Is there anything odd with this test reload I did?

[gamestalker]

Don't crimp, don't prime dummy rounds, and don't seat up on the olgive or deeper than necessary.

Use data that is speciific to the bullet you are loading. But if you are having difficulty finding such data for that bullet, the use dial calipers to measure the bullet length and then seat the bullet .308" into the case mouth and you should be good to go.

GS

 

[foxtail207]

Seating instructions are on the back of the Lee data sheet that comes with their die sets. Follow those instructions, and back the top nut out on your first seat. That will make the OAL long. Then slowly, in increments, tighten down the top nut a little and by trial and error push the bullet in more until you reach the required OAL. Use calipers to measure OAL on each "re-seat". The end of the brass will usually fall within the cannalure when it's the right OAL. If you don't have a set of calipers, get one. Harbor Freight has some inexpensive ones, and using one of their coupons makes it even cheaper. It just takes some trials to get it bullet seat right. Make sure the die is tight in the press. When you get the OAL right, you can load away at that setting. You might want to recheck the length on a few as you go thru a big batch.
Good luck and have fun with it.

 

[Still Shooting]

COA Length

I keep a set of pages from SAAMI in my reloading notebook - A 3-ring book that contains:

1- A set of log sheets for my reloading activity,

2 - The SAAMI spec sheet for each of the calibers I reload,

3 - A list by caliber of "Min/Max/Trim To" case lengths,

4 - A spreadsheet with the RCBS, Lyman, Redding, and Hornady shell holder numbers for each caliber/case,

5 - Calibration instructions for my digital scale, and

6 - A list of the overall cartridge lengths at which each bullet by brand/catalog number I load touches the rifling lands of the rifle I load it for.

I still use my reloading manuals (Hornady, Lyman, Nosler, Sierra, and Speer) as a "check reference" before I load. I am loading for 15 rifle calibers, so having this data available at the loading bench makes life easier!

I have used clear plastic adhesive laminating sheets on all of the reference pages to keep them in good shape.

Here is a copy of my "Activity Log" sheet (NOT laminated):

 

[gfanikf]

Foxtail thank you so much. That's exactly what I needed to see laid out. The lee instructions can be a tad sparse at times and sometimes the best thing is having some explain things themselves. I actually do have a set of Cabelas digital calipers.

Still shooting thanks for the tracking sheet and the layout. I think I'll set one up today amd start working from it.

I just have one question with trim to length. What does one do when all your rounds are smaller then the trim to length? Just leave it as is?

Thanks again everyone!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

 

[morcey2]

Foxtail thank you so much. That's exactly what I needed to see laid out. The lee instructions can be a tad sparse at times and sometimes the best thing is having some explain things themselves. I actually do have a set of Cabelas digital calipers.

Still shooting thanks for the tracking sheet and the layout. I think I'll set one up today amd start working from it.

I just have one question with trim to length. What does one do when all your rounds are smaller then the trim to length? Just leave it as is?

Thanks again everyone!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

The first question is how did they get that short? From the burr around the neck on that one, it looks like it was trimmed to that length by someone. I know that a lot of formed cartridges are slightly shorter than spec, like forming 8x56R from 7.62x54R and, while not optimal, it works. That's about a 2mm difference or about 0.075".

How much shorter than 2.484" are they? Was the crimp removed prior to you getting the brass? How much do you trust the person from which you got the brass?

Matt

 

[gfanikf]

The first question is how did they get that short? From the burr around the neck on that one, it looks like it was trimmed to that length by someone. I know that a lot of formed cartridges are slightly shorter than spec, like forming 8x56R from 7.62x54R and, while not optimal, it works. That's about a 2mm difference or about 0.075".

How much shorter than 2.484" are they? Was the crimp removed prior to you getting the brass? How much do you trust the person from which you got the brass?

