Lee classic Turret press info needed

Status
Not open for further replies.
Ok guys I have been given a lot of info here and I am thinking about getting the lee pro disc powder measure as the charge bar does not sound like a good option in my mind any advice you all can give me would be appreciated thanks
If you get a couple of extra disks with cavities slightly below the charge weight you desire, you can (very carefully) ream out a cavity to drop just the powder charge you want. It might be laborious, but worth it once it is done.

Be sure to indelibly mark the disk and the cavity as having been modified. Years from now you (if you forget), or whoever gets it after you will want to know. Shouldn't be necessary, as one should ALWAYS verify with a scale the amount of powder dropped by any powder measure.

Lost Sheep
 
Can anyone answer me this why does no one make a metal little square ratchet bushing I think that is what that little plastic black Achilles heel is :banghead: :cuss: I mean even if lee offered it as a separate part I would buy it are there any machinist in the room who can answer me this would it be that hard to make?
 
Can anyone answer me this why does no one make a metal little square ratchet bushing?

When things get bound up or out of alignment I would much rather have a 50 cent plastic piece break then get dies all messed up. Sometimes I think they designed this into the press. But on the same note I have loaded about 10,000 rounds or better on mine and have never broke one. purchased a bunch of extra when I got the press becuase everyone said they would break.
 
Rule3 - you never mentioned the charge bar in you initial post, so it is all after the fact..

The only reason I know that you would consider that an important retort is if you are annoyed that anyone would comment on one of your posts or one of your replies. I explained it thoroughly enough, like an adult, and will now do my own withdrawal.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by horsemen61 View Post
Can anyone answer me this why does no one make a metal little square ratchet bushing?

The same reason they put a fuse/breaker in your electric wiring.
I did not even have a concept of how the LCT worked when I bought mine about three years ago. I have no mechanical skills. I am still on the original thingy.

If I could have only one press it would be the LCT with the Safety Prime and Pro Auto Disk.
 
"Don't mention the rope in the house of the hangman" :D. There's a saying in my country that states that. I guess it's easy to understand and nothing gets lost in translation.

I own one. Got home last week. My reloading bench is on the way, too, but until I get my reloading permit (yes, we need that here, stupid European gun laws) I can't buy components and start reloading. And I'm biting my nails hard :D.

All I read and watched about it is good. Looks pretty solid and I think there's no better bang for the buck out there. I got the kit, and even the so much bashed Lee Scale doesn't seem that difficult to use to me.

My question is regarding brass. I have a good bunch of once fired 9 mm brass. Most of it is Magtech but there's some Fiocchi and S&B in between. I have cleaned it in the washing machine when my girlfriend wasn't watching :rolleyes: because I can't stand (and probably my neighbours wouldn't, too... I live in an apartment) the tumbler's noise. The results are good for me. They came out very clean. Dried them afterwards either in the sun or with a hair dryer. I know that, technically, Lee dies do not require lubrication, but with the kit there's a nice tube of lubricant, and I'm wondering whether it would be a good idea to lube those cases prior to resizing. Do you guys think it wouldn't hurt, or would you just skip that step and save the lubricant for the future?.
 
Did you mean 5 minutes or 5 seconds?

Lost Sheep
I dare not say or I will be corrected.:) Never actually pput it on a stop watch but it is very easy and fast.

Lets go with 5 minutes. Take of Disc powder measure, remove turret, put on new turret with dies, screw in powder measure,put in correct disc, pour in powder. Done.

Please allow extra time to fiddle with adjusting charge bar to correct +/- ,4 grains of powder;)
 
I know that, technically, Lee dies do not require lubrication, but with the kit there's a nice tube of lubricant, and I'm wondering whether it would be a good idea to lube those cases prior to resizing. Do you guys think it wouldn't hurt, or would you just skip that step and save the lubricant for the future?.

The lube is pretty much for rifle or necked cases. If you want to lube some handgun you can but I wouldn't do more them ever 20 or so cases. As far as a tumbler if you buy a better brand (Horandy) or the type that is a little more expensive you would be surprised how quiet these are. When I lived in a trailer all I had was a lyman tumbler and I would put it in a closet on a timmer to turn on in the middle of the night and it never bugged my family and that thing is noisy. I recently got a used Horandy and am really surprised how quiet that thing is. In a closet I don't think I could even hear it if I tried.
 
Can anyone answer me this why does no one make a metal little square ratchet bushing I think that is what that little plastic black Achilles heel is I mean even if lee offered it as a separate part I would buy it are there any machinist in the room who can answer me this would it be that hard to make?

That little plastic piece will last for years - as long as you DON'T try to turn the turret by hand with the ram all the way down! This has been mentioned several times, just don't do this and the ratchet will be fine. It will wear out eventually of course, this is why I bought 6 of them from Lee - to have some spares.

A metal one would be asking for trouble. It's plastic for a reason, so it will "give" and fail in the event of a bind-up instead of something else being damaged. Just like a fuse. And yes, it would be a tough (and expensive) part to make from metal.
 
Ok guys a lot of numbers have been thrown out there I would like to archive 100 loaded rounds an hour is this possible?
 
I dare not say or I will be corrected.:) Never actually pput it on a stop watch but it is very easy and fast.

Lets go with 5 minutes. Take of Disc powder measure, remove turret, put on new turret with dies, screw in powder measure,put in correct disc, pour in powder. Done.

Please allow extra time to fiddle with adjusting charge bar to correct +/- ,4 grains of powder;)
Ahhh... The ancillary activities.

