stevec5
Member
LnL AP EZ-ject
received from Midway 8/24/10
s/n 28031
received from Midway 8/24/10
s/n 28031
L&L AP Press Seeking Serial Numbers & Purchase Date Info Data Base - Updated.
- Thread starter David Wile
- Start date
- Status
David Wile
Member
Hey Cfull,
The last part of your last post is exactly why I do not like the quick change feature for Dillon and Hornady presses. You say your
"Dies set up for the Hornady AP press need to be reset if I wish to use them on my single stage. So, i don't do that, it takes too much time..."
Now I am not saying everyone is wrong and I am right. This is just my opinion, and I realize it is no better than yours, and I also realize I am certainly in the minority, but here is what I hate about quick die change systems.
With the Dillon tool heads and the Hornady bushings, most people are sucked into the idea of convenience in setting their dies and not having to change them again. But that is not exactly accurate. They do not have to change them again as long as they continue to use the same bullets and as long as their brass does not change in length for crimping purposes, AND as long as they do not want to use their dies in another press.
The whole quick die change die thing discourages folks from ever changing their dies again; most folks only think about how much time they save when changing calibers, and cost becomes meaningless to many. I have seen many folks who do not stop with multiple tool heads and bushings for each caliber. Many folks then also buy additional powder measures for each caliber so they do not have to change powder settings. Then there are also those who buy an additional progressive so they do not have to make a change in primer size!
Again, I am not trying to tell someone else how to spend their money. They have every right to buy as many tool heads, bushings, powder measures, and whole presses as they want. Even this cheap minded old fool had multiple presses, both progressive as well as single stage, for shotshell loading in 12, 16, and 20 gauges. I am not about to change die sets for shotshell presses.
I do not, however, have any problem with changing dies on metallic presses. After constantly changing dies for nearly 40 years before I first got a progressive metallic press, it was more of a problem for me when I wanted to change bullets in a caliber or wanted to use my dies in a single stage press. Considering the way I was reared concerning money issues, there simply was no way I was going to buy additional die sets for progressive and single stage use. In my mind, you just change the dies and get on with it. And the idea of buying additional powder measures for each caliber or an additional progressive press for each primer size is enough to make me have to sit down and shake my head in wonder.
The one thing I do really like about the L&L bushings on my L&L press, however, is the fact that it makes changing powder throw adjustments and case activated settings a lot easier to do. When I change calibers, I can quickly pull the powder measure in and out, while I change the drop tube things and adjust the measure in the bushing until it works just right for the new caliber. I usually use the powder measure in the same station, but I have changed to a different station a few times.
I have said on other threads that I would like to fix the bushings in my L&L so it would make it easier to change the dies for me. For several years now I have been saying that I am going to do something to fix them in place, but I have been reluctant to do anything nasty to my beautiful machine. I like the idea of drilling and tapping a slanted hole from the top into each station and then using a set screw to hold the bushing in place. I really like the idea but the thought of drilling into my press just makes me shudder. Then a few weeks ago, Walk showed some picture of his press where he drilled a hole through the top to install a light. I was blown away. How could he do that to his press just for a light? After a while, I thought if he could do that, I ought to be able to drill five holes for set screws to hold my bushings in place. I made up my mind that I was finally going to do it, and I am. I just have not gotten around to it yet - but I am going to do it!
So there is a whole lot of words about why I do not like the quick die change features on progressive presses. It will not change any minds, and that is OK since everyone should be able to buy as many dies, bushings, powder measures or whatever he likes. I am in the minority about not worrying about saving time changing dies, but I know I am not alone. There are a few other old fashioned folks here who are just as frugal as I and change their dies as I do. And I suspect a lot of those same folks use their old single stage presses to do their small lot test loading.
Best wishes,
Dave Wile
The last part of your last post is exactly why I do not like the quick change feature for Dillon and Hornady presses. You say your
"Dies set up for the Hornady AP press need to be reset if I wish to use them on my single stage. So, i don't do that, it takes too much time..."
Now I am not saying everyone is wrong and I am right. This is just my opinion, and I realize it is no better than yours, and I also realize I am certainly in the minority, but here is what I hate about quick die change systems.
