Lee Pro 1000

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Vrod1023 said:
Hi I read your post with interest as I am completely new to reloading and have purchased a Lee Pro 1000. I have broken 3 chains so I would like to know whether the spring you mention below can be used on the Pro 1000 as a return spring to the powder measure.
Click to expand...
Sure, That's a Pro 1000 in the 1st pic
Here's another pic of MY Pro 1000 with the spring return setup:
PmSpring.JPG
I think there is a hole in the top plate that I hooked the spring into.
Edit: and get a riser if you don't have one, it makes a big difference.
Lee Powder Measure Riser - Titan Reloading
 
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I'm still using my Pro Auto Disc that came with my Pro 1000 that I bought in the early 90s. Like most others, I quit using the press for anything other than deprimming cases. It since has gotten chucked under my loading bench somewhere. I'm sure the newer ones had to work better than these originals did.
My powder measure worked well from the start.
I put a weight on mine to keep it in home position. I am still using this 26 year old pro auto disc measure on my ABLP.
ABLP with pro auto disc.jpg
You can see the weight hanging from the lever on the pro auto disc measure. That is only to keep it in home position. The neck sizer sticks enough in the case on the down stroke that it returns the powder measure every time to home position.
I always liked the ball handle on the pro 1000 so I put it on the ABLP. Works well.
 
Tilos said:
Sure, That's a Pro 1000 in the 1st pic
Here's another pic of MY Pro 1000 with the spring return setup:
View attachment 1039172
I think there is a hole in the top plate that I hooked the spring into.
Edit: and get a riser if you don't have one, it makes a big difference.
Lee Powder Measure Riser - Titan Reloading
Click to expand...
Thanks Tilos for your response and the extra advice. I will be beginning the search for a spring - you won't believe it but in 2021 alot of companies still do not have their products on a website so it will be like looking for a needle in a haystack.
 
tightgroup tiger said:
I'm still using my Pro Auto Disc that came with my Pro 1000 that I bought in the early 90s. Like most others, I quit using the press for anything other than deprimming cases. It since has gotten chucked under my loading bench somewhere. I'm sure the newer ones had to work better than these originals did.
My powder measure worked well from the start.
I put a weight on mine to keep it in home position. I am still using this 26 year old pro auto disc measure on my ABLP.
View attachment 1039259
You can see the weight hanging from the lever on the pro auto disc measure. That is only to keep it in home position. The neck sizer sticks enough in the case on the down stroke that it returns the powder measure every time to home position.
I always liked the ball handle on the pro 1000 so I put it on the ABLP. Works well.
Click to expand...
That is a great idea! Looks like a fishing weight so another idea I will try, thanks!
 
tightgroup tiger said:
I'm still using my Pro Auto Disc that came with my Pro 1000 that I bought in the early 90s. Like most others, I quit using the press for anything other than deprimming cases. It since has gotten chucked under my loading bench somewhere. I'm sure the newer ones had to work better than these originals did.
My powder measure worked well from the start.
I put a weight on mine to keep it in home position. I am still using this 26 year old pro auto disc measure on my ABLP.
View attachment 1039259
You can see the weight hanging from the lever on the pro auto disc measure. That is only to keep it in home position. The neck sizer sticks enough in the case on the down stroke that it returns the powder measure every time to home position.
I always liked the ball handle on the pro 1000 so I put it on the ABLP. Works well.
Click to expand...
By the way, what is the weight of that weight?
 
OK, I am going to contradict some advice given here. Do not replace the chain with a spring/weight whatever before you realize what it is there for.

If you are using the chain, and it is set up properly, it is impossible for you to double-charge a case unless you purposefully reverse-index the shellplate.
If you are using a spring, accidentally short-stroking the press (Taking the ram halfway down, then back up) will double-charge the case every time.

If you run a case up crooked with the chain, and it does not go into the die, you should lower the ram slightly, fix the shell, and raise the press.
If you run a case up crooked with the spring, and it does not go into the die, you should clear the press and start over.