I can change my turret with dies in about 5-10 seconds. But if you have to switch out your powder measure (that is, if you don't have a measure mounted on each setup) or even just swap disks and recalibrate for the powder drop, and the other little setup things you have to do, yeah, minutes.

I have not timed myself, but I can go from all my gear boxed and in storage to loading rounds in about 10 minutes, I expect. That includes staging my supplies, zeroing my scale and verifying my powder drops. And, yeah. probably 5-10 minutes from the last round of one chambering to dropping the first round of a different chambering. But simply swapping out the turret/dies is literally a few seconds.

Thanks for clarifying.

Lost Sheep
 
Ok guys a lot of numbers have been thrown out there I would like to archive 100 loaded rounds an hour is this possible?
The first time I ran any quantity through my brand-new Lee Classic Turret, I did 100 rounds in 47 minutes. That included replenshing the powder and primers, so no shortcuts there.

It did not include any setup, as I did that beforehand. Also, calibrating the powder measure was done beforehand and checking the powder drop only at the beginning and end of the run.

It did include boxing the finished product.

Thus, I could maintain 100 rounds per hour all day long if I wanted and give myself a 26 minute break every two hours.

And that was my first time out.

Lost Sheep
 
Ahhh... The ancillary activities.

I can change my turret with dies in about 5-10 seconds. But if you have to switch out your powder measure (that is, if you don't have a measure mounted on each setup) or even just swap disks and recalibrate for the powder drop, and the other little setup things you have to do, yeah, minutes.

I have not timed myself, but I can go from all my gear boxed and in storage to loading rounds in about 10 minutes, I expect. That includes staging my supplies, zeroing my scale and verifying my powder drops. And, yeah. probably 5-10 minutes from the last round of one chambering to dropping the first round of a different chambering. But simply swapping out the turret/dies is literally a few seconds.

Thanks for clarifying.

Lost Sheep

Yes, just changing the turret to another caliber is pop it off and put on another 5 seconds or so.

Changing the powder measure over takes a bit longer. After unscrewing and putting it on another set of dies, fill with powder it is always good to throw some and weigh them to make sure all is correct using either the discs or charge bar. I still weigh every 10 or so after. Check seating depth and crimp measure OAL etc. Regardless it is still easy and fast. The whole reloading thing should not be a rush job.

As to rounds per hour, yes, a 100 is very doable at a relaxed pace. (this is priming on the press also) Even if you push it and go faster than you should you may get 125-150.
 
@dab102999;

Copy that, thank you ;).

In another thread I read that some guys mixed a bit of this LEE lubricant in alcohol or silicone spray when the cases were too clean. I'll first try without lubing, and if I find it too hard to resize I'll try that.

It's great that one can learn this much in this forum! :D
 
Once I got familiar with the process running at 150-175 rounds per hour on my LCT is easy to do at my VERY relaxed pace.

One thing that kinda gets lost in a lot of these type discussions is that at least for me, reloading is a hobby, not a piece-work job - LOL. I am NOT in a 'hurry' to finish reloading, I took up the dog-gone hobby to fill my free time with an enjoyable activity. I don't fish 'fast' either - I have never timed how quickly I can change a lure or tie on a new snelled hook - lol

As to presses, they are IMHO all quite good and if you match your realistic ammo needs and budget with a machine you will be very happy and most all of them will last a lifetime. I often post that the great thing about reloading is that there IS a way for everyone on every budget to particpate, from the Lee $30 whack-a-mole Loader to the $30,000 Camdex and everything in between.
 
@dab102999;

Copy that, thank you ;).

In another thread I read that some guys mixed a bit of this LEE lubricant in alcohol or silicone spray when the cases were too clean. I'll first try without lubing, and if I find it too hard to resize I'll try that.

It's great that one can learn this much in this forum! :D
I use the LEE lube mixed with 91% rubbing alcohol. Ratio of about 1 part lube to 10 parts alcohol. You need to shake it real well every time as it will seperate. Put it in a used small spray lube bottle and spritz the brass in a plastic tray. Does not take much, Makes rezing very smooth and easy even with carbide dies,

It's water soluble and does not need to be cleaned off, but if you want to use a damp cloth.
 
FWIW - I bought a big plastic tray that was meant for putting several potted houseplants on to catch the drainage. It's perfect for spreading out a LOT of cases of any kind so I can spray them. Another good lube is 1 oz. of pure lanolin, melted and mixed with 12oz. of isopropyl alcohol and put in a spray bottle.
 
Ok guys I have a question how does the micro charge bar work with the powder measure thanks guys
 
ok thanks and it is just for fine tuning very small less than a grain amounts right
 
Ok guys I have a question how does the micro charge bar work with the powder measure thanks guys

It replaces the auto disc and has an adjustable aperture, which works best at around 5 grains and up of the average pistol powder. You can adjust the aperture while the charge bar is mounted, so you can keep weighing sample charges until you get it dialed into about +-.1 gr. You need to do a follow up weight check after a few rounds, because the powder can cling to the parts and reduce the load. Today I wiped all the powder contact points with a used dryer sheet on a Qtip and had less clinging of powder.

Of course, you can always boost the charge to get back to the weight, then leaving some powder clinging to the aperture. It kind of stabilizes. It helps to drop 10 charges and pour them back, rechecking weights, before actually loading anything.

This is the currently available "adjustable charge bar". There is no "micro" available that I know of.
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top