Light strikes when shooting DA...
- Thread starter Bill M.
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WrongHanded
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Typically on a DA/SA revolver, the hammer does not come back as far on a DA pull as it does when cocked and fired SA. I had the same experience on my Redhawk when switching to a lighter main spring.
So, my guess is that the hammer spring is the issue.
So, my guess is that the hammer spring is the issue.
Federal primers are your friend, whether reload or factory.
Do check to make sure the strain screw hasn't been loosened or backed out some.
You didn't say if this just recently started or did you just buy the gun? If it had a previous owner, the hammer spring could have been replaced with a lighter one.
In the event tightening the strain screw doesn't help, I'd replace both the screw and spring.
Do check to make sure the strain screw hasn't been loosened or backed out some.
You didn't say if this just recently started or did you just buy the gun? If it had a previous owner, the hammer spring could have been replaced with a lighter one.
In the event tightening the strain screw doesn't help, I'd replace both the screw and spring.
Thanks for your replies. I have had the gun for 20 years or so. I probably never shot it DA before or at least not much. After posting I did some looking and fooling with the gun. The strain screw was in all the way. The side plate screws look like someone has been into it. I am going to guess the springs have been changed. Yes, the DA motion of the hammer is noticeably shorter than the SA motion. I think I am going to order a Wolf spring kit with a standard weight mainspring and try that. I may take the side plate off and clean it since it seems to have been off before.
Does the rebound spring power affect the firmness of the strike?
Does the rebound spring power affect the firmness of the strike?
When you want to lighten the hammer spring you back the spring screw out to find the point you want then you file the strain screw down so that it can be fully tight but it's now shorter. (Does that explanation make sense?)
Anyway if you're getting a new hammer spring get a new strain screw as well, just in case.
The rebound spring is used to return the trigger and the rest of the lock to its original positions. Doesn't affect the hammer strike, but the trigger pull. Lightning it isn't recommended because it can cause reset problems.
Anyway if you're getting a new hammer spring get a new strain screw as well, just in case.
The rebound spring is used to return the trigger and the rest of the lock to its original positions. Doesn't affect the hammer strike, but the trigger pull. Lightning it isn't recommended because it can cause reset problems.
that's interesting about filing down the strain screw. I wonder as a test, if one could back out the screw, or measure it to see if it has been filed down. to see if a new/longer strain screw - maybe back it off and put a little shim in there to see how it affects things. don't fire it like that, but maybe if your'e monkeying with it, could be a way to test it and see how the strain screw affects the hammer strike.
BBBBill
Member
A spent primer (with the anvil removed) placed over the tip of the strain screw has commonly been used for that.
1KPerDay
Member
A fresh mainspring will sort it IMO.
Steve in Allentown
Member
This link may be of interest: https://www.1911forum.com/threads/question-bobbed-hammer.374075/#post-3975417.
A quick solution would be to replace the hammer spring with a Wolff Type-2 spring.
A quick solution would be to replace the hammer spring with a Wolff Type-2 spring.
Measured one i had in my parts bin, still new in the bag. I didn't measure the full length of the screw since the head itself is of no consequence. I measured from the base of the head to the tip. (the shaft in other words) I got 0.370" I have one in my parts bin that was shortened, severely, and it measures .315" (wow). I also checked Jerry Kuhnhausen's Shop Manual, and all he says is to use on the proper length. There is a procedure for using a hanging weight to get to what he considers the correct tension. However, for most if us, we'll just lighten it till we still get reliable ignition and call it quits.
Caution, YMMV and I'm betting that minor variations in frame make a big difference here, so don't use my measurement as a reference. It's just what came from the parts house. It may be that they are shipped too long expecting you to file it down to whatever your revolver needs.
Caution, YMMV and I'm betting that minor variations in frame make a big difference here, so don't use my measurement as a reference. It's just what came from the parts house. It may be that they are shipped too long expecting you to file it down to whatever your revolver needs.
wiscoaster
Member
If you're never taken apart a S&W revolver before, I's suggest watching a YouTube video on how to do it first. You're likely to save yourself some aggravation and maybe even a buggered sideplate or lost spring.
