Lee Pro 6000 unboxing and testing for OAL consistency

My Pro 6000 finally arrived.






I am in the process of redoing the reloading area and replacing the 2'x3' portable bench that was PIF (Thinking about this one from Home Depot) so decided to temporarily mount the press on the 2'x2' portable bench I used for resizing/depriming pistol brass (Short bench does fine for resizing/depriming brass but bench priming requires stepping on the bottom shelf).




Top of bench was made from boxed 2x4 frame with CDX plywood on top but reinforced with another 2x4 underneath the press. Two bottom bolt holes run all the way through 4" side of 2x4 and large fender washers were used in conjunction with flat washers to not compress the wood.




There's onboard tool storage for bushing wrench and Allen wrench

 

New priming system: (Why Pro 6000 works with all primer brands, including foreign metric primers with slightly larger diameter cup, explained under "Primer feed operation")



Small primer guide (Dimple on round part - Metal part that grabs and moves primer) was already installed with the 9mm Pro 6000 kit but the plastic bag in the box contained another set of primer guides, both small and large.




Primer feed operation:

• At Station #2, there is a cutout with hole in the shellplate carrier through which priming rod moves up and down (This is how new priming system aligns primer with the shellplate that is indexed with pin running through from the shellplate carrier - So as pin enters the holes in the shellplate, primer is aligned/centered with the primer pocket of case in the shellplate)
• Under normal operation, primer guide will grab a primer and slide it into Station #2 and as shellplate carrier reaches the bottom, primer will be pushed up by priming rod and prime the case
• If there is no case, primer will drop back down and primer guide will pull primer back and slide primer back and forth on the slider
• CCI SP primer worked reliably with mixed range brass of different headstamp brass
• Metric SP primers (S&B, PMC) worked reliably with mixed range brass of different headstamp brass

Primer seating depth:

• Primer is seated as bottom of priming rod contacts the top of press base plate
• Primer seating depth is determined by "push" pressure on the ram lever
• Light push on the ram lever seated CCI SP to .002" below flush
• Firm push on the ram lever seated CCI SP to .004" below flush
• Light push on the ram lever seated S&B/PMC SP primers to flush
• Firm push on the ram lever seated S&B/PMC SP primers to .003" below flush
• Extra firm push on the ram lever seated PMC SP primer to .005" below flush

CCI SP seated to .004" below flush in FC case, S&B SP seated to .003" below flush in R-P case, PMC SP seated to .005" below flush in WIN case, PMC seated to .003" below flush in Blazer/R-P cases

 

Good info, thanks.

From where did you buy the 6000?

 

Looks like the linkage and ram is as heavy duty as the LCT. It’s more robust than the ABLP— but the ABLP seems entirely adequate. I just like the thicker ram and spent primer tube attachment better on the LCT and the 6-pack.

It will be interesting to see what you use all the stations for! Thanks for the report.

 

From Lee directly. It was a pre-order that got delayed when Lee found an issue with their pre-production casting.

ABLP is designed for pistol and short rifle cartridges like .223/.300 BLK/7.62x39.

Six Pack Pro is designed to load pistol and longer rifle cartridges.

 

Finished OAL consistency:

• To remove other reloading variables, I sorted 9mm R-P cases (Newer cases with rounded rim edge) by resized lengths
• Resized R-P case lengths ranged from slightly shorter than .750" to .754" with most being .750"-.752"
• 20 sample cases were selected for OAL variance test (10 cases around .750" and 10 cases .751"-.752")
• RMR 115 gr FMJ RN sized around .3555" were used
• Case mouth was flared to .380" using shorter .750" case length at Station #5
• .378" taper crimp was used using shorter .750" case length
• (NOTE: I use shorter case length to set flare and taper crimp as longer cases will produce greater flare/taper crimp amount)
• Bullets were seated and taper crimped in same step at Station #6

OAL measurements for case lengths around .750":

• 2 rounds measured 1.125"
• 6 rounds measured 1.126"
• 2 rounds measured 1.127"

OAL measurements for cases .751"-.752":

• 1 round measured 1.125"
• 1 round measured 1.126"
• 8 rounds measured 1.127"

 

That was my first thought, too, but the 3 with "dimples" are all PMC primers. Close up looks more like an embossed 3 or E or m. Maybe LiveLife will clue us in.

 

The "dimples" are not caused by the priming rod.

They are PMC primers marked with small "E" to denote Non-Toxic/Non-Corrosive and I guess envioronmental as they are "heavy metal free".