I have used Pro 1000s successfully since before the chain was an option. I never had a double-charge, but I did pull a lot of bullets because I wasn't sure if I short stroked the press one time.

If you are careful, and know what you are doing, and are a methodical person, the spring is OK. If you are a novice reloader that does not have the "all the way up, all the way down" muscle memory of reloading on a progressive, figure out the chain.

On that: The powder measure should move freely with not much force.
For best results, use brass chain, get more from Lowe's in the ceiling fan section. Get extra lnks and "bells".
As someone said above, under the shellplate sould be a bell and the spring.
At the top, you should loop the chain in one hole on the top and out the other. Adjust tenstion so that the spring tension operates the powder measure, not the chain directly.
Now for a trick: the first time the chain breaks, put a link in between the shellplate and the oprod for the powder measure. If the measure gets stuck or something odd happens, the connecting link will generally let go before the chain breaks.
Easy to put back together, you may need to squeeze it a little. to make it hold after awhile.
The chain does not need to be a guitar string, it just needs to move the powder measure.
 
My experience with Lee 1000 and loadmaster machines were extensive with 9mm,38speial, 357 magnum, 45 acp.

I was a know it all 15 year old when I got my first 1000, the first change I made of my own observation was to ditch the chain return for powder slide return. It's a terrible idea and one that should be done away with in Lou of a permanent spring return.

These presses like any progressive press need to be sparking clean, I would honestly only feed the press de primed, resized, wet tumbled brass. I had a lot of issues with priming because all the crab that falls out of primers pocket goes down into the priming mechanism.

To address your index issues i would dissamble unit, deep clean, lube all index spots especially the plastic ring.

I did not wear out the 1000 just my patience and that is why I only use dillon rl1000 presses and star universals.

Good luck with your 1000
 
Mine were (are) both loadmasters. The priming system never wants to work correctly, often misaligned. I found it nessesary to perform sizing & priming on a different press anyway. It's just too cheaply made. It has aluminum where it should have steel & plastic where it should have aluminum. Lee handgun dies are pretty good tools, but there presses are just not up to standard. Some people are emotionally connected to there tool choices, so I'm going to don my flame suit now.
 
rfwobbly said:
Pro-1000 was Lee's first shot at a progressive press ... I think they introduced that press about 1995. So you can't look at that product and compare it to a press designed and made in 2021.
Click to expand...
Lee redesigned and updated the Pro 1000 in 2019.

Pro 1000 now has flat base along with through-ram spent primer collection like Classic Turret and die placement rotated for better view/access and indexing holes in shell plate to eliminate shell plate indexing issue which should help with priming attachment that was not changed. IME, proper shell plate index timing, smooth primer attachment chute without damage/gouging and domestic sized primers (CCI, Winchester) along with Magtech primers produced trouble-free priming (Of course, out of indexing, damaged/gouged chute and use of larger Metric sized primers aggravated priming issues).
 
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KY DAN said:
I had a lot of issues with priming because all the [crap] that falls out of primers pocket goes down into the priming mechanism.
Click to expand...
This was a design flaw but you can readily address by putting a simple cover over the top of the primer chute to prevent powder granules from entering the primer attachment.

index.php


KY DAN said:
To address your index issues i would [dissemble] unit, deep clean, lube all index spots especially the plastic ring.
Click to expand...
Lubrication of plastic index gear that rides up and down the center hex rod (Lee calls it "action rod") is key to proper index operation that I wish Lee emphasized on their instructional videos and documentation.

I lubricate the rod with a drop of oil on my finger tip and again whenever indexing of shell plate becomes less smooth.

Here's a step-by-step prep and lubrication along with QC check list to ensure reliable operation of Pro 1000 - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...lutions-no-bashing.507454/page-6#post-9614898

maxxhavoc said:
OK, I am going to contradict some advice given here. Do not replace the chain with a spring/weight whatever before you realize what it is there for.
Click to expand...
When using Pro Auto Disk with the chain, many people forget to put the small spring at the bottom which allows the disk to be pulled completely forward to receive the "full charge" of powder from the hopper without breaking the bead chain.

