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Keeping rust out of minor pitting

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by monotonous_iterancy, Apr 16, 2013.

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  1. monotonous_iterancy

    monotonous_iterancy Member

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    I care about appearance, but I don't mind a little character. However, I don't want this gun to become a rusted out paperweight in 10 years or so, so I'm leaning towards selling it and getting one with better metal. I'm sure someone would like something to work on, or something to use as a project, someone who has the skills to take care of it better than I can.

    .
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2013
  2. mtrmn

    mtrmn Member

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    Parkerizing will SLIGHTLY fill the lettering, but it will still be as readable as it is now if done properly. Still the best solution if you can find someone that does it or do it yourself. JMO
     
  3. Lucifer_Sam

    Lucifer_Sam Member

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    Well, if you decide to sell, feel free to PM me what you want for it. I might be interested.
     
  4. monotonous_iterancy

    monotonous_iterancy Member

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    If I do decide to sell it, I'd like to secure a good quality example first. Would armslist be a good place to find one? I looked last night, and there were a number of people asking like $5-600 for their Norincos of all sorts. A lot of over-pricing.

    Also, just curious, how much would it cost to parkerize it?
     
  5. Lucifer_Sam

    Lucifer_Sam Member

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    Look like they are going for 380-480 or so on GB. You might get lucky at a local shop, depending on your area and such. Looks like some Russians might be selling low for what the Norincos are selling for high on GB.

    I'd guess parking would be about the same $ as bluing, maybe a bit cheaper, but thats just a guess.
     
  6. OilyPablo

    OilyPablo Member

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    I say ask around on bluing. I know there are guys around that will do it for under $100. They don't advertise, just do it friends or referral. They bought the tanks, gained the knowledge and do it on the side.
     
  7. 4v50 Gary

    4v50 Gary Moderator Staff Member

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    In rebluing a firearm, the metal is polished to remove the metal above the surface of the rust pit. A careless polisher like Buffing Bob will round the corners, change the screw holes to oblong and remove some of the markings.

    I'd clean up the pit and then fill it with beeswax or RIG.
     
  8. monotonous_iterancy

    monotonous_iterancy Member

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    Part of the problem with steel wool is that I don't see results. With the much coarser stuff I used the first time, it came off quickly, left sort of a soupiness that was wiped off easily. Now, with 0000, I spray oil on the area, and the piece of steel wool, and I rub, but little seems to happen, and when I wipe it off, there's nothing.

    Also, what does it mean if it's rust you can only see under a strong light?
     
  9. mtrmn

    mtrmn Member

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    I parkerized a few handguns several years ago and they came out very nice. You'll need access to a bead blaster to prep the gun. This will remove the old finish and rust and leave a matte, kinda rough finish. The parkerizing solution mixes with water and you have to heat it to about 180F. You MUST use a stainless or ceramic pan for heating. All the parts will have to degreased COMPLETELY and handled with rubber gloves to keep fingerprints off. You only have to cook the parts about 30 minutes. I did mine on a coleman camp stove. A long gun will be a bit more difficult than my handguns. As for cost, I haven't checked prices on the stuff lately--do a search on ebay, Amazon, Brownells etc.

    The bead blasting will NOT elongate screw holes and will not obliterate writing etc as long as you only do it enought to remove the bluing.
     
  10. Lucifer_Sam

    Lucifer_Sam Member

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    The coarse wool might be the root of the current problem. It might have scored the surface and given rust a place to purchase. Not sure how you'd deal with that if there is bluing to preserve. I guess I'd try to polish with extra fine wool then heat it and use wax or RIG. If there was no bluing to worry about I'd polish it with 1000 to 2000+ sandpaper followed by polishing compounds then use the wax or RIG.
     
  11. monotonous_iterancy

    monotonous_iterancy Member

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    I've thought that might be part of the problem, but when I did it, there was no visible scratching or finish wear. Could it be microscopic or something?
     
  12. joeschmoe

    joeschmoe Member

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    Sand blast + hard chrome = Bling! :D
     
  13. monotonous_iterancy

    monotonous_iterancy Member

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    Bottom line about using steel wool, how exactly do you use it? I can work for hours and accomplish little. It's not just with this gun, but everything I have that has rust on it.

    I think I'm doing something wrong. When people say gentle, how gentle are we talking? How long does it take to remove rust?
     
  14. monotonous_iterancy

    monotonous_iterancy Member

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    I've also tried using Liquid Wrench before, it it makes any difference.
     
  15. Lucifer_Sam

    Lucifer_Sam Member

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    Let it soak, scrub, repeat. I've left parts in oil for extended periods of time and had the rust basically slough off. I'd left them to soak for a while, though, like months. It was a good synthetic with detergent, don't remember which one, might be Mobil 1
     
  16. monotonous_iterancy

    monotonous_iterancy Member

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    That sounds like a good idea. Soak something for a few days, a week. That stuff doesn't take off bluing?

    One thing that I can't seem to get rid of is this stain on the bolt carrier. It's probably rust because it's caused minor pitting, but even though I've lightened it, it still comes back. I've even scrubbed at it with aluminum foil, and it goes away, but the color comes back within a short time, and by short, I mean within the space of a day.
     
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