Is S & W 915 9 mm worth to buy?

I am going to buy a S & W 915 9 mm or a similar gun and like to know if it is worth to buy. I only saw an article which said his 915 ‘s decocker has problem but didn’t see any reply message talk about how to fix the problem. I only can pay total about $400 include tax, FFL Transfer and shipping, so I can’t concern other expensive pistol. The reason I want to buy it now because I worry about most modern handguns ( more than 10 rounds) will be banned soon but hope it is not happened.
Thanks!

 

How much are you paying?

It better be in especially good condition if you'll be out $400 by the dust settles.

I got a couple (with a lot of cosmetic wear) for less than $250 just last year.

I like the 915.

No function problems at all.
Likes to fit in holsters designed for full-size double-stack SIG pistols.

 

Now I only can buy this kind of cheap gun from online , so I like to make sure
it has no function problems. it is difficult to find one is below $320.

 

I sold one bought in 1993, but still NIB with papers, etc for $400 right before Christmas FTF.

 

If I recall, this was Smith and Wesson's least expensive model back in the '90s. My brother was in the police academy and purchased one new for less than $400.... Again, if I recall correctly.

 

S&w 915

The 915 was the "entry level" Smith DA/SA 9mm, if memory serves me it came out in the 90's.....I started shooting Smith 9's back in the 70's when the mod 59 came out, then Smith went thru several generations of the 59, 5904, etc.....the 915 is a good serviceable pistol, my agency had hundreds of them (5906 & 04's) in service at one time and they performed very well. Been thru the Smith & Wesson armorers school for these pistols and know what makes them tick.....any of the Smith 9mm's will make you a good gun.

 

I searched all websides and only found three 915 in gunbroker around $330, some compaies sold or not available. the price from $350-$425.
I remember yesterday gunbroker still had more than 5-6. Does these sell pretty fast? I haven't got my local FFL dealer information yet and should got tonight, Don't know if I place order tomorrow will be too late? This is my first time buy gun from internet becasue I bought all my guns from show or local store. Is gunbroker good webside?
I like to know should i submit FFL dealer ID # to seller when I buy? or only name , address and phone #? because there was one dealer refused to give me when I asked. He said he will cantact seller by him self and never give this # to customer.

 

Everything sells pretty fast right now.

There were at least 30 of them - all under $250 - on Gunbroker a few weeks ago.

If there is something gun-related you really NEED, now is the time to buy it if you think you won't be able to ever get it in the future.

Now is NOT the time to buy anything that you merely want for the sake of collecting. Once the dust settles, prices on everything are going to crash, because Bubba will be spent-out.

 

I just placed the order, $330.00, I like it, but a little wear and old, I am waiting

the seller to contact me.

 

The way it normally works when you buy online is that the seller will contact you and tell you what they need from your FFL. You normally then call your FFL and give the contact information of the seller to them. The FFL will call the seller and they will exchange information.

 

questions,
1) Can I just let seller to charge on my credit card? He can charge gun fee + tax ( NC 6.7%) + shipping. If I send a personal check to him should take about 2-3days. Can I claim if I was overcharged or it is difficult?
2) Who will give the gun receipt to me ? Seller or FFL dealer? because I need gun's serial number show on the receipt.

sorry , I don't have any experience to buy online. this is first time.

 

When you buy on gun broker, it is up to the seller how they will accept payment. Some will take credit cards, some only checks. Most will list in the sale what method of payments they accept. If they do not take credit cards, the safest alternative is a post office money order. I think you need to pay for those in cash at the post office, but it's much better than a personal check, and you shouldn't have to wait for it to clear. https://www.usps.com/shop/money-orders.htm

The seller should give you the receipt. Your FFL is only concerned with the transfer. You will have already paid for the gun by the time the FFL receives it, it will already be your property. The FFL's role is to just transfer legal possession of it to you. Most of the time the FFL will have no idea what you paid for it. If the FFL charges sales tax, it should only be sales tax on his transfer fee.

Normally this is what I do. I call, or stop by, or sometimes email an FFL. I will tell them I am interested in buying something online and I ask if they do transfers, and how much, and if there are any additional fees they charge. I also ask about their policy of accepting shipments from non-FFLs. If they are cooperative, and if their priceis fair, I will buy the item online. If its an auction, like gunbroker, once I 'win' the auction, the seller usually sends an email with instructions. If I don't see an email in an hour or so (given normal business hours), I will call. I will then CALL the FFL to tell them I have purchased something online, I plan to use them to do the transfer. I communicate to them the instructions that the seller has given me. If I have an email of the instructions from the seller I will offer to forward it to them.