BBBBill
Member
^^^^^ This! Remove the sideplate screws, slide the yoke/cylinder assembly out, hold the gun with a thumb lightly placed over the sideplate, and tap the gripframe with the handle of a screwdriver. Several light taps will vibrate the sideplate loose. It will pop up and you can grasp it to gently remove it without damage. There's a tab at the top corner where the 4th sideplate screw used to reside on older versions.
ApacheCoTodd
member
Are they the same two chambers every time it happens?
Todd.
Todd.
"Are they the same two chambers every time it happens?"
I do not know. I wondered that myself after I got home and was thinking. My guess is yes, the same 2 chambers since the 2 misfires were always consecutive.
I am not even going to try to find out unless I have to. When I get it I am going to dump the new Wolff mainspring into the gun and try it. I will work from there if I still need to trouble shoot. I forgot to order a new strain screw. Wolf did not offer one. Wolf says two weeks to ship and by then it will have to catch up with me with mail forwarding or if they ship other than USPS I am just not going to get it. Maybe I will just order another spring from a source I am used to using when I get located. I will be away from my shop for 2 months and will be working on the gun in the back of the truck so I am not going to do anything but the main spring at first. Maybe I will just have to shoot it single action for a good while longer.
I do not know. I wondered that myself after I got home and was thinking. My guess is yes, the same 2 chambers since the 2 misfires were always consecutive.
I am not even going to try to find out unless I have to. When I get it I am going to dump the new Wolff mainspring into the gun and try it. I will work from there if I still need to trouble shoot. I forgot to order a new strain screw. Wolf did not offer one. Wolf says two weeks to ship and by then it will have to catch up with me with mail forwarding or if they ship other than USPS I am just not going to get it. Maybe I will just order another spring from a source I am used to using when I get located. I will be away from my shop for 2 months and will be working on the gun in the back of the truck so I am not going to do anything but the main spring at first. Maybe I will just have to shoot it single action for a good while longer.
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ApacheCoTodd
member
OK. You still may have a significant contributing factor that likely will rise again even if the symptoms are addressed by a parts change... for a while.
Maybe, maybe not. Seems something to eliminate from the equation or at least identify before going forward.
Think of it as the guy who over or under inflates a tire to short-term correct a steering flaw.
Todd.
Minor update. I finally got time to install the new Wolff Law Enforcement mainspring. It was not as easy as I anticipated. The new spring is just enough wider than the old one to take up all the "wiggle space" for installation. It took a while. The new spring is very heavy. Too much so for me to be able to shoot the gun double action. So I now have the new spring installed and the tension screw backed out 1/2 turn. That seems about like, or maybe a bit heavier, than the old spring. I am in FL working in a trailer and my trigger pull gauge is in Tennessee. Next up is to go to the range and try to "tune it" with the screw. I need a day to let the blood blister I got from catching my finger in the trigger trying to shoot it with the full tension to heal a little.
243winxb
Member
Every time you change the primer lot, a different "tune" may be needed. I have bought used Wolffed guns that misfire.
First thing i do is order factory new parts.
First thing i do is order factory new parts.
wiscoaster
Member
Update: I finally got to shoot the gun after my spring swap. I ran 2 cylinders double action with no problems. I have the heavy law enforcement spring in with 1/2 turn off full in on the strain screw. Overall feels pretty good. I may try to find a S & W spring but do not know how to order. Can parts be ordered direct from S & W?
Shot at a new place to me since we are in Florida for the winter. West Armory in Dade City. Nice place, good people there. I did not check ammo prices but I saw some on the shelves.
Shot at a new place to me since we are in Florida for the winter. West Armory in Dade City. Nice place, good people there. I did not check ammo prices but I saw some on the shelves.
Jim Watson
Member
Hardware store, 8-32 set screw of appropriate length will work. If you still use Wolff "Power Rib" springs, you can file the tip into a truncated pyramid to fit the groove and give you quarter turn click adjustment and adjustment retention.
Thank you sir. That is good to know. Midway is out of the stainless screws. I like the tapered tip idea and yes, it is a Wolff spring with the V. My grips cover the screw so I could use a blued one I guess. I think right now I am going to put some Locktite on it and see how it does. I can not see me further adjusting it unless it moves.
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