 

What are the indexing parts made of? Hopefully no plastic ratchets.

 

I had asked where you had bought the new 6000 press because I was curious if it was available yet. Thanks for letting me know that you got it from Lee. Well, coincidentally today I received a notification from Titan Reloading that it is now available for purchase. I guess it's ready for prime time!

 

If they land just right in a Glock chamber, they’ll eject with an “IE.” I predict that will b a future thread (or ten or twenty) on THR/H&R forums. “I found these primers marked IE, what are they?”

 

Well, to be honest, these days you might not want to hope too fervently. There are and have been for a long time plastics out there that are stronger than steel. As the Global Post-Pandemic Crises continue (insert ominous music here) some of those ancient recipes are resurfacing as more economical “environmentally friendly” alternatives. In 1941, Henry Ford used industrial hemp plastic to construct a car. The material is at least 2.5 times stronger than steel. It gained popularity in the former Soviet Union as a cheap alternative to steel but never really caught on here. Well, now using Hemp-based products is cool. And, they work. And that’s just one example.

 

Yep, they are "here".

And I am guessing his is a "production" model after the process he went through.

GD

 

Is the indexing system “adjustment free” when changing shell plates like the ABLP ? Or does it require readjustment like the Pro 1000?

 

After yesterday's unboxing and initial look over, I spent the day looking at press operations more in detail and found these things.

New priming system continued - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...operational-consistency.911743/#post-12442618

Minimum number of primers in chute required - Primer chute/trough fed CCI SP primers reliably until there were three (3) left. So keeping primer chute at least half full should ensure reliable primer feeding.

These are bottoms of small and large metal primer guides (Marked with "S/dimple" and "L") with ribbed plastic sliders marked "1" and "2" (But they look exactly same and accept both primer guides). Cross bar at the end of slider bottom hits a protrusion in the primer slide channel to keep it from sliding off (And this end needs to be lifted up to clear the protrusion for removal of slider - Which is not necessary for guide replacement ... More on this below).




The new priming system uses staggered "double stack" primer chute (Lee calls it "primer trough"). When the primer is on the right side of the stack, it is readily picked up as primer guide slides from right to left. But after delivering a primer to Station #2, ribs on plastic slider rubs on the bottom primer on the left side of stack and moves it to the right. Then as the primer guide slides from right to left, primer guide readily picks up the primer which is now on the right side of chute.

Picture below shows primer in the guide was on the left side of chute but was moved to the right side by ribs on the slider (Next primer in the chute is on the right side of the stack)



As the primer/guide moves past the chute, next primer in the chute is moved to the left only to be moved back right as slider ribs ride past.




Small and Large primer guide replacement - As mentioned earlier, plastic slider doesn't need to be removed to change out small/large primer guide. There is a hole in the bottom of primer slide channel by left side of primer chute where a small Allen wrench can be used to push primer guide up.



Perhaps that's why the tool caddy has a small hole to the right of hex hole for the shellplate Allen wrench

 

Full step-by-step press disassembly and reassembly - (After fully disassembling and reassembling the press, I realized perhaps reading the instructions could have helped. So what you have been reading so far and next disassembly/reassembly is typical "Who needs to read the instructions" saga. )

NOTE: Pro 6000 kit came with bushing wrench (Lee calls it "Die wrench") and Allen wrench shown at top left of picture. Only other tool I needed was a small stubby Phillips screwdriver.

NOTE: Likely normal use of press won't require complete disassembly of press but outlined here for future reference.






1. Detach case slider spring - Unscrew pan head screw from front hole of slider. Push spring up into the case feed hole to keep it out of the way.




2. Detach primer slider spring - Raise the shellplate carrier up and bend the spring for end hook to clear the hole in the primer slider through the slot





3. Remove shell plate - This is same process as ABLP

• Lower shellplate carrier to bottom
• Remove Station #4 bushing with bushing wrench and pull out index rod
• Lift the case ejector to remove
• Insert Allen wrench in the center hole and turn it clockwise to loosen shellplate (BUT I found the shellplate loose ... So I will be repeating my finished round OAL variance test after reassembly)

TIP: Those buying SPP/Pro 6000, do a quick check to see if shellplate is loose before conducting a reloading session





4. Remove top shellplate carrier (Lee calls it "carrier cover") and drop bottom plastic cover - This process involves separating the top shellplate carrier from the bottom black plastic cover which are held together by two flat head screws accessible from the top and one pan head screw accessible from the bottom.

