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Loading 12 gauge slugs with load-all

Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by fireflyfather, Dec 31, 2008.

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  1. fireflyfather

    fireflyfather Member

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    Contemplating picking up a Lee Load-All and a Lee slug mold to do some shotgun reloading. I'm finally seeing components at a price where shotshell reloading seems to make sense again, so I am trying to figure out what I need to get started.

    What I have:
    lots of promo and red dot (used for pistol and cast rifle loading)
    plenty of wheel weight lead (stick on and clip on separated)
    casting equipment
    Reloading tools for rifle & pistol
    Various cheap shotshells (federal blue & red box from wallmart in 7 1/2)
    Winchester grey box buckshot & slugs

    What I need (I think):
    Load-All
    shot
    wads
    primers
    slug mold


    My questions are fairly straightforward.

    1. Can I use red dot or promo with the lee slugs? I can't find load data without buying the mold, but I don't want to buy the mold if I have to invest in another jug of powder.

    2. What kind of wad is necessary to load in the cheap federal hulls using promo/red dot?

    Any help is appreciated.
     
  2. Remo-99

    Remo-99 Member

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    Red Dot maybe a little fast for slug loads, my Lee slug mould data sheet lists
    Blue Dot, Herco, HS6, Accurate #5, H-Universal for use in Federal hulls and WAA12, FED 12S3 wads plus WIN 209 or FED 209A primers.

    That being said, if your at the lower side of a powder charge, the slugs can be loaded the same as ordinary trap loads.
    In the past I've used my light H-clays trap load, for Lee slugs. But velocity is only like around 1100-1200fps.
     
  3. Papa smurf

    Papa smurf Member

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    12 lee Slug

    I use 18 gr Red Dot, Claybuster replacement for ww12sl (pink), 7/8 oz Lee slug.You must put somthing under the slug so the crimp comes out right.I punch out cardboard disks and stack them till the crimp comes right.--------------------Good shooting Papa Smurf
     
  4. sargenv

    sargenv Member

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    You may also want to invest in a roll crimping tool. I picked up one of these along with a hull vice from Ballistic Products and use it for roll crimping slugs and specialty shot loads. They also sell a clear overshot card made for roll crimping loads where you would use shot or buckshot. Roll crimping actually allows you to load hotter ammo as it does not give as much resistance as a fold crimp load. You would think the opposit, but BP did the testing and found it to be true. IIRC they have a slug loading manual that could be useful.
     
  5. Vacek

    Vacek Member

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  6. TEDDY

    TEDDY Member

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    slugs

    you dont need roll crimp for lee slugs as they ar placed in the shot cup.
    DONT USE WW AS THEY SHRINK AND ITS A PITA TO RELEASE TRUST ME.
    :rolleyes: :uhoh: :eek: :D
     
  7. fireflyfather

    fireflyfather Member

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    I was planning on using the stick-on WW for the slugs.
     
  8. fireflyfather

    fireflyfather Member

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    Thanks for the link to that. I didn't see it on the Lee site. Must have missed it. So, I'd probably need to invest in at least one box of better hulls, and another bottle of powder, in addition to the loading tool, wads, primers, and mold. This is starting to sound expensive.........Sigh.

    Thanks for the help, folks.
     
  9. Hank Hunter

    Hank Hunter Member

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    I've been loading slugs for years. I have the Lee mold but the Lyman is much better. It cost more but is far worth it. I tried Blue Dot but I always had a lot of unburned powder in the barrel. Unique was alright but 800X was best.
     
  10. Galil5.56

    Galil5.56 Member

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    Your post brought back memories for me, and before I posted I wanted to find something I made about 30 years ago:

    [​IMG]

    Back around 1979 or 80 when I was a kid, I set out to make 12 gauge slug loads, and just happened to have a Lee Load-All. I did not have a source of ready made slugs, so I went about seeing if I could make my own. After a lot of trial and error I discovered that the "Hi-brass" portion of a Federal 20 gauge shell worked as far as diameter and weight were concerned. I carefully tapped the rim down flat with a round piece of steel which allowed the brass to be separated from the Reifenhauser style hull.

    Using a spent primer to seal the nose portion of the mold, also allowed a nifty HP to form. If you look closely at the picture, you can still see 20 GA, the Federal duck logo from the time period and Made in U.S.A. How I loaded them was I charged the case, seated a wad, and formed the pre crimp "cone". I then used the drop tube to push the end inward, push the slug into the case to seat, then roll crimp as usual. Not the most streamlined, efficient procedure, but it worked, and they shot pretty well considering everything.

    I still have that LOAD-ALL, but now use a Size-master... Just thought I would share my story.
     
    Last edited: Jun 2, 2011
  11. 33rowdy

    33rowdy Member

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    galil5.56

    I'm trying to follow your above post.
    But I think what you done was take 20 Ga shell and use the brass as a mold?

    I will say that your work does look good.
     
  12. Galil5.56

    Galil5.56 Member

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    33, that is correct. Thanks for the compliment.
     
  13. 33rowdy

    33rowdy Member

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    I might have a nerve to try that trick someday. Thanks Galil!
     
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