 

I bought a 915 when they first came out in the 90's right after the 94 AWB/mag ban. It was part of S&W "Value" series. The pistol was reliable but the sights were not to POI, and I just didn't like the feel of the pistol so I sold it. Seemed like a decent gun, but I wouldn't pay too much for it.

 

hAKron,

Thank you for your message. I am interested Post Office money order because
I never knew it can be replaceable if lost . I already sent a personal check to the company so I think this time was too late. If I still want to use money order, I need to buy it and send to them again, then ask they stop cashing my person check when received and send the P-check back to me , the company may not wants to do that. I will used next time.
I already e-mailed to the FFL dealer because they only accept transfer request
by e-mail. I haven't got reply.

Thanks!

 

My gun company already recieved my personal check .Yesterday I called a FFL
dealer who will do transfer to fax their license to gun company. Don't
know if the company needs to wait until cash my check then they can ship.
I have another question about magazine, if any magazine need FFL dealer to do transfer or only high capacity magazine needs ( more than 10 r?)

 

If you are just buying a magazine by itself, and you don't live in a state that restricts magazine capacity, then you can just have it shipped to your house. Generally just the lower receiver (commonly referred to as the frame when you are talking hand guns) is the 'firearm', all of the other parts are just parts and are not under any sort of transfer restrictions.

 

Does this gun have two kind of magazines? 17 R and 15 R.? The one I bought is 15 R but I haven't received yet , but I saw another one 17 R which shows on the same website, I couldn't find confirmed information from other websites.

 

From what I understand, the factory magazines are 15 rounds, however there are 3rd party 17 round magazines made by Mecgar that are supposed to work well.

 

I had one for about ten years - wish I hadn't sold it now - and never had any problems with it.

 

Received the 915 . the seller sent to me without a box and any paperwork only with a business card. The transfer dealer didn’t knew who they should notify until I called them.
The gun looks like fine just old , I tested it on a range. only has one question,
If the decocker is in “ safe” position when I pull and release the slide. the hammer will be droped down once ( not just decocked, ) and I can shoot it by double action only . but if the decocker is in “ fire” position when I pull and release the slide, the hammer will be cocked and I can shoot it by single action only . I hope this is normal because I had another 9mm Ruger 89 before and I recalled it may was different. The double action is heavy and I only like single action . The magazine is hard also and I did my best and only pushed 13 rounds ( should be 15)
the transfer dealer told me they think it was a police gun because no box, carry a lot but didn't shoot a lot.

 

Congrats on your 915. S&W 3rd Gen pistols are very reliable and well respected side arms in the US. Sounds like you got an Ok deal and you've got a pistol that should serve you well for a lifetime if you care for it properly.

Your safety sounds like it is working like it should.

When the safety is in the down position it should disconnect the trigger and you should have to push it up to make it fire double action.

If the weapon is in single action mode (slide forward hammer back) when you push the safety down it should "decock" - drop the hammer without firing.

Also a note that your S&W should have a magazine disconnect/safety - that disconnects the trigger whenever there is not a magazine inserted in the gun.

S&W factory mags are either 14 round (early) or 15 round (later). These mags fit the Model 915, 5906, 459, 59 and other similar models. They have black (early) or orange (later) followers made of plastic... Every one I have owned or seen were all made of stainles steel but I have never seen really early 1960-70's factory model 59 mags so they may be different...

Mec-Gar makes some 17rnd mags that are good quality.... if you don't want/don't have the $$$ to pay the asking rate for S&W factory mags.

Do NOT buy any mags mfg'd by USA, Eagle or Pro Mag.

I have sold off all my high cap S&W 3rd Gens over the years because the double stack frame dosen't fit my hand very well... I still own a 908, a 3913 and a CS9... all single stack mid/compact sized 3rd Gens.... Great pistols and I don't ever plan to sell any of these.
Will

 

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The pictures can show my gun was worn in somewhere. The only thing I can do is using "gun blue" in just wore place. I like to know if I should do it or doesn’t make any sense ? How long the “ blue “ can keep ? when do I need to blue it again? One of mine friend said he never blue wore gun because wear shows this gun’s history. He likes this kind of wear.

 

In my mind it is prettier now than it was when it came out of the factory. Nice gun. Enjoy!