Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by Mathew Pixley, Mar 20, 2019.
There are possibilities for your problem other than headspace. The firing pin safety may not be clearing before the firing pin/striker slams forward due to mis-fitting/excessive polishing. The firing pin protrusion through the breech face may be marginally short, igniting some, but not all rounds. A manufacturing defect or debris may be present in the slide's striker channel that creates drag on the striker. Aftermarket parts are fine if they are properly made and properly fit. Everyone assumes that the Glock is pretty much plug and play, but anytime you introduce a non-Glock manufactured part you are in new territory. Measuring, verifying, and adjusting or rejecting parts become part of the program.
I would start with verifying that the trigger and the firing pin safety are working properly together to get the safety plunger pushed up out of the way before the striker get there. It might be right on the ragged edge of work/won't work. It is one of the most reported problem areas in a Glock using aftermarket parts and/or being subjected to overzealous polishing in an attempt to smooth things up for a slicker action. Then measure the firing pin protrusion to ensure that it is correct. If that all checks then look at the headspace issue. It is the least likely to be the source of your trouble.
I had the same problem with factory striker in my Glock 22. Here's how I ended up troubleshooting and fixing the problem.
After taking the slide off, I pushed in the striker pin block (round button on underside of slide) and tilt the muzzle up. Striker should poke through the breechwall rectangle opening fully but if it does not poke through fully, you may have obstruction in the striker tube (caked on fouling) and/or fouling build up at the tip of striker pin.
Remove the striker pin assembly and inspect the tip for fouling build up. If tip lacks fouling build up, next inspect the striker pin tube/hole. If tube has a lot of fouling build up, plug the hole (white arrow) to hold solvent in the tube to clean fouling.
My problem was hard fouling build up at the bottom of striker pin tube/hole that was preventing the striker tip from poking through fully. I soaked the tube/hole with Hoppes #9 solvent and used a thin flathead screwdriver to scrape the hard packed fouling at the bottom of the tube/hole.
Once the fouling was scraped off, striker pin poked through fully and no more light primer strike.
Separate names with a comma.