Lite primer strikes.

Using either CCI or S+B primers my Glock 26 is failing to fire about 1 out of 4 shots. Unfortunately switching primers is not a possibility right now as we all know.All the round fire on second strike.

The gun does not have many rounds through it, under 600 I'd say. The only thing I could think of doing was getting a stiffer spring. I ordered a 6 pound from Wolff. Standard is 5.5 pounds. .5 pounds wouldn't seem much unless you think of it as a percentage.

If that fails then what?

 

What Gen?

My Gen 5 19 had light primer strikes with 147 grain flat nose loaded go 1.13". Fine with round nose, but I had to load flat nose and JHP (RMR 124 grain "multi purpose" JHP) to 1.10" or so or I'll get light strikes.

 

That makes no sense at all. If the round is headspaced correctly there should be no issue like that.

 

Yet it is. I hadn't bothered plunk testing and had already switched to 124 grain round nose mostly before I got my 19. Tighter chamber on the "marksman barrel" is hampering full lock up I guess.

Rounds all functioned 100% with my Gen 4 17, APX EDC X9, and DW Valkyrie (which is why I had them loaded a bit long to make sure the 1911 fed them smoothly).

 

Many Glocks will light-strike if there’s too much oil, lube or gunk in the striker channel. Has your gun been stripped down and throughly cleaned since this started?

Just a suggestion before you add a higher power striker spring (and subsequently increase the trigger pressure needed to fire the gun).

Stay safe.

 

If you still have some of the rounds, try re-seating the primers with a little more pressure and try again.

 

What riomouse911 said.
The plastic striker tunnel is a replaceable part. Never oil this area.

 

Have you done any modifications to the gun?

 

Most likely that the primers just weren't seated to the bottom of the primer pocket.

I've been having trouble with Remington 5-1/2 primers in my Glock 17L not firing the first times.
Some brass and primer combinations don't work well together.
Clean your Glock and push harder when seating primers.

 

This is a close up picture of an unfired pistol primer. Look along the upper rim of the primer cup and you can see the legs of the primers anvil extending slightly above the rim. When the primer is seated properly into the bottom of the primer pocket these legs are pushed into the primer cup adding pressure to the primer compound that sensitizes it and aids in the ignition when it is struck by the firing pin.

A primer that hasn't been seated firmly into the bottom of the primer pocket will usually fail to fire on the first hit from a firing pin. The first hit from the firing pin will usually push the primer into the bottom of the primer pocket. If the round is then fired a second time the firing pin will set off the round as the primer was properly set by the blow from the first firing pin strike.

As others have said, seat the primer firmly into the bottom of the primer pocket and your failure to fire problems should disappear. You should be able to feel your prime seat into the bottom of the primer pocket. You don't want to crush the primer, just feel it make solid contact.

 

A gazillion Glocks were made.

Your Glock works with factory ammo. Your Glock is fine.
You have problems with reloaded ammo, search there but not with your weapon.

You mess with the trigger and you are gonna see exactly what you experience.

Keep the striker channel clean. But even gunked up your Glock would work

 

Do a "plunk" test with all your reloads. If the round does not freely drop all the way into the chamber or if the face of the case is not flush with the back end of the barrel, you might get the round 99% into battery which is enough to release the striker block, but as the firing pin slams forward, the slide also closes and little to no energy is imparted into the primer and you get a light primer strike. On my M&P, it would also be a slightly off center light primer strike because the barrel was still tilted a few degrees from horizontal.

You can test this with an empty gun. Start closing the slide while pressing the trigger. There will be a point where you will release the striker but the slide is not 100% closed.

Just a thought.

Picture of a light strike on a used case where I was able to release the trigger with the slide closed to within a fraction of an inch before fully closing.

 

The previous Oil, rust, or carbon in the striker channel suggestion would be my first guess.

 

Probably the right call on this one. It’s amazing how little the primer has to move down in the primer pocket to go from too shallow to just right.

I used to be an “Oil Baron” with my guns, Glocks included, until I went to armorer school and then saw first hand the striker clogging with oil and crud issues on those types of guns. Now I stick to the factory recommended regimen with strikers and so far so good.

Stay safe.

 

That's what I was trying t say in Post #6. Guess I didn't make it plain.