Lee 223 factory crimp die

My 2 cents.

I don't crimp my competition loads or anything that I'm shooting for accuracy and done plan on shooting a ton of. For plinking I do a slight crimp. I figure it doesn't hurt to have additional crimp when feeding from a magazine or storing rounds for a long time.
 
Advice from my Old Man ... " If something works ... don't "fix" it ! "

The Taper crimp would be my method of choice ... but we reload to experiment with things .
I would load a small batch , 20 taper crimp and 20 Lee FCD ... get to the shooting bench and very carefully shoot 4 targets with 5 shote each ... the target groups will tell the tale ... you never know what works untill you tries it .
Gary
 
This guy tested crimp vs no crimp impact on accuracy.

That guy was shooting cheap ball bullets into 2” groups. I guess if that satisfies your standards for performance( especially considering he was shooting a custom White Oak barrel), I guess you can enjoy the fact that the groups are so bad that not even crimping can hurt your groups.

IMG_1479.jpeg
 
This guy tested crimp vs no crimp impact on accuracy.

The best way to figure out if you're crimping too much is to pull a bullet and see.
FMJ & accuracy in the same sentence doesn't compute. Lets see it with good bullets in a good barrel.
 
Short answer, I have one, I have been using one, I am probably going to stop using it in the very near future.

I am delving into concentricity and still have some testing to finish, waiting on a die. But based on my initial testing and understanding of the process I feel that the Lee crimp die is probably causing concentricity and accuracy problems. I am planning see if the bullets do actually set back with no crimp when being chambered, and how my crimp effects both concentricity and accuracy. hoping to have the results in the next couple weeks, if usps can get me my die now that they found it again.
 
Don’t crimp. 4-5thou neck tension. No crimp.
I can certainly appreciate that advice for any rifle bullet without a crimp groove. I am sure denting a bullet can only ruin it.

What about for 223 bullets with a crimp groove? I don't have enough experience to have an opinion of my own. I do have a Redding Micro-Adjustable Taper Crimp Die.
Does it make sense to use a taper crimp die on Hornady 55-grain Spire Point bullets with a crimp groove? Gun is semi-auto.
These are the bullets:

HOR2266B-e1581019669611-600x600.jpg

I know they're not V-Max. I paid 10 cents each, and I'm still hoping to get better accuracy out of them than M193 FMJ. Should I taper crimp or not?

I also wonder about Hornady CX. These bullets have friction-reducing grooves. Should I taper crimp into one of those or leave them without a crimp?
 
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I can certainly appreciate that advice for any rifle bullet without a crimp groove. I am sure denting a bullet can only ruin it.

What about for 223 bullets with a crimp groove? I don't have enough experience to have an opinion of my own. I do have a Redding Micro-Adjustable Taper Crimp Die.
Does it make sense to use a taper crimp die on Hornady 55-grain Spire Point bullets with a crimp groove? Gun is semi-auto.
These are the bullets:

HOR2266B-e1581019669611-600x600.jpg

I know they're not V-Max. I paid 10 cents each, and I'm still hoping to get better accuracy out of them than M193 FMJ. Should I taper crimp or not?

I also wonder about Hornady CX. These bullets have friction-reducing grooves. Should I taper crimp into one of those or leave them without a crimp?
They should outshoot M193 for sure, a light taper crimp or not.
 
Does it make sense to use a taper crimp die on Hornady 55-grain Spire Point bullets with a crimp groove? Gun is semi-auto.

I don’t and won’t. If a semiauto isn’t feeding properly and shoving bullets into the case, the rifle is defective, and needs to be tuned. Crimping ammo to avoid bullet set back is like taking aspirin for brain cancer - treats a symptom without solving the disease.

Tube loaded leverguns, extreme recoiling DGR’s, generic ammo made to feed in unknown rifles, sure, crimp. For everything else, nah.
 
Does it make sense to use a taper crimp die on Hornady 55-grain Spire Point bullets with a crimp groove? Gun is semi-auto.
I don't crimp those bullets, and that's mostly what I shoot in my AR's. I seat to book COL, which is right there at the crimp groove, and run with it.

Test it both ways and see which works best for you.

chris
 
Only time I crimp rifle ammo is progressive loaded 223, 300 BO and 308 that I flared the case slightly with an Mdie to keep the bullet feeder happy. Those that have used an Mdie know that this flare is very small. So I only need to set my FCD up to give the case a kiss to remove the flare. Nothing more, nothing less.

I run 2 thou neck tension on everything and have never found evidence of set back on mag fed rifles. If you are getting set back, either your brass needs to be annealed because it isn't holding neck tension due to work hardening or you rifle has a feed issue that needs to be resolved. Fix the actual issue, don't put a Bandaid on it.
 
I don’t and won’t. If a semiauto isn’t feeding properly and shoving bullets into the case, the rifle is defective, and needs to be tuned. Crimping ammo to avoid bullet set back is like taking aspirin for brain cancer - treats a symptom without solving the disease.

Tube loaded leverguns, extreme recoiling DGR’s, generic ammo made to feed in unknown rifles, sure, crimp. For everything else, nah.
This.
 
Ok, then do it.

There's a difference between having data and having an opinion...

Yeah, no, that "data" from the linked video and the screen grab @Varminterror posted isn't useful for an "accuracy" comparison. At best it shows the accuracy variation I'd expect to see shooting groups with full metal jacket ammo. In short it isn't data, it's noise.