With the Dillon tool heads and the Hornady bushings, most people are sucked into the idea of convenience in setting their dies and not having to change them again. But that is not exactly accurate. They do not have to change them again as long as they continue to use the same bullets and as long as their brass does not change in length for crimping purposes, AND as long as they do not want to use their dies in another press.
The whole quick die change die thing discourages folks from ever changing their dies again; most folks only think about how much time they save when changing calibers, and cost becomes meaningless to many. I have seen many folks who do not stop with multiple tool heads and bushings for each caliber. Many folks then also buy additional powder measures for each caliber so they do not have to change powder settings. Then there are also those who buy an additional progressive so they do not have to make a change in primer size!
Again, I am not trying to tell someone else how to spend their money. They have every right to buy as many tool heads, bushings, powder measures, and whole presses as they want. Even this cheap minded old fool had multiple presses, both progressive as well as single stage, for shotshell loading in 12, 16, and 20 gauges. I am not about to change die sets for shotshell presses.
I do not, however, have any problem with changing dies on metallic presses. After constantly changing dies for nearly 40 years before I first got a progressive metallic press, it was more of a problem for me when I wanted to change bullets in a caliber or wanted to use my dies in a single stage press. Considering the way I was reared concerning money issues, there simply was no way I was going to buy additional die sets for progressive and single stage use. In my mind, you just change the dies and get on with it. And the idea of buying additional powder measures for each caliber or an additional progressive press for each primer size is enough to make me have to sit down and shake my head in wonder.
The one thing I do really like about the L&L bushings on my L&L press, however, is the fact that it makes changing powder throw adjustments and case activated settings a lot easier to do. When I change calibers, I can quickly pull the powder measure in and out, while I change the drop tube things and adjust the measure in the bushing until it works just right for the new caliber. I usually use the powder measure in the same station, but I have changed to a different station a few times.
I have said on other threads that I would like to fix the bushings in my L&L so it would make it easier to change the dies for me. For several years now I have been saying that I am going to do something to fix them in place, but I have been reluctant to do anything nasty to my beautiful machine. I like the idea of drilling and tapping a slanted hole from the top into each station and then using a set screw to hold the bushing in place. I really like the idea but the thought of drilling into my press just makes me shudder. Then a few weeks ago, Walk showed some picture of his press where he drilled a hole through the top to install a light. I was blown away. How could he do that to his press just for a light? After a while, I thought if he could do that, I ought to be able to drill five holes for set screws to hold my bushings in place. I made up my mind that I was finally going to do it, and I am. I just have not gotten around to it yet - but I am going to do it!
So there is a whole lot of words about why I do not like the quick die change features on progressive presses. It will not change any minds, and that is OK since everyone should be able to buy as many dies, bushings, powder measures or whatever he likes. I am in the minority about not worrying about saving time changing dies, but I know I am not alone. There are a few other old fashioned folks here who are just as frugal as I and change their dies as I do. And I suspect a lot of those same folks use their old single stage presses to do their small lot test loading.
Best wishes,
Dave Wile
David Wile
Member
Hey Blue & Steve,
Your info has been added to the list.
Best wishes,
Dave Wile
Your info has been added to the list.
Best wishes,
Dave Wile
For years I screwed my dies in and out of my Projector and was happy. I thought the bushing thing was an answer to a non problem.
Then I decided to go ahead and get an LNL, despite the cost of bushings.
Hmm, this ain't too bad after all.
I keep some dies in the bushings all the time. Pistol sizers (Don't need adjusting), expanders (Just adjust the plug, not the die body). Most pistol crimp dies are screwed in and out since I use spacers to adjust the amount of crimp.
Rifle sizers are screwed in and out because they need to be adjusted at times. Rifle seater/crimpers are usually just left alone, as I keep the brass trimmed and the amount of crimp the same. The die body stays put, while the seater stem gets adjusted as needed for various bullets.
So, the bushings are faster most times, and very convenient, but they are neither awesome nor terrible. I do like the bushings now.
I load everything right now on the LNL. No worries about the dies not fitting another press. If I was loading a caliber on another press, the dies would be adjusted for it, so still no worries.
I can set up my measure and dies for a pistol caliber, and load 25 or 50 to test so fast it takes just a few minutes to load them. This is, of course, with brass that is already to load. I always have brass sized, primed, and ready in almost all calibers.
