Lever actions

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And if you want brush busting calibers and don't mind carrying a heavier gun and want to make a statement, there's the legendary Sharps. Hey, it's a lever action too.

I wouldn't call any 1885/Ruger #1/Sharps a lever action in the sense they are used today. True, they do use a lever to move the breech block, but all those actions are known as falling blocks for a reason and all falling blocks are either single shots or double rifles to my knowledge. The closest Sharps ever got to producing a "lever action Sharps" was the 1879 Hepburn-Sharps single shot. C-Sharps reproduces it today on a per order basis. The Hepburn-Sharps action as made by C-Sharps today probably is equal to or even stronger than the Ruger #1 falling block single shot.

As for brush busting calibers, a Sharps will do. But, if I wanted a repeater in a true brush buster, it'd have to be an 1895 in 405 Winchester.
 
^That isn't a bad one either (though mine is a .30-06Spd.). FWIW, I wouldn't call the No. 1 (in most forms), 1885, or Win. 1895 a brush rifle, as they are fairly long and heavy (though they're certainly capable of getting the job done), whereas the Marlin 1895GG is perfect for the task.

:)
 
I've got three favorite lever-actions for heavy cover hunting: a Winchester Model 94, chambered in .30-30 Winchester and equipped with a Williams FoolProof receiver sight; a Winchester (Miroku repo) Model 1886 "Extra Lightweight", chambered in .45-70 Government and also equipped with the Williams peep sight and a Savage Model 99, chambered in .358 Winchester. The Savage is the only lever-action rifle I own that wears a scope and it is a 1.5X5 Redfield "WideField" mounted with a Weaver "PivotMount".
 
I'm picking up tomorrow a pre-safety Marlin 1984 I got through Gunbroker.


"They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety"- Benjamin Franklin
 
Rossi 92 trappers model in .44 mag big loop.
Short, stout, easy to carry all day, 8 rounds in the tube... :D
 
I don't care for levers in the woods as a rule (but I looooove my BL-22), but I really think an old Remington 141 pump in .35 is the most perfect woods rifle I've ever used.
 
Buy the cheapest used Marlin 336 you can find and three or four boxes of ammunition to practice with.
Resist the urge to scope it and instead slap a Williams WGRS sight on the reciever and go to town

+1...

but if you can... find an older one which has the side of the receiver tapped, then cough up the extra $20 for the Williams Fool Proof.
 
I have a Marlin 444 and a Winchester 94 30-30.I like the Winchester even though I dont have a scope on it as does The Marlin.I actually like the top eject on the 94 when they came out they weren't made for a scope and at range's made for that cartridge I see no use for one.I have never taken the 30-30 in the wood's it's waiting for my son just like new I haven't even shot a whole box of ammo through it.The 444 I used for 2 season's with no luck.
 
Odd that only 3 or 4 of the posters on this thread mention a Savage 99. From the day it was introduced....102 years ago....it was superior in design when compared to Winchester, Marlin and other lever actions. Stronger bolt, closed/covered hammer, an exquisite spooled magazine with counter and the ability to shoot pointed/spitzer bullets, side ejection (which allowed the use of scopes long before they were considered essential), nice handling in both shooting and carrying, etc., and so on.

And they certainly aren't any harder to reload for than any other gun, particularly the 30-30 with its legendary (notorious?) neck issues. On various visits to Alaska settlements, the 99 in 300 Savage, is almost ubiquitous in use for caribou and seals; many of the natives I talked to re-load their own. Those Alaska 99s were almost every-day tools, and despite their rough looks....that's really rough looks....worked every time (FWIW, they all wore peep sights).

The design of the Savage 99, for those who care, was one of the first Art Deco mass-produced items. Very elegant, yet superlative performance, even discounting Arthur Savage's penchant for hyperbole.

Further, since there were literally millions produced, it's relatively easy to find one. Most of them are in caliber 300 Savage, of course, but many in .308, 358, 243, and so on. All good "brush" calibers, since we know (don't we?!) that, say, a 30-30, is just as easily diverted by sticks and branches as any faster bullet in the same caliber.

Savage quality suffered in the last few years of production, with many being made using strange parts combinations, and mystery wood stocks. The switch to detachable box magazines meant cheaper production costs, but not necessarily better. But that's another story.

Anyway, don't forget to consider the 99!
 
i have a marlin 30a (30-30 and an 1895g 45/70. both make good woods guns, although the short (18 1/2") barrel on the guide gun is quicker if you have to suddenly change directions. there is a LOT more stopping power in a 45/70 than in the lo 30-30. but your shoulder feels it as well.
 
My wife has a Savage 99 in .300, and I haven't been impressed, I'm afraid. I can't get any better than 4" groups at 100 yards with the 4-12X40 that my wife has on it, but I suspect the mounts of skullduggery, so I'm witholding a 'total garbage' judgement until I change them, but as I posted earlier, her peep sighted .35 cal 141 Remington is a truly awesome woods rifle, and faster than any lever gun.
 
Lordy, my Savage 99 in 308 will shot MOA with Winchester Silver tip 150's. You got a problem.

OK - they are a PIA to take all the way down and re-assemble, but I'm sure it needs a real good clean and lube. Then pull the butt plate and check the stock bolt?

It needs to have the scope bases bedded to the action with JB Weld and screws. Scuff the action under the bases and the bottom side so that the JB will have a place to grab.

If Weaver bases, get Leupold vertical split rings for Weaver bases and snug up the bottom screw first, then torque the top screw to spec. Use thread locker on the ring screws. Now go back to the range and see what it'll do?

Never shoot an 99 with the forestock on the bags in front of the center screw. If shooting from bags, set the forestock in the bag right at the screw.
 
I own several Win 94s, and more 336 Marlins, all pre-safety. I like the Marlins better. I have a Marlin 1894 in .44 mag too, also a great rifle. My favorites are a 1978 336 30-30 with Williams Peeps and especially a 1973 336 in .35 Rem with a Weaver Classic 1-3x20.

Good stuff.
 
JB weld is bush league...I use either yellow lock-tite bearing set permanent, or green permanent for assembled fasteners. The bases aren't the problem...
 
I have and would again hunt in the brush with a 30/30 Win 94 with a peep sight. I was out with my 9422 practicing snap shooting on reactive steel targets just this week. Shooting a lever from the shoulder fast is a skill that needs to be practiced and is a lot of fun!
 
I really like the older BLR rifles made in Belgium. I found my Dad one on Gunbroker for around $600 a couple of years ago and it has been a great deer gun for PA. I like the fact that it has the detachable mag which comes in handy if you are driving deer and need to cross roads and unload in a hurry. I feel that the rifle is built very well and is a handsome rifle to boot. Just be carefull you dont lose the mag from the older Belgium BLR's...good luck finding one and if you do you will be $200 poorer.
 
I love the model 1895 Marlin in 45/70 with a peep sight. It will take anything up to and including bull moose of the Alaskan variety!!!! 35 Rem second and wont turn my nose up at a 3030.
 
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