Discussion in 'Blackpowder' started by badkarmamib, Jun 3, 2020.
Since you know that 50 grains is safe, I would stick with that loading.
One way to reduce recoil somewhat is to lighten the projectile. Your rifle twist probably isn’t set up for round ball but you can still shoot a patched 176 grain ball. Lymans Black Powder handbook lists a minimum charge of 50 grains for said projectile for a 28inch barrel. Produces 1348 FPS. I’d have no qualms about about starting out at 40-45 grains understanding that accuracy is not the primary concern but getting your son accustomed to recoil is.
NOTE: I’ve cleared non-inline barrels were the patched ball was seated without a powder charge under it with nothing more than a few grains of powder under the nipple so 40 grains of powder/Pyrodex is more than sufficient to send the ball down range.
I have heard that several times and have found it to work quite well. .45, and .50 calibers have not only been pleasant, but have been pretty accurate with the 1 gr per caliber loads. In fact, with the .45 that I was hunting with I rethought my whole setup with it and dropped down to 70 gr instead of 100 and shooting a ball over a greased wad really does well. 50gr should be plenty light for even a youngster unless your gun is on the side of being silly light weight.
.40 cal bullets are made in weights of 155, 165 and 180 grains.
They should help to reduce recoil and still be able to allow for some accuracy with the fast twist rifling and lighter powder charge.
MMP .50 sabots for .40 cal. bullets:--->>> https://mmpsabots.com/store/blue-hph-sabot50-pcs/
Hornady also makes "Hardballs", hardened round balls that come fitted with a sabot. --->>> https://www.hornady.com/muzzleloading/hard-balls#!/
The tight fitting sabots should help to not strip the fast twist rifling.
Patched round balls might work with a fast twist with 30 - 40 grains of powder.
That's what my kid started out with at 9 years old.
And in a much remembered and embarrassing episode, I dryballed a patched .495 ball in said rifle. 6-10ish grains packed in through the clean out screw popped the ball out and onto the ground a couple of yards in front.
As others have noted, 50 grains is fine.
I'd suggest that your 100 grain load, unless you're reaching past 150 yards, or it's the only really accurate load for that rifle, is a bit stout.
I use a soft lead, 224 grain .530 ball, and 70 grains, and it goes through moderate sized white tails at 110 yards. Your bullet, is smaller in diameter, but longer as it's not a sphere. I'd look at 80 grains as a hunting load, and I'd look at loose pyrodex and a measure instead of the "pills" for propellant. IF you're using a modern lead bullet in your sabot, then most definitely you can back off on the powder and still get excellent results, as modern bullet alloy is harder than what I use, and so at impact isn't going to deform and thus will not increase friction as it passes through the game animal.
I have used loads that chronographed at less than 600 fps when I was testing loads for prb in fast twist inlines.
As an example... For my youngsters I loaded a .50 Hawken with 20gr FFg Goex under a .490 patched round ball. It was a hoot to shoot and clean enough that we could easy go 30 or 40 shots without significant fouling buildup.
Same story for my Traditions inline .50. I don't shoot sabots but rather shoot 285 grain minnies through it. The kids found it very shootable at 25 grains and quite accurate at 50 yards.
NONE of the above loads are sane or recommended for harvesting live game. For that, the in-line gets 90gr FFg and the Hawken gets 70gr FFFg - in both rifles these loads represent the crossover point between down-range killing energy and accuracy/shootability.
I have only shot sabots a few times. Around here our shots on deer are short - the Hawken is subject to a self-imposed range limit of 50 yards on whitetails while the in-line will stretch to 75 yards if needed (but it's never been needed). So far my longest shot with a m/l rifle on deer has been 50 yards when an impudent little spike buck literally stood on top of my 50 yard range marker. Needless to say I had no excuses for a missed shot since I knew with exactitude the range to my target!
I would suggest you consider shooting non-sabot loads to ease the loading process and reduce the need for a whistle-clean bore. Doing so will likely result in more shooting being done with greater pleasure and lower cost.
Oh, I cast my own .490 round ball and Minnies using a Lee mould and pure lead reclaimed from spent .177 airgun pellets. Works a charm and the deer never seem to argue with it!
If you are starting a recoil-shy son, I would clearly step away from sabots entirely and, using minnies, drop the powder charge as low as you can go. In the above posts you've seen mention of 25-30 grains of powder - this is a good place to start. As a child I started shooting waaaay too much gun waaay to early and have been battling the resulting flinch reflex my entire life. It's no fun. Start 'em early, but start 'em light.
Separate names with a comma.