I did two 50 batch .357 loads and three 50 batch .45 Colt loads the other night in a relatively short time. I have shot the .357 loads, but not the .45 Colt loads. I did shoot the 16 .45 Colts I loaded up, and have loaded 16 more at the next powder level. (Test cases)
Then I decided to go ahead and get an LNL, despite the cost of bushings.
Hmm, this ain't too bad after all.
I keep some dies in the bushings all the time. Pistol sizers (Don't need adjusting), expanders (Just adjust the plug, not the die body). Most pistol crimp dies are screwed in and out since I use spacers to adjust the amount of crimp.
Rifle sizers are screwed in and out because they need to be adjusted at times. Rifle seater/crimpers are usually just left alone, as I keep the brass trimmed and the amount of crimp the same. The die body stays put, while the seater stem gets adjusted as needed for various bullets.
So, the bushings are faster most times, and very convenient, but they are neither awesome nor terrible. I do like the bushings now.
I load everything right now on the LNL. No worries about the dies not fitting another press. If I was loading a caliber on another press, the dies would be adjusted for it, so still no worries.
I can set up my measure and dies for a pistol caliber, and load 25 or 50 to test so fast it takes just a few minutes to load them. This is, of course, with brass that is already to load. I always have brass sized, primed, and ready in almost all calibers.
I did two 50 batch .357 loads and three 50 batch .45 Colt loads the other night in a relatively short time. I have shot the .357 loads, but not the .45 Colt loads. I did shoot the 16 .45 Colts I loaded up, and have loaded 16 more at the next powder level. (Test cases)
Dave, thanks for the comments. My process works for me, but it is by no means the only way to reload or use the equipment.
What ever works for the individual, including time and economic constraints, is the best process.
I present my process to give folks ideas on how to improve their process, not as the "only way to reload". I have developed my process by seeing what other folks do and adapting their ideas to me. So, maybe I can help others.
I have changed presses twice since I started reloading. With each change, single stage to single stage and then single stage to progressive, I had to reset my dies for the new press. Therefore, to return to using the old press, I would have to reset the dies again. The distance from the lock ring to the shell holder/plate is different between presses.
By resetting the dies, I mean adjusting the die and repositioning the lock ring to properly fit the press in use.
But, I will edit my comment to say that "i am too lazy to reset the dies." I find on the progressive, I can do things like i did on the single stage if necessary, so why upset the die settings for a few cartridges.
The Hornady AP press is very flexible in allowing one to adjust operations for the task at hand.
I change bullets when using the progressive. A simple adjustment of the seater plug. But, I have been reloading for so long, I really do not change my handgun ammunition much any more. I have found what I like and don't change it much any more.
I crimp is a separate step, even when I used a single stage. Actually, on the progressive, I have found I can lock the crimp die down. i was making my self extra work on the single stage press with continually adjusting the crimp die.
Now, i will admit I have not yet loaded any high power revolver loads on the progressive that require a serious roll crimp. Case length will play a role here. But, I have added separate roll crimp dies for the revolver cartridges, something I did not do on the single stage.
But, I do not shoot much high power revolver loads any more. I am still working off ammunition I loaded 15 years or so ago.
With my single stage presses, once a die was set, I never moved it. So, it is no different with the progressive, quick change bushings or not.
I do have a powder drop die dedicated for each cartridges although in a coupe of instances i am able to use one die for a couple cartridges, i just change out the drop tube. i also have been buying metering inserts for each cartridge to make setting up the powder measure quicker.
My solution to the primer seating issue is I remove the primer system from the presses. The primer systems and I do not get along and i would rather hand prime anyway. But i do have two hand primer tools, one set up for large primers and the other for small primers.
I reload 45 ACP and 9x19 on Dillon SDBs. A press for each. The resizer die and priming systems are removed. I resize the cases on the Hornady and hand prime.
I guess i fall in the category of folks who spend extra money on reloading gear to make my life easier.
i would not have minded if the Hornady AP press had come with screw in die positions. I really do not find the bushings add that much convenience and they do add to the cost. I guess I could have one set of bushing and spin dies in and out of them. But, i am not willing to lock-tite the bushings in place as suggested by some others on the forum.
What ever works for the individual, including time and economic constraints, is the best process.
I present my process to give folks ideas on how to improve their process, not as the "only way to reload". I have developed my process by seeing what other folks do and adapting their ideas to me. So, maybe I can help others.
