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KT P3AT rust problem

Discussion in 'Handguns: Autoloaders' started by Blarelli, Jul 16, 2008.

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  1. Blarelli

    Blarelli Member

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    I have a Kel Tec P3AT rust issue. The exposed left corner of the chamber end of the barrel gets a nice couple of rust spots after I carry it for a few days. I use EEZOX dry-lube, which works fantastic as a lube, and was supposedly the premium in rust protection, but it has failed miserably. So far there is no pitting on the metal, and I have stripped the eezox off of that one spot and have some hoppe's 9 smeared on it to take care of future rust. My real question is how do I get rid of those rust spots. I have brass-brushed them until my arm is sore, but to no avail.
     
  2. powwowell

    powwowell Member

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    No Pitting?

    You said that there was no pitting. Have you tried 0000 steel wool with a little oil?

    I carry a P-32 daily and I have no problem with rust. I do use a pocket holster. My oil of choice is Militec and I'm now leaning toward Rem-Oil. I've read some test results that show Rem-Oil does quite well.
     
  3. woad_yurt

    woad_yurt Member

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    I have a P3AT and the left side of the slide has done the same thing. I oil it a bit and use it as is. I'm not concerned about how it looks but how it works.
     
  4. Dan-O

    Dan-O Member

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    Mine has the same issue. I just hit it with the dremel about once a month and it goes away. Then again, I am not too concerned with it as it won't affect the functionality of the gun.
     
  5. skywarp_

    skywarp_ Member

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    its a 3at they are designed to be disposable:neener:
     
  6. OFT

    OFT Member

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    One of the best rust prevenatives that I've found is Dexron automatic transmission fluid. Wipe a very light coat on the area that is rusting and check it often to see if another coat is needed. Dexron will keep a gun from rusting in rain or high humidity.
     
  7. Disaster

    Disaster Member

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    Once you've got rust, even Eezox isn't going to do great at preventing it from returning. I don't know of a better rust preventative than Eezox.
     
  8. Blarelli

    Blarelli Member

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    I had Eezox on it well before the rust showed up.
     
  9. seed

    seed Member

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    Blarelli, when you applied the Eezox, how long did you let it set on the metal surfaces before you wiped it off?
     
  10. Disaster

    Disaster Member

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    Interesting. Did you let a thin coat dry before wiping it off? If so, I wonder if it is possible you got a bad batch. How long between recoats? All protection will eventually wear off and human sweat is very corrosive.

    Hoppes #9 is better for cleaning but I have never seen anything that says it is very good for protection.

    Here are some Eezox tests.

    http://www.ctmuzzleloaders.com/ctml_experiments/corrosion/corrosion.html

    http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

    http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html

    Eezox website with application tips.

    http://www.eezox.com/gun-care.html
     
  11. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

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    I have kept my 3 year old P3AT waxed with Johnson's Paste Floor Wax for three years now. Not a speck of rust ever, and it gets sweaty every day.

    I have used it on other blued CCW guns forever with perfect results.
    Unlike thin oils and grease, it won't just rub off a few minutes after you put it in your pocket.

    http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=4110525&postcount=7

    Best to completely remove whatever protectant oil you presently use with alcohol or other non-greasy solvent, then hand rub several coats of paste wax into the metal.
    I just leave it on and don't buff it off.

    rcmodel
     
  12. Disaster

    Disaster Member

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    I notice you suggest reapplying every couple weeks. I suspect Eezox would perform as well if the same regime was followed.

     
  13. Tirod

    Tirod Member

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    I've used Simichrome as a protectant - it leaves a layer of wax on the surface to resist rust.

    AG Russel also sells silicone lube for use as a bare steel protectant. It works well for knife blades in long term storage. The treated cloths with silicone also work well - I've had one from the NRA for years, looks black nasty, still does a great job on protecting bare metal.

    Of course, a stainless barrel would be a nice upgrade.
     
  14. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

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    You wouldn't want to be rubbing Simichrome on a blued gun, as it would rather quickly wear the bluing off.

    It is abrasive. That's why it works so well to polish things.

    rcmodel
     
  15. Blarelli

    Blarelli Member

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    My last application was last monday. I applied as directed, allowed to dry for about 2 days, gave it a light rub down and put it back together.
    Also, since my last post, I reinspected the gun and there is now light rust spots on the slide (which is hard chrome). They came off with some light brushing, but this is getting out of control. The gun is now sitting in the safe with a heavy coat of oil while the holster is sitting in front of a fan (I gave the inside a good scrub with an old toothbrush and a little water to try and get rid of any salts from the sweat). I guess until I figure this out I am going to have to carry the kahr everywhere.
     
  16. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

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    Well, that's certainly different!

    Hard Chrome cannot rust!
    So it would appear to me you have rust forming under the chrome and creeping out of the pores.

    If that's the case, there is nothing you can do to stop it now except a total refinish job.

    rcmodel
     
  17. gpr

    gpr Member

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    sand blast, gunkote, is an other option for heavy duty protection with low maintainance.....for the DIY....gpr
     
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