Is steel cased ammo safe to use in a bolt action?

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In all of my non-AK guns, I insist on using only brass cased ammo. I know steel casings do not expand and seal the chamber as brass and the steel is very hard on the chamber and extractor of most semi-auto guns. Well, what about bolt actions? Since I'd be operating the bolt/extractor by hand, and I can be more careful than an automated ejection cycle, wouldn't it be a bit gentler to the extractor?

Specifically, I am thinking of getting a .308 bolt action and trying to cut down on ammo costs (for less-serious target shooting) by going with steel casings.
 
Steel cases will cause less problems in a bolt rifle than a gas gun.

Gas guns are more fussy about ammo than a bolt rifle. If you can close the bolt and pull the trigger, the ammo will shoot. If you can pull back on the bolt, the round is going to come out, most of the time.

Don't forget to bring a cleaning rod, to knock the round out of the chamber, just in case.
 
The Eastern Bloc nations used (and still use) steel cased ammo in all their military weapons, bolt and auto. Works great in the bolt action Mosin Nagants. Especially the copper washed steel cased stuff. Used to be real inexpensive surplus.
 
the steel is very hard on the chamber and extractor of most semi-auto guns

Steel cases aren't very hard on the chamber and extractor. There are people on here that have shot thousands of rounds or steel case ammo in ar's with no problems. I believe mgshaggy is a member here who has shot a lot of wolf through m16's and the like.

In any event, don't worry about steel cases in your bolt guns. You don't have to be careful with the ejection but if you want to whatever.
 
Steel cases cause no problems to your guns.

We here in the US have always been spoiled to use brass casings. It does keep the nostalgia though and I prefer them to steel cased (especially if I am reloading). But other than that it does not matter.

;)
 
I bought some Federal XM762D .308 ammo for $14/box. Its lake city brass, 150 gr FMJ, loaded in the lake city plant. Its military issue stuff, looks like high quality. I would expect to get 2 MOA out of it, for the price, not complaining. This is superior to any steel case ammo.
 
Good quality steel cases, in a properly-sized chamber, will not any cause problems for your gun as long as you run it exclusively between cleanings (don't alternate steel and brass without cleaning first). If your chamber is oversized, or the ammo is poor quality, there is an increased risk of blowouts with steel cases because they cannot expand much without breaking. Polymer-coated is better than lacquer, though, as lacquer melts when hot and can form a glue that can make extraction difficult.

You should not shoot brass after shooting steel without cleaning, because steel does not expand and allows fouling to build up in the chamber until it forms a proper seal around the non-expanding steel cases. Brass does expand, however, and this can result in the case becoming stuck in the now-tighter (due to fouling) chamber. The solution is a good cleaning with a patch or chamber brush being used directly on the chamber.

Shooting brass before steel: Fine.

Shooting steel before brass: Bad idea.
 
I hope everyone is rights because I have 500 rounds of silver bear ammo for my stag 2T. I haven't had the chance to shoot it yet and I am afraid of ruining parts in my AR.
 
Shoot the silver bear it works fine in my guns. No signs of excess wear either.

And about the whole lacquer melts idea, why is it always brought up. To anyone that is interested, try and get the lacquer to melt. Use a gas stove, a lighter, anything hot...if you get it to melt I would like to know what did it. I have tried everything and the metal starts to glow before anything happens.
 
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