I have changed presses twice since I started reloading. With each change, single stage to single stage and then single stage to progressive, I had to reset my dies for the new press. Therefore, to return to using the old press, I would have to reset the dies again. The distance from the lock ring to the shell holder/plate is different between presses.
By resetting the dies, I mean adjusting the die and repositioning the lock ring to properly fit the press in use.
But, I will edit my comment to say that "i am too lazy to reset the dies." I find on the progressive, I can do things like i did on the single stage if necessary, so why upset the die settings for a few cartridges.
The Hornady AP press is very flexible in allowing one to adjust operations for the task at hand.
I change bullets when using the progressive. A simple adjustment of the seater plug. But, I have been reloading for so long, I really do not change my handgun ammunition much any more. I have found what I like and don't change it much any more.
I crimp is a separate step, even when I used a single stage. Actually, on the progressive, I have found I can lock the crimp die down. i was making my self extra work on the single stage press with continually adjusting the crimp die.
Now, i will admit I have not yet loaded any high power revolver loads on the progressive that require a serious roll crimp. Case length will play a role here. But, I have added separate roll crimp dies for the revolver cartridges, something I did not do on the single stage.
But, I do not shoot much high power revolver loads any more. I am still working off ammunition I loaded 15 years or so ago.
With my single stage presses, once a die was set, I never moved it. So, it is no different with the progressive, quick change bushings or not.
I do have a powder drop die dedicated for each cartridges although in a coupe of instances i am able to use one die for a couple cartridges, i just change out the drop tube. i also have been buying metering inserts for each cartridge to make setting up the powder measure quicker.
My solution to the primer seating issue is I remove the primer system from the presses. The primer systems and I do not get along and i would rather hand prime anyway. But i do have two hand primer tools, one set up for large primers and the other for small primers.
I reload 45 ACP and 9x19 on Dillon SDBs. A press for each. The resizer die and priming systems are removed. I resize the cases on the Hornady and hand prime.
I guess i fall in the category of folks who spend extra money on reloading gear to make my life easier.
i would not have minded if the Hornady AP press had come with screw in die positions. I really do not find the bushings add that much convenience and they do add to the cost. I guess I could have one set of bushing and spin dies in and out of them. But, i am not willing to lock-tite the bushings in place as suggested by some others on the forum.
I just loaded 30 .458 Winchester Mags on my LNL. 10 with Trail Boss, 10 with AA 5744, and 10 with H322. I used the LNL measure for TB and H322, and used my BR-30 for the 5744. Went pretty quickly. Yep, pre-sized and primed brass.
.32 ACP to .458 Win Mag. It can do it all.
.32 ACP to .458 Win Mag. It can do it all.
SAGEEN
Member
original press date april 2011 ser # 30295 replacement from Hornady received December 19 2011 ser # 36821 hope this helps
David Wile
Member
Hey Sageen,
You had press #30295 and then Hornady replaced it with press #36821? I will add your information, but would you mind telling us what happened that your original press was replaced?
Best wishes,
Dave Wile
You had press #30295 and then Hornady replaced it with press #36821? I will add your information, but would you mind telling us what happened that your original press was replaced?
Best wishes,
Dave Wile
Seedtick
Member
Hey there Mr. Dave, no the 44s haven't made it yet but I expect it to take longer this time of the year, no worries.
You go right on ahead to Tombstone when you get ready. Just swing by here on your way through and I'll fix you up with a six shooter or two. But only if you promise me a picture of you all 'duded' up....
....and no horses will be necessary.Seedtick
Vec
Member
L-n-L #27769 with EZ-Ject purchased from Midway September 2010.
No problems so far, all original parts (added the micrometer powder measures after the fact). Around 20K rounds of various calibers (all pistol, no rifle yet) through it thus far give or take with no real problems.
No problems so far, all original parts (added the micrometer powder measures after the fact). Around 20K rounds of various calibers (all pistol, no rifle yet) through it thus far give or take with no real problems.
SAGEEN
Member
David - they replaced my press after shipping it to them 2 times because 45ACP and 44 mag shells would hit the sizer die on the outside edge and not go in unless you lined them up by hand. They tried parts but Engineering couldn't get it to work. Good job with the listings. Merry Christmas to all!
