Is this supposed to happen?

[dracphelan]

I just received a Ruger Blackhawk in 45 Colt/ACP. Today at the range I noticed a strange behavior. After firing the pistol, I need to push the trigger slightly forward (or move the hammer slightly back) to open the loading gate. This happens with both 45 Colt and 45 ACP cylinders.
This is the first single action revolver I have owned, so any help is appreciated.

 

[Old Fuff]

No, this is not normal. It sounds as if something is causing the transfer bar to stick or wedge between the frame and hammer. When you either push the trigger forward or pull the hammer backwards the pressure on the transfer bar is relieved.

There is another possibility. Remove the cylinder and notice that on the back of the base pin (the rod the cylinder revolves on) there is a little spring-loaded plunger. Be sure that that plunger isn’t stuck or sticking. Then with the base pin in the forward position, point the muzzle up, cock the hammer, pull the trigger, and see if the problem with the gate persists. If nothing seems to work return the gun to Ruger for warrantee repairs. The turn-around time should be short.

 

[SniperStraz]

I don't believe it is...

... you may want to have this checked out.

 

[Imaginos]

Definitely Not Normal

One problem that appears in Ruger SAs from time to time is the base pin backing out under recoil. This normally makes it impossible to cock the piece due to the plunger Old Fuff mentioned not pressing against the transfer bar. The solution is to replace the factory base pin with a Blue Mountain base pin.

In your case, it sounds like a weak trigger return spring is preventing the transfer bar from dropping out of its slot between the hammer face and the firing pin. Wolf makes spring kits for Blackhawks, and you can buy them from Brownells. Personally, I would call Ruger and describe the problem. they are pretty good about making things right.

 

[dracphelan]

I checked the plunger, it is working fine. I tried calling Ruger, but they are closed til January 2nd. I think I will try the spring kit. I was thinking of ordering one anyways, since I like to have spares.

 

[Old Fuff]

I really didn't think it was the plunger, but it's the first thing you check.

Be aware that if you work on any parts (read that to mean "polish") or replace any parts (read that to mean "springs"), and then return the revolver to Ruger they will, under orders from their lawyers, replace those parts or springs for unaltered stock factory ones, and charge you for them. If you are going to do anything, do it after the gun is returned.

 

[dracphelan]

Be aware that if you work on any parts (read that to mean "polish") or replace any parts (read that to mean "springs"), and then return the revolver to Ruger they will, under orders from their lawyers, replace those parts or springs for unaltered stock factory ones, and charge you for them. If you are going to do anything, do it after the gun is returned.

That is exactly what my plan is. I noticed something else, the transfer bar appears to be out loose and out of alignment:

Again, is this right?
Also, a picture I took and photoshoped today.

 

[Old Fuff]

The transfer bar sitting at a slight angle is not unusual, and it will straighten out quickly when the hammer hits it. What I think may be happening is that the bar is either bent (not probable) or slightly out of tolarance so that when the trigger is pulled and the hammer falls, there is a very slight wedging effect between the frame/firing pin and hammer face that prevents the trigger returning fully forward unless the hammer is slightly lifted. All of this because the transfer bar is attached to the back of the trigger, and if the bar doesn't move the trigger won't either. This is speculation of course, but they will probably cure it by changing in a new transfer bar.