• Remove red finished round bin
• Raise shellplate carrier up to lift out black plastic bin holder/tool caddy and loosen pan head screw from bottom
• Lower shellplate carrier and loosen two flat head screws with Phillips screwdriver

• Carefully lift the top shellplate carrier and tilt the back up so primer attachment could clear the frame supports (Note: Keep track of detent ball on top of spring so you don't loose it)

• Raise shellplate carrier body with ram lever to access bottom plastic cover with detent ball/spring, priming rod/spring and index spindle/plastic gear

And here's the carrier body factory bolted to ram at Station #1




5. Remove primer chute/trough - There are two tabs at the bottom of plastic end that protrude into slots cut in the primer slider channel/trough. It's in there tight and requires some forceful rocking motion to remove. Since plastic tabs will wear with each removal/install, I do not recommend removing the primer chute/trough unless you are replacing the unit.




Bottom view of slot cutouts




6. Reassembly - Reassembly is essentially reverse of disassembly steps with following tips:

Reattach top shellplate carrier to bottom plastic cover:

• Raise shellplate carrier body with ram lever
• Install detent spring/ball, priming rod/spring, place index spindle on top of plastic gear inside the bottom cover
  
• Use the ram lever to lower the shellplate carrier body on top of the bottom cover and ensure detent ball and priming rod/spring are not knocked off
• Tilt the back of carrier top so primer attachment could clear the frame supports
• May need to hold the top/bottom carrier covers with one hand while tightening two flat head screws
• Raise carrier up to tighten the pan head screw from the bottom

Install shellplate:

• Lower shellplate carrier to bottom
• Place shellplate and finger tighten using counter-clockwise rotation
• Use Allen wrench to tighten shellplate
• Install case ejector
• Install index rod and tighten Station #4 bushing with bushing wrench
• Raise shellplate carrier up to install black plastic bin holder/tool caddy and lower carrier back down
• Attach red finished round bin

Attach primer slider spring - Raise the shellplate carrier up and bend the spring for end hook to clear the slot and into the hole in the primer slider


Attach case slider spring - Unscrew pan head screw from front hole of slider and tighten screw through end of spring.


Operate the ram lever several times to ensure all the press components are operating smoothly.

 

Looks good so far, How many rounds have you loaded on it so far? Really not that many parts to it.

 

The twisted flat steel bar and plastic gear with cross slots under the index spindle shellplate is attached to are what indexes the shellplate. It's plastic cross slots sliding on twisted flat steel bar but since the shellplate "free floats" while indexing, the plastic gears are not really under load.

It's "adjustment free" like ABLP.

About 50 rounds as I spent most of the day on detailed disassembly and reassembly.

 

Finished OAL consistency test continued - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...operational-consistency.911743/#post-12442742

Initial finished OAL variance was measured with loose shellplate from the factory. With the press fully disassembled and reassembled, OAL variance was checked again using the same die settings:

• 20 R-P headstamp cases resized around .750" were selected
• RMR 115 gr FMJ RN sized around .3555" were used
• Case mouth was flared to .380" at Station #5
• .378" taper crimp was used
• Bullets were seated and taper crimped in same step at Station #6

OAL measurements:

• 14 rounds measured 1.125"
• 6 rounds measured 1.126"

 

What a fantastic wright up and review, great work.

Think my next press is going to be a MEC, I think I need to get started on shotgun shells.

 

I agree with you 100% there are places where a given type of plastic is the best material for the job. However for every one of those there are 100,000 other uses of plastic that are just flat stupid.

I will go to my grave knowing that plastics are the single worst thing on the planet. We moved away from things that actually do recycle, like glass and paper (card board). Remember oil cans, paper, now we have plastic that heads to a land fill somewhere. And don't even try with the "recycle plastic" argument, do a little research, plastics do not recycle real well, the type in your water or pop bottles, nope.

Eh, I am going to get in trouble if I keep going, sorry.

 

Great write up and pics!!

 

Thanks for posting all this info
I solved this "last primer in the chute" by adding a pusher (wooden skewer) on my Pro 1000, that might work on the sixpack.
Mostly plastic and wood, with one steel part that could be fab'ed out of brass, all to minimize any sparking.

I hate leaving primers in the chute/tray when I'm finished loading.

Former steel rod in use:

More weight could be taped to the skewer if needed.
The skewer will end up above the priming pin once the last primer is used, so it needs to be watched.
jmo,
.