Captaingyro
Member
#18753 with EZ-Ject purchased in April 2009 from MidSouth.
Absolutely no problems so far. Love the press.
I hand prime with the RCBS APS system, so don't use the priming feature. I have different powder drop lower assemblies for different cartridges. These things are surprisingly cheap for the time and effort they save, and make cartridge swaps a snap.
When I had to make the decision between Blue and Red, it was a tough choice. Both companies have excellent reputations, and legions of loyal owners. The decision came down to this: although Dillon has top-notch customer service and a no-questions-asked replacement policy, it seems that you pay for it up-front. It's like being forced to buy the extended warranty.
When I did the math, (and factoring in the free bullets), I could have gotten two LnL's for the price of a single 650. Even if someone could convincingly demonstrate that the 650 was better than the LnL, I can't imagine anyone making a credible case that it's twice as good. I have no regrets.
Absolutely no problems so far. Love the press.
I hand prime with the RCBS APS system, so don't use the priming feature. I have different powder drop lower assemblies for different cartridges. These things are surprisingly cheap for the time and effort they save, and make cartridge swaps a snap.
When I had to make the decision between Blue and Red, it was a tough choice. Both companies have excellent reputations, and legions of loyal owners. The decision came down to this: although Dillon has top-notch customer service and a no-questions-asked replacement policy, it seems that you pay for it up-front. It's like being forced to buy the extended warranty.
When I did the math, (and factoring in the free bullets), I could have gotten two LnL's for the price of a single 650. Even if someone could convincingly demonstrate that the 650 was better than the LnL, I can't imagine anyone making a credible case that it's twice as good. I have no regrets.
flhtci2006
Member
Purchased from Midway USA Nov. 2011 S/N 31327
brominated
Member
I received mine this last week from Graf's, serial number 36,297.
Part #29(drive hub) sheared cleanly in two this morning after my first 100 or so rounds thru it. On the downstroke with all dies full, 9mm, once fired used brass. Seemed to finally be humming along after taking quite awhile to get there. (This, my first progressive press after learning on a single stage then a turret press).
Talked to Hornady this morning and they are sending out a replacement and a pre paid label for the old one. Hopefully, this is the first and last time with this particular issue.
Part #29(drive hub) sheared cleanly in two this morning after my first 100 or so rounds thru it. On the downstroke with all dies full, 9mm, once fired used brass. Seemed to finally be humming along after taking quite awhile to get there. (This, my first progressive press after learning on a single stage then a turret press).
Talked to Hornady this morning and they are sending out a replacement and a pre paid label for the old one. Hopefully, this is the first and last time with this particular issue.
David Wile
Member
Hey brominated,
Is that the same part that one or two other folks have reported broken in the last six weeks or so? If it is, Hornady must have had some bad parts supplied. Don't get too impatient, though. You will eventually get all the right parts and have a really good machine. Concratulations, even if there is a glitch right now.
Hey to the other folks,
I know I have some serial numbers reported recently that I have not included yet, but I will get around to it in the next few days.
Best wishes,
Dave Wile
Is that the same part that one or two other folks have reported broken in the last six weeks or so? If it is, Hornady must have had some bad parts supplied. Don't get too impatient, though. You will eventually get all the right parts and have a really good machine. Concratulations, even if there is a glitch right now.
Hey to the other folks,
I know I have some serial numbers reported recently that I have not included yet, but I will get around to it in the next few days.
Best wishes,
Dave Wile
brominated
Member
Dave,
Indeed the pictures john16443 has up showing his broken drive hub could have been a picture of mine, same exact spot were it broke clean in two. I too was using the number 8 plate running some 9mm thru it, oddly enough. I had started moving along in the process and was making some nice ammo when it quit on me. Just about the time the nervous thought of being within the same serial number range of some of these other folks who were having this issue had left my mind, it happened.
Interestingly, I was informed by one nice gal at Hornady that this part is designed to break first, in the case of the machine binding while force is still being exerted on it. When talking with the guy in the tech dept I asked if that is in fact the case do they in turn replace this part for people often then? No, was the reply. In my case nothing was bound or seemingly stuck as far as I could tell when it came apart. It was actually doing it's thing quite impressively.
The tech guy at Hornady was also concerned with me sending the broken part in as he let it be known that this was happening more frequently these days and they needed to figure out was going on.
