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Just ordered a 9mm Lee Pro 1000... what am I in for?

Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by 1KPerDay, Jul 14, 2017.

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  1. Tilos

    Tilos Member

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    The loadmaster press priming design uses it's own station because it's done on the up stroke in station 2, so it only has 4 stations (1,3,4,5) for dies...not 5.
    Here's a vid of setup of a loadmaster for 45acp, showing priming at about 5min:

    The Pro 1000 primes on the down stroke in station 2, then the case is flared and powder dropped on the up stroke of station 2.
    just sayin'
    :D
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2017
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  2. RussellC

    RussellC Member

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    Yup, I should have stated I meant for pistol rounds, where I put just enough to remove the bell.

    Russellc
     
  3. RussellC

    RussellC Member

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    I assume the newer Lee Auto drum will also work on this contraption? For me it is a lot more consistent than the Pro Powder Disc...

    Russellc
     
  4. RussellC

    RussellC Member

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    Oh, the video shows what looks like 5 stations?

    Russellc
     
  5. Tilos

    Tilos Member

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    Why yes it does, but there's NO DIE in station 2 :what:
    There's no die in station 2 because it primes on the up stroke...leaving only stations 1,3,4,5 with dies...so only 4 usable stations.
    Although some Loadmaster users put a die in station 2 to help center-up the case for priming.
    Done with this, thanks for reading my post,
    :D
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2017
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  6. bds

    bds Member

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    I considered trying the Auto Drum but with most small ball/flake powders I use like Bullseye/Titegroup/W231/HP-38/BE-86/WSF/CFE Pistol/AutoComp, Pro Auto Disk will drop with less than .1 gr variance.

    With this $1 modification, PAD will consistently drop W231/HP-38 down to 2.0 gr and Bullseye down to 1.5 gr and not many powder measures can do that - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/working-diy-micro-auto-disk.741988/

    [​IMG]

    Even with large flake powder like Promo, PAD will drop mostly with .2 gr variance to produce 1" 10 shot groups at 25 yards.

    [​IMG]

    With Alliant's new Sport Pistol, Pro Auto Disk drops with less than .05 gr variance as 10 drops from .30 hole averaged 2.90 to 2.94 gr with most drops at 2.92 to 2.94 gr! I think this was due to smaller than W231/HP-38 granule size with more consistent diameters because Sport Pistol is cut extruded powder like N320 and Vectan Ba 9/9.5/AS - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/new-alliant-sport-pistol.816514/page-5#post-10598431

    [​IMG]
     

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  7. maxxhavoc

    maxxhavoc Member

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    Yep, I converted all of mine. I like the ability to just drop in a pre-set drum that has my go-to load. Makes caliber (or powder) changes even easier.
     
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  8. RussellC

    RussellC Member

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    Agreed. Dont get me wrong, the pro powder disc was a great measure for the money, but the drum takes it a step further in the areas of consistency and ease of adjustment.

    Russellc
     
  9. RussellC

    RussellC Member

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    Yes, I copied thst thread when I first saw it. It also (your mod) fills the hole left by the dropping of their micro adjustible piece. I still have two of the adjustable units and your printoff on the reloading bench! Just never went forward after I got the drum unit.

    Russellc
     
  10. HOWARD J

    HOWARD J Member

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    My primer feed tube was 2 pieces ( still made that way?)
    Primers kept jamming up until I cemented them together
    It was a good machine but not fast enuf when we got an UZI
     
  11. 1KPerDay

    1KPerDay Member

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    I got the mounting plate installed... pretty slick. I have the old style P1K base according to bds' pics and for now I'm just excited to get started so I'm going to let the primers drop into the base and hopefully I can shake them out of the holes in the mounting plate when it fills up too much.

    Stupid question: do I have to use the chain to return the auto disc? I have faith in my spring mounted one on my LCT and I know what charges it throws... any reason why I just couldn't use it?

    Also tell me more about lube.... the manual says line anything that moves with 20w oil but that sounds a little messy. I put some CLP on the ram piston or whatever it's called but I don't really want to get oil near the Zbar or case feeder thing. Someone said graphite? Is it necessary?