As for the OP, to reiterate and join the chorus of voices, there's no need to crimp when reloading for an AR. You shouldn't be getting bullet setback while feeding through one. I'm pretty convinced if you see damage on the bullet after cycling a dummy round through an AR, it's caused from the bullet contacting the barrel extension on EXTRACTION, not from the feeding cycle.
 
To all the replies that say we should not see bullet set back or jump when feeding in an AR, the Sierra article linked by 243winxb:

"During tests here at Sierra’s range, we chambered a variety of factory Match ammunition in an AR-15 rifle. This ammunition was from one of the most popular brands in use today, loaded with Sierra’s 69 grain MatchKing bullet. To conduct the test, we chambered individual rounds by inserting them into the magazines and manually releasing the bolt. We then repeated the tests by loading two rounds into the magazine, chambering and firing the first, and then extracting and measuring the second round. This eliminated any potential variation caused by the difference between a bolt that had been released from an open position (first round in the magazine) and those subsequent rounds that were chambered by the normal semi-automatic operation of the rifle. Measuring the rounds before chambering and then re-measuring after they were carefully extracted resulted in an average increase of three thousandths (0.003″) of forward bullet movement. Some individual rounds showed up to seven thousandths (0.007″) movement. Please bear in mind that these results were with factory ammunition, normally having a higher bullet pull than handloaded ammunition."​
In short, Sierra saw considerable bullet jump when chambering factory cartridges in an AR. How then can you claim we should not see bullet movement, and if bullet movement is seen, the rifle is defective? Are you claiming the rifle Sierra used for their tests was also defective? I notice that they indicated the ammo was factory Match ammunition. Their preferred proposed solution is greater neck tension. They wrote 2 to 3 thou. Unfortunately, they didn't report testing this and validating that it eliminated bullet jump in the same tests. I think it's odd that they both reported that factory ammunition "normally having a higher bullet pull than handloaded ammunition," but also that the solution is only 2 to 3 thou. I don't see handloaded ammunition likely having less than 1 to 2 thou, so if the factory ammunition already had more than that, how would 2 to 3 thou solve the problem?

My own conclusion is that it is fair play to lightly crimp the case mouth into bullets that have a crimp groove and this will contribute to preventing bullet jump. Recognizing that crimp grooves are detrimental to accuracy and that Match bullets or any bullets from which we can expect the greatest accuracy will not have a crimp groove, we will have to prevent bullet jump with neck tension because denting the bullet can only be horrible to accuracy potential. How much neck tension is needed and whether that is achieved by a bushing size, an expander size, the neck diameter prior to seating, or if it requires a certain neck hardness achieved through annealing or not annealing might have to be determined through testing of the particular brass, bullet and rifle.

I intend to test my cartridges in like fashion as Sierra:
  1. Measure OAL..
  2. Release the bolt at full force to strip a cartridge off the top of the magazine and slam it into battery.
  3. Eject the cartridge by hand and measure any inertial bullet jump.
  4. Fire a cartridge and let the action strip the next cartridge off the top of the magazine and slam it into battery at the action's speed.
  5. Eject the cartridge by hand and measure any inertial bullet jump.
I wrote "OAL" but I would be careful to measure the delta on each cartridge and not assume all the cartridges have the same OAL since bullets vary in length and seaters usually seat on the ogive. A bullet comparator insert could be used to minimize variance due to bullet lengths but simply accounting for each before and after measurement suffices.
 
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I have a feeling this is going to involve buying more bushings. Somehow that doesn't surprise me.
 
The only variable changed was the crimp. Sometimes "noise" is meaningful.

If you shoot 5 groups back to back with even the best .224" FMJ bullets, you'll get group variations roughly similar to the video.

I have a box of .223 sitting on the shelf loaded with Hornady 55gr FMJs over H335 sitting on the shelf. Maybe in a couple of weeks I'll have the time to shoot them through my accurate AR, 5 groups back to back, to prove the point.
 
The only variable changed was the crimp. Sometimes "noise" is meaningful.

The “noise” was absolutely terrible shooting from all instances, with no statistically defensible difference between them. Garbage in, garbage out.
 
If you shoot 5 groups back to back with even the best .224" FMJ bullets, you'll get group variations roughly similar to the video.
Think about what you just typed as you ponder what that fellow was trying to prove.
Like I said, sometimes "noise" is meaningful*.

*Crimp had no appreciable effect.
 
Think about what you just typed as you ponder what that fellow was trying to prove.
Like I said, sometimes "noise" is meaningful*.

*Crimp had no appreciable effect.

I guess I'm confused, because he didn't prove "no appreciable effect." He used inaccurate bullets and proved nothing you can do with them makes them any worse. I'm saying he could've gotten the exact same spread of group sizes with those components by doing absolutely nothing different from the first group to the last group. Here's the thing about even "good" FMJ bullets: some people say they're capable of shooting a 100 on an SR target (not an especially difficult accuracy standard, call it 3.5-MOA), but nobody who is capable of shooting those scores is trusting FMJ bullets to do it.

I suppose I could find a LEE FCD and apply it at different crimp settings to the 52-grain Hornady HPBTs I have loaded up, or maybe a batch of 69-grain Sierra Matchkings, and it will prove that damaging decent bullets with a crimp DOES impact group size.

Edited: OK, I see where you've "got" me. But I'm still saying the "accuracy" test proved nothing.
 
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