Matt

I wish I could recall offhand, but some were .020, most were less, none close to the trim limit at all (not like when I measured some of my own once fired). I know they were once fired Lake City, that were tumbled, clean, and the deprimed with the crimp removed. In terms of trust the, found via the CMP forums, the guy shipped before I even sent him the check. Was really nice and even chatted on the phone about the stuff.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

You are checking the length AFTER you resize, right?

 

[GLOOB]

I agree with the others stating to never make a primed dummy round. Pounding out a jacketed rifle bullet can be very difficult. In the least, it will ruin a range day. You don't wanna intentionally create something that might inadvertently do that.

 

[gfanikf]

You are checking the length AFTER you resize, right?

Hmm, I wanna say before and after I resized. Guess I can double check tonight.

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[ArchAngelCD]

Hmm, I wanna say before and after I resized. Guess I can double check tonight.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

The full length resizing is what stretches the brass so you should measure the length after you resize to find out if you need to trim. Measuring before us useless because the resizing is what effects the case length.

 

[JohnM]

Sounds to me like reading a reloading manual is in order.
To understand the steps taken and when and why.

 

[ozo]

This is scary to me.....
Meaning no disrespect, but for your own
safety, I think you need to take a step or two backwards.
You should get your tools in order...so you have them
at hand if needed, and do much, much more reading and
research before running the press.
Have a clear understanding of each step in the process.
Reloading is not rocket science, but there are many facets
involved to make good, safe, and reliable ammo.
Please don't take me wrong, but I don't think you are ready.
Much data to be had for loading is incomplete.
A good manual is still the best, but you MUST use the EXACT
components that are listed....exactly as listed.
From your pics.....
Brass looks bad
Seating looks bad
Primer looks bad
___From your posts.....
Responses look bad...ie.
Don't remember...
Maybe, not sure
Hmmmm, I will check....
Just be safe.....Take it slow.....line up your ducks first.

 

[agd1953]

The scratch on the primer is not the problem with putting a live primer in a dummy round. The problem is that if it gets in with live rounds you may fire the thing and with just the primer in there and no powder it will get stuck in the barrel and when you scratch your head on what may have happened you may try another round and it will hit the bullet stuck in the barrel and you will be history!!!

 

[foxtail207]

A question for Still Shooting...
Ref: "A list of the overall cartridge lengths at which each bullet by brand/catalog number I load touches the rifling lands of the rifle I load it for."

How does one go about measuring the point where the bullet touches the lands?
I've never heard how this is done. Can you offer an explanation, or refer us to a "how to".

 

[Certaindeaf]

Barely neck size and seat the bullet (you want a firm slip fit) in an empty unprimed case long and gently chamber it and then unchamber it. Measure it.

 

[Sport45]

You've been given good advice on the seating depth, case length and primer issue.

I'll add that I go a step further and cross drill the cases of my dummy rounds. That makes identifying them much more obvious. But in truth the only dummy rounds that wind up in my range bag are for the M1. Most of my dummy rounds (without primers) stay at the reloading bench for use in setting up crimp/seating dies.

Leaving a spent primer in a dummy round makes it look like a dud that may still have powder inside.

 

[Andrew Leigh]

To the OP.

I don't think this was mentioned but based on the scuff marks on the case neck it would appear as if you only sized 2/3rd's of the neck (see your second picture). This means that if you are FL sizing brass not fire formed in your rifle that you have not sized the case at all but merely squeezed 2/3rd's of the neck. If you have fire formed brass and were neck sizing then your die was not seated deep enough and you may experience chambering difficulty.

I would strongly encourage you to get a reloading manual (if you do not have one) and to study this at length. Reloading is not a complicated process but it is a critical process which requires attention to detail, lots of checks and balances and an overall respect for safety.

As fellow hand loaders we are concerned for you safety. Take a step backwards and understand the fundamentals first.

Good luck, it wont take long.

PS: Meant to add, is the primer seated below the level of the base of the case? It does not appear so, my primers tend to flatten slightly when seated correctly as it requires extra pressure. I find that primer seating attachments on a press are poor. If you were priming with the press then consider buying a Lee priming tool, they are remarkable bits of kit for their price.