    It appears to be indexing properly. I'm going to try to load full progressive but with manual case and bullet feeding for a while. If the priming proves to suck I'll size/decap/prime on the LCT in single stage mode as I really like how it deals with spent primers as well as how positively and easily it primes, and then charge and seat progressively on the P1K. All the talk about priming troubles has me a little gunshy. It'll probably be fine. Pretty cool machine. I love Lee stuff. I just wish they had a better setup for dealing with spent primers. This kinda feels like a sh** where you eat kinda setup. LOL
     
  12. jmorris

    jmorris Member

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    Because the Loadmaster shell plate for 9mm is the same one they use for 40 S&W, the 9mm cases were not centered well enough to prime correctly 100%. I put an extra powder die I had in #2 and solved the problem.

    image.jpeg
     
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  13. jmorris

    jmorris Member

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    The chain is a safety device, like seat belts you don't have to use it.

    You throw a powder charge and measure cannot reset until you lower the ram down enough that you index the press. This makes it quite hard to throw a double charge.

    If you replace it with a spring, you could throw a charge and back the handle up slightly, then down again and throw another. Of coarse you wouldn't do this on purpose but if no one ever did it on accident the chain wouldn't exist nor would any of the other measures with failsafe devices.
     
  14. maxxhavoc

    maxxhavoc Member

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    That's it exactly. The chain does the exact thing as the spring. The difference is that it only does it if you lower the ram all the way. On the turret, not really an issue. With 3 stations going on at the same time, it gets more complicated.

    The chain takes a little effort to get adjusted properly, the spring just works.

    Using the chain, it is almost impossible to get a double charge. If you make a mistake, you get a squib.
    Using the spring, if you make a mistake, you can end up with a shattered gun and mangled hand.

    If you never make a mistake, or if you verify every charge (simple visual check should be fine except for deep cases like 38/357) both work the same.

    My old pro 1000 came with a spring only. I threw a double charge, and happened to notice it. This was before I visually inspected each charge. I ended up playing it safe and breaking down about 300 rounds I had done that session with a kinetic puller just to be sure. There was one more that looked like a double. I paid for the update kit and have used the chain and verified charges since then.

    On the same note, keep the powder hopper full. It can run dry quickly. I got into the habit of filling it every time I load primers for pistol rounds.
     
  15. jmorris

    jmorris Member

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    I really enjoy powder check dies but when all stations are full a light and mirror help seeing down in there.


    image.jpeg
     
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  16. 1KPerDay

    1KPerDay Member

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    I use a light and I do check every charge visually before placing the bullet. I have never had a squib or double charge in over 40,000 rounds on the LCT... but I'll look into the chain setup on the P1K I guess. Thanks!

    Any thoughts on graphite vs oil lube?

    Also if anyone here has the P1K mounted on lee's press plate setup, what do you use to catch completed rounds? the plate mount prevents you from setting a yogurt container or something under the chute... I need something with an extended lip or something.
     
  17. Schwing

    Schwing Member

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    My first press was a Pro 1000. At the time, I had just started a new job making nearly nothing and my wife was laid off. I literally cracked open my piggy bank to buy it. With some very minor modifications, I found it to run very well and exceeded all of my expectations.

    A couple of years later, I started running my brass through it twice. I sized and deprimed my already clean brass on the first round which allowed me to add a powder check die on the second pass. It worked great and, in spite of all the negative things I kept hearing about the Pro 1000, I reloaded many thousands of rounds. I don't recall ever even having to replace a single part on it during those years.

    5 or six years later, our income had nearly quadrupled and I treated myself to a Dillon 650. Now, the Dillon is a superior machine in every way but I also spent close to 2k for the press and accessories. Even so, the Pro1000 still has a spot on my reloading bench. I use it to decap all of my brass before cleaning and it has been set up to load .380 only.

    It is a great press at a great price and is a very good choice for someone who is just starting out or just wants to dip their toes in the water without taking out a second mortgage.
     
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  18. ljnowell

    ljnowell Member

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    Not only has that press served me very well, I now own FOUR of them. I bought the other three from people who said "Lee sold me a junk press and they are garbage." When I brought them home, cleaned them and set them up properly every single one of them runs great. Heck, I even bought a used loadmaster and run it for my 45 ACP bullseye loads. I've made expert classification with that ammo!!

    It's real easy when it comes to a pro1k, make a cover for the primer chute(I actually just cover them in clear packing tape now), keep the primer chute full, and don't beat on it trying to set a world record. They will just pump out the ammo. It's a very simple indexing and priming system, once you learn the ins and outs you can make tons of ammo reliably.

    And thanks for the help in the beginning BDS, I've passed it along ten fold as I've gotten many people started on their pro1ks since.
     