Another benefit of using the chain is less force/stress you put on the elastomer wiper at the bottom of the powder hopper. If disk sliding is forced, you can damage the wiper lips and consistent powder metering can be affected and wiper may need to be replaced.

Whether you use the chain or spring, like so many contact surfaces on any press, the top of sliding disk and bottom wiper surface need to be lubricated with graphite powder or finely shaved No 2 pencil lead. Properly lubricated, wiper can provide decades of service of metering powder consistently (My PADs will meter Sport Pistol with around .05 gr variance and most other powders with .1 gr variance).
 
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Vrod1023 said:
Thanks Tilos for your response and the extra advice. I will be beginning the search for a spring - you won't believe it but in 2021 a lot of companies still do not have their products on a website so it will be like looking for a needle in a haystack.
Click to expand...

Your local hardware or big box home store should have an assortment of tension springs that will work for this.

And as a side note, a case bumping the sizing die can be felt and can be remedied by simply pushing the case "on center", all without short stroking.
There is no fix I know of to correct or eliminate operator error, whether it be short stroking or applying more pressure when an unusual resistance is felt.
I have 5 different progressives (none are Dillon), use a pro disc on them all, and have 4 Uniflo measures (and their clap trap linkage) gathering dust on a shelf in my loading room.
Most don't realize that Dillion pays LEE a royalty to use the LEE powder drop design.
Pic of presses on a shelf, awaiting a turn on the bench...
index.php

I don't use that "other" Lee measure in that pic :uhoh:

Most problems with EVERY progressive can be traced back to the filth from depriming that is spread around/into the mechanisms of the press.
I deprime before wet tumbling as it eliminates most problems in progressive reloading.
jmo,
 
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kmw1954 said:
Bcwitt said:
I had 2 different lee progressives. I've never seen either of them work the way it should.
Click to expand...
Pro1000 and a Pro4000 and they both work completely and as flawlessly as they should. Pretty simple machines really. Don't know why so many have such a problem with them.
Click to expand...
We have identified various Pro 1000 shortcomings on various support threads and essentially resolved all the issues so Pro 1000 could be operated and maintained more reliably - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/lee-pro-1000.862319/#post-11364610

What we have found with those having issues with Pro 1000 was that initial set up and "required" lubrication (Especially of center index hex rod) were not done properly and resulting damage done to the primer chute slide surface of gouging aggravated the shell plate index and primer feeding into Station #2 that inevitably produced more tilted and flipped primers. (Of course, using larger Metric sized primers don't help either) - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...lutions-no-bashing.507454/page-3#post-7877744

Picture shows priming rod not fully retracted causing primer to tilt to contact bottom of shell plate and locking up indexing while gouging primer chute slide surface (And if you force the ram lever, primer attachment slide surface will be damaged and will need either burnishing of slide surface or replacement of primer attachment for proper operation ... And no, things will only get worse if you continue to operate the press at this point)

index.php
 
Vrod1023 said:
I am completely new to reloading and have purchased a Lee Pro 1000. I have broken 3 chains so I would like to know whether the spring you mention below can be used on the Pro 1000 as a return spring to the powder measure.
Click to expand...
Welcome to THR and the wonderful world of reloading some of us consider a passion.

If you are breaking the chain, your Pro Auto Disk is not set up properly.

With the shell plate carrier at the bottom of ram cycle, pull down on the chain to return the disk back under the powder hopper.

Now (This is important), make sure you use the small spring at the end of chain so when the ram lever returns the shell plate carrier to the bottom, chain returns the disk back but instead of breaking, the small spring will compress.

Now, enjoy your Pro 1000. :)

At 1:00 minute of the Lee Precision factory video, it shows installing the small spring for the Pro Auto Disk.