I'd consider Hornady a first rate company and trust they'll take care of things.
Excellent job on the compilation by the way Dave!
Indeed the pictures john16443 has up showing his broken drive hub could have been a picture of mine, same exact spot were it broke clean in two. I too was using the number 8 plate running some 9mm thru it, oddly enough. I had started moving along in the process and was making some nice ammo when it quit on me. Just about the time the nervous thought of being within the same serial number range of some of these other folks who were having this issue had left my mind, it happened.
Interestingly, I was informed by one nice gal at Hornady that this part is designed to break first, in the case of the machine binding while force is still being exerted on it. When talking with the guy in the tech dept I asked if that is in fact the case do they in turn replace this part for people often then? No, was the reply. In my case nothing was bound or seemingly stuck as far as I could tell when it came apart. It was actually doing it's thing quite impressively.
The tech guy at Hornady was also concerned with me sending the broken part in as he let it be known that this was happening more frequently these days and they needed to figure out was going on.
I'd consider Hornady a first rate company and trust they'll take care of things.
Excellent job on the compilation by the way Dave!
777TRUTH
Member
brominated,
Same thing happened to 3 of us very recently in your serial # range.
In my case the replacement part has been humming along very nicely. I have since added a case feeder with zero issues on the press and feeder once passed the initial setup, buffing and polishing.
Hopefully your experience will turn out like mine and you will be very happy with a reliable and consistent press once passed this inconvenience.
Same thing happened to 3 of us very recently in your serial # range.
In my case the replacement part has been humming along very nicely. I have since added a case feeder with zero issues on the press and feeder once passed the initial setup, buffing and polishing.
Hopefully your experience will turn out like mine and you will be very happy with a reliable and consistent press once passed this inconvenience.
john16443
Member
brominated's experience seems to mimic my initial exactly. I never got to the load ammo stage with the 9mm when it broke, was just passing empty cases through the first couple dies. What worries me now is that his SN is only 35 lower than my replacement. Even though I've processed well over 1000 rounds through my press in less than a month, it's still going strong. Will keep fingers crossed.
Glad to hear that Hornady is realizing that they may have a problem with this part and are interested in doing a root cause analysis. Somehow we have to keep on top of this with Hornady so that we know what the problem was.
Glad to hear that Hornady is realizing that they may have a problem with this part and are interested in doing a root cause analysis. Somehow we have to keep on top of this with Hornady so that we know what the problem was.
David Wile
Member
Hey folks,
I am sorry there seems to be problems with this part on the L&L.
I am happy it seems like everyone's press is now fixed and working properly.
However, no matter how many of you guys tell me how well your presses are working with the automatic case feeder, you cannot make me feel there is something wrong with me just because I do not like auto case feeders.
I certainly am glad they work for you all, but they are not for me. I used a friend's L&L with a case feeder, and it is not for me. Too much noise for me. Call me an old goat if you like, but I am quite happy with my L&L as originally issued. I spent a whole lot of years working single stage presses, and the idea of going to the L&L AP was all the innovation my old brain and personality could handle. If I add a case feeder and a bullet feeder, what is next? Adding a system that operates the handle? All you have to do then is press a button to cycle the machine.
You folks can leave me behind, but I am really glad you all are getting your machines to work properly. I have always said it is a complicated machine, and a lot of folks obviously have problems getting them to work right. If you can tune your machine to work properly and then add case feeders and bullet feeders and make them work properly, you must be doing something right, and I salute you all.
Best wishes,
Dave Wile
I am sorry there seems to be problems with this part on the L&L.
I am happy it seems like everyone's press is now fixed and working properly.
However, no matter how many of you guys tell me how well your presses are working with the automatic case feeder, you cannot make me feel there is something wrong with me just because I do not like auto case feeders.
I certainly am glad they work for you all, but they are not for me. I used a friend's L&L with a case feeder, and it is not for me. Too much noise for me. Call me an old goat if you like, but I am quite happy with my L&L as originally issued. I spent a whole lot of years working single stage presses, and the idea of going to the L&L AP was all the innovation my old brain and personality could handle. If I add a case feeder and a bullet feeder, what is next? Adding a system that operates the handle? All you have to do then is press a button to cycle the machine.