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  19. bds

    bds Member

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    Glad to have helped and congrats on the growing family of Pro 1000s.
    Now there's an elegant solution!
    I use graphite/No 2 pencil lead powder to lube the Pro Auto Disk wiper surface (I smear wiper with lead powder on paper) but rest of Pro 1000 metal-to-metal contact points get lubed with whatever grade motor oil I have on hand. One drop of oil on finger tip to center hex "action" rod will lube the nylon gear for several hundred cycles.
    Even though I have Dillon 650 set up with case feeder, I have several Pro 1000s set up for dedicated calibers. It sure is convenient to just walk up to a press, add primers/powder/brass and start reloading.

    I thought about setting up dedicated 650s for retirement but when Pro 1000s/PADs are dropping powder charges with .1 gr variance for most of my powders (.2 gr for Red Dot/Promo), seat primers below flush (yes, Pro 1000 can do .004"+ below flush with most brand primers), taper crimp with .001" variance and produce OAL variance mostly less than .005" (.003" with resized brass and RMR 115/124 gr FMJ), and resize further down on case base than other brand dies to not require push-through resizing/FCD use, it's hard to contemplate away from Pro 1000.

    FYI, for those who already didn't know, all the test rounds I have used for various load developments and comparison tests posted the past several years (with exception of small numbers loaded on C-H 205 single stage press), have all been loaded on Pro 1000 presses using Lee carbide dies.
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2017
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  20. wanderinwalker

    wanderinwalker Member

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    Wow, I'm late to this party! I meant to post sooner but got side-tracked looking at reloading .45 ACP... ;)

    bds and the rest of the company have far more useful and valuable contributions on the Pro-1000 than I will ever be able to match. All I can offer are a couple of tidbits I've picked up:

    1) The primer feed is highly dependent on the weight of the stack of primers above the chute. Other than keeping it clean, I found putting a big visual mark for "Danger, Low!" on the chute helped tremendously. For me, that turns out to be 14 primers in the chute when loading with small primers. Any fewer and they stop making it onto the priming ram reliably. A small strip of orange paint warns me when I need to top off. It also helps give me a reference to make sure the primers are advancing down the chute.

    2) I don't always employ this trick, but a proper size bolt, a couple of washers and a wing nut through the unused spindle hole on the left front corner of the machine help hold the tool head in place and reduce OAL variations noticeably. Unfortunately I don't know what measured size the components are supposed to be, I just kind of winged it with a bucket of loose odds and ends until I had something that worked. (bds might have already covered this earlier, apologies if it's redundant.)

    3) For me, using the chain to return the charge bar results in a smoother overall press function than the spring. When using the spring I sometimes felt there was a lot of excess jarring of the whole operation when the charge bar returned under the powder hopper. And as noted, the chain acts as a safety net to help ensure you won't get a double-charge if you don't fully cycle the handle.

    I've loaded everything from bulk 9mm blasting ammo to 77gr .223 Highpower ammo on a Pro-1000 and have found the machine to be plenty capable of producing consistent results. As long as you take the time to keep it clean, adjust the index when you swap the shell plate and stop to investigate any operation that suddenly feels "off", you should be quite happy with your new press.
     
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  21. 1KPerDay

    1KPerDay Member

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    Ok I've loaded a dozen or so rounds and have some questions:

    1. How do you guys change discs? especially if you are using the spring return? How do you remove and replace a case at station 2? I understand with the chain return you don't have to shut off the powder or remove the hopper to change discs? How do you keep the powder in the disc from spilling everywhere?
    2. what do you use to catch completed rounds? With the mounting plate and base in the way I can't get anything to stay there to catch them.
    3. How do you prevent the detent/snap of the shell plate from spilling powder out at station 3? Mine is throwing powder everywhere even with a relatively light charge of W231.
    4. Priming seems okay except I already had one sideways/crushed primer. The chute is full, the tray is full.

    Lots to think about. I'm still not using the case feeder but I'm going to ASAP because it's a lot for my left hand to do every cycle. I also need to polish the completed round chute because they aren't sliding down.

    bds, can you post pics of the mods to your case collator for 9mm? IIRC the original thread had photobucket pics and they are all dead now. What's the deal with 9mm in the case collator? Is it too small? does it not orient them properly?

    Oh, I also pulled the shell plate carrier off of the ram on my 2nd round... even though i'm using carbide dies and cases which have been sprayed with one shot. I looked up the solution for that and it seems to be working now. The hex screw was already pretty damn tight though, which makes me nervous.
     
