrified, but there were 50 bazillion made, and this one is mine. I couldn't stand the shiny orange looking original color, I'm happy with it now.
funnelcake
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- Oct 27, 2007
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- 321
Use Minwax Antique Furniture Refinisher to strip the stock. Works great & is actually good for the wood. If it's a dense grain hardwood, use one of the alcohol-based stains from Brownells. Finish as noted above with multiple coats of BLO and/ or pure Tung Oil.
Funnel
Funnel
plateshooter
Member
If you really want to paint the stock, I suggest checking out Krylon truck bed liner. That stuff is pretty rugged. I have used it on some wood, and lots of synthetic stocks for different purposes. If you do scratch it, it is easy to touch up. I have been happy with the results.
Where did you guys buy a Norinco with a decent wood stock? I bought two, both of them had wood like you would find in a pallet. Only the pallet wood was of higher quality. Wood was soft, no visible grain, 12" pull, it was like a bad Daisy. Put plastic, 14" pull stocks on both of them.
firesky101
Member
If you have a line on $150 norinco sks's I will take 10. Give me a couple weeks to sell some things and I will take 100.
dprice3844444
member
got my 2 unfired red plastic stocks
MW3840
Member
I replaced the 2 I own with Ram-Line stocks, one in a carbine version, the other with a pistol grip stock.
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