 
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Tilos said:
Most don't realize that Dillion pays LEE a royalty to use the LEE powder drop design.
Click to expand...

The case-activated powder measure was invented and patented by Richard Lee.
Every manufacturer that makes and sells a case-activated measure pays royalties to Lee.
Dillon, RCBS, Hornady; all of them.

In his book Modern Reloading, Lee writes about all the companies trying to pirate his design, and his taking them to court. And winning.

He states that none of wanted to pay, but they all did in the end.
 
LiveLife said:
Welcome to THR and the wonderful world of reloading some of us consider a passion.

If you are breaking the chain, your Pro Auto Disk is not set up properly.

With the shell plate carrier at the bottom of ram cycle, pull down on the chain to return the disk back under the powder hopper.

Now (This is important), make sure you use the small spring at the end of chain so when the ram lever returns the shell plate carrier to the bottom, chain returns the disk back but instead of breaking, the small spring will compress.

Now, enjoy your Pro 1000. :)

At 1:00 minute of the Lee Precision factory video, it shows installing the small spring for the Pro Auto Disk.

Click to expand...

Thank you for your instructions and video. I was threading it through the inner hole first so I tried it the right way round and in the end the chain broke again. This week I went in search of a spring and found some.
 

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Vrod1023 said:
I was threading it through the inner hole first so I tried it the right way round and in the end the chain broke again.
Click to expand...
Then the disk was binding before returning fully under the hopper wiper. You may have tightened the two brass thumb nuts too tight for disk to slide freely under the wiper. Properly lubed and adjusted wiper should allow the disk to slide under with light finger touch pressure (And likely why you kept breaking the bead chain, even with the spring at the end).

Lubricating the hopper wiper surface with graphite powder (Or finely shaved No 2 pencil lead rubbed on paper) is essential to not rub the wiper against top of disk surface too hard and to not damage the wiper surface.

Use of spring instead of chain may overcome the binding friction force between wiper and top of disk but continued use may damage the wiper surface that could lead to inconsistent powder charge drops.

Regardless whether you choose to use the spring or go back to bead chain, I would inspect the wiper surface and if not damaged, lubricate properly (Should be blackened) and apply light tightness on the brass thumb nuts that allows the disk to slide almost freely.
 
Folks I am fully aware of what is going on here and must add that all of this is the reason I do not use the chain return on any of my presses.

There are two different design systems available for this measure. The Original that was/is used with the revolving turret presses and then the Pro Model which comes with the Chain.

Here is a Lee printed instruction sheet for the measure and if you look in the top right corner you can find an example of both. I do use the short lever with the compression spring attached and never have any problems. As a matter of fact I own 4 of them, one Pro that has been converted to the short lever and 2 that have been upgraded to the Pro Kit et again still retaining the short lever and spring.
https://leeprecision.com/files/instruct/AD3398.pdf
 
LiveLife said:
Then the disk was binding before returning fully under the hopper wiper. You may have tightened the two brass thumb nuts too tight for disk to slide freely under the wiper. Properly lubed and adjusted wiper should allow the disk to slide under with light finger touch pressure (And likely why you kept breaking the bead chain, even with the spring at the end).

Lubricating the hopper wiper surface with graphite powder (Or finely shaved No 2 pencil lead rubbed on paper) is essential to not rub the wiper against top of disk surface too hard and to not damage the wiper surface.

Use of spring instead of chain may overcome the binding friction force between wiper and top of disk but continued use may damage the wiper surface that could lead to inconsistent powder charge drops.

Regardless whether you choose to use the spring or go back to bead chain, I would inspect the wiper surface and if not damaged, lubricate properly (Should be blackened) and apply light tightness on the brass thumb nuts that allows the disk to slide almost freely.
Click to expand...
Appreciate the advice. I don't know what the wiper is but I'm guessing it is the white plastic thing at the end of the hopper?
 
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