  22. bds

    bds Member

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    With the chain, I change the disk by:
    - Turn the powder measure to OFF
    - Drop several charges until no powder drops into case
    - Push up PAD unit with empty case and continue lifting the PAD unit with hand which pushes the disk further forward and pull the disk out (towards you)
    - Replace disk making sure the PAD actuator arm is in the bottom slot of disk

    With the spring, do the same as chain but loosen the two brass nuts and lift the powder hopper to change the disk.
    Move the shellplate carrier halfway up with the ram until auto index unlocks and rotate the shellplate with hand to remove the case.
    I am not using the mounting plate. I use a small bread pan (from the dollar store) to catch the finished rounds as the pan will hold several hundred rounds.

    With the mounting plate, could you find a way to create a flat surface to put a container to catch the finished rounds?
    I place a bullet on case before the charged case reaches station 3 (bullet is going there anyways right?).
    If your shellplate index timing is off, it can cause flipped/sideways primers. Adjust the index timing so the shellplate clicks into station BEFORE shellplate carrier reaches the bottom.

    Make sure you are using a cover over the primer attachment chute as even a few granules of powder can cause the primers to not slide smoothly and flip/turn as they slide into station 2.
    You drill a hole in a penny so a spent 22LR case will fit. The holes in the collator work well with larger 40S&W/45ACP cases but with smaller 9mm case, you will get occasional flipped case.

    I can take a picture of the mod but here's a link to one (pic shows dime but penny works well) - http://postimg.org/image/mpgt9o8iz/
    I have resized dry tumbled brass with untreated and treated media (with NuFinish polish) and do not have problem with shellplate carrier pulling off the ram.

    If the shellplate carrier pulls off the ram, there isn't enough friction/tension on the ram:
    - Make sure the top of ram and inside of shellplate carrier is clean without oil
    - Loosen the hex bolt and make sure the shellplate carrier is FULLY SEATED on top of the ram (I even brace an empty plastic primer tray against the top of frame to make sure shellplate carrier is fully seated on the ram)
    - Tighten the hex bolt (I use regular Allen wrench, not the ones with longer handle)
    - If carrier pulls off ram (especially with once-fired NATO spec ammo fired in loose chambers), tighten the Allen bolt until it won't
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2017
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  23. maxxhavoc

    maxxhavoc Member

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    To change disc with the chain, shut off hopper, put a large case like a 45 Colt under the powder die and cycle the powder disc manually until no powder drops. With spring, shut off hopper and drop powder into empty rounds as if you were loading until no powder drops.

    To clear station 2, you need to raise the ram until the Shell plate spins freely and empty station 3 then 2. I usually take the opportunity to weigh the powder drop in the round out of 3. With the ram still raised, reinsert the Shell from 3, seat the bullet, and finish. I cannot stress this enough... If you are using the spring on the powder drop, always removed all cases from the press when you do anything out of sequence like unloading a station.

    I don't use the mounting plate, just bolts. Any plastic tray catches rounds. Part a pic of your setup and we can suggest solutions.

    9mm usually drops some powder on the way to station 3. If it gets bad (more than a flake or 3) you may just need to put a finger on it when it moves.

    As far as bullet seating goes, my right hand can seat a case in station 1 while I am inspecting the charge and seating a bullet with my left. It does it automatically after awhile... No looking required.
     
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  24. whatnickname

    whatnickname Member

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    You're in for something that has so many plastic parts that breakage will become commonplace. In the end you'll end up with a Dillon or a Hornady progressive. The Lee? Haven't laid eyes on it since I walked out the back door a threw it as hard as I could towards the woods!
     
  25. bds

    bds Member

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    So let's find out the "High Road" way.

    Since 1KPerDay is new to Pro 1000, let the seasoned Pro 1000 owners help 1KPerDay get the new press properly set up and operating smoothly. Along with many other Dillon 650 owners, I would do the same for any new owner of Dillon 650 as I have done for fellow THR member ljnowell with his new Pro 1000 - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/preventing-pro-1000-set-up-problems.761231/

    BTW, I have several Pro 1000s set up for dedicated calibers and after over 25 years of use, have only had to replace the small nylon auto index gear from normal wear.

    Let's keep this thread about successful use of Pro 1000 - I am sure that's what the OP would expect from us THR Pro 1000 owners.
     
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