You folks can leave me behind, but I am really glad you all are getting your machines to work properly. I have always said it is a complicated machine, and a lot of folks obviously have problems getting them to work right. If you can tune your machine to work properly and then add case feeders and bullet feeders and make them work properly, you must be doing something right, and I salute you all.
Best wishes,
Dave Wile
whistlerswe
Member
- Joined
- Feb 6, 2011
- Messages
- 2
Don't fall off your chairs now, fellas!
My LNL has serial number 00146.
Unfortunately I am not the first buyer so I don't know the original date of purchase. I believe I am the third owner in fact (at least).
Since buying it in 2009 I have put about 50,000 cases through it.
If you want any info on my press, just let me know.
So far I have had to change the following (free of charge from Hornady, very nice since I live in Sweden):
Priming slide (small primers)
Priming housing (plastic)
Indexing assembly (nylon set screws wore out, got a whole new lower assembly)
I will probably change the priming punches very soon (the edges are worn round). I am also having some problems that the priming punch nut will not stay on. In just a few rounds it comes loose and soon falls off. I have tried roughening the surface so it binds on the sub plate, but it doesn't help.
My only real problem as of now is that the #8 shell plate for 9mm is flexing, making the cases flop around. I will try to clean the press tomorrow and see if it helps.
I have tried doing some research on the EZ-ject upgrade system. Does anyone know why it only fits #7000 and up?
One of the main features seems to be to get rid of the ejector wire so you can use a dedicated crimp die in the fifth station. I was surprised at this, since I have always used a crimp die in the fifth station, I just bent the ejector wire slightly and filed and small recess in it to allow the die to pass. Works perfectly!
My LNL has serial number 00146.
Unfortunately I am not the first buyer so I don't know the original date of purchase. I believe I am the third owner in fact (at least).
Since buying it in 2009 I have put about 50,000 cases through it.
If you want any info on my press, just let me know.
So far I have had to change the following (free of charge from Hornady, very nice since I live in Sweden):
Priming slide (small primers)
Priming housing (plastic)
Indexing assembly (nylon set screws wore out, got a whole new lower assembly)
I will probably change the priming punches very soon (the edges are worn round). I am also having some problems that the priming punch nut will not stay on. In just a few rounds it comes loose and soon falls off. I have tried roughening the surface so it binds on the sub plate, but it doesn't help.
My only real problem as of now is that the #8 shell plate for 9mm is flexing, making the cases flop around. I will try to clean the press tomorrow and see if it helps.
I have tried doing some research on the EZ-ject upgrade system. Does anyone know why it only fits #7000 and up?
One of the main features seems to be to get rid of the ejector wire so you can use a dedicated crimp die in the fifth station. I was surprised at this, since I have always used a crimp die in the fifth station, I just bent the ejector wire slightly and filed and small recess in it to allow the die to pass. Works perfectly!
Blue68f100
Member
I think at 7000up the base mounts differently. Mine uses 2 flat head Allen screws.
kbeck76
Member
LNL AP
Purchased from Graf's 12/4/04
Serial # 08465
Converted to EZJect about a year ago.
Kevin
Purchased from Graf's 12/4/04
Serial # 08465
Converted to EZJect about a year ago.
Kevin
thorn-
Member
I don't understand how your shell plate is flexing... it's a pretty thick piece of steel. Is it loose, or are your dies hitting the plate improperly when the ram is up?
thorn
Perhaps it is one of the really old shell plates with only one small ball detent, vs the newer ones with two larger ball detents.
While they do not "flex", they do not run as evenly as the newer ones.
While they do not "flex", they do not run as evenly as the newer ones.
whistlerswe
Member
- Joined
- Feb 6, 2011
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Imagine letting the bolt holding the shell plate turn loose half a turn. That is the way my shell plate flexes, like it is not being held down properly. I use Redding Pro series dies, so I have the seater and expander screwed down to touch the shell plate when it is raised, but I still have problems with leaning 9mm cases.
My shell plates have two ball detents. I do not know if they are small or large, but I have one of the newer ones and think they are they same size.
Funny enough I seem to be the only one in the world NOT having problems using shellplate #1 for .45 ACP and .45 GAP.
My shell plates have two ball detents. I do not know if they are small or large, but I have one of the newer ones and think they are they same size.
Funny enough I seem to be the only one in the world NOT having problems using shellplate #1 for .45 ACP and .45 GAP.
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