Loading data for 9mm cast bullet

[firewall_03]

I bought about 500 cast bullets from a store for a pretty cheap price. There a 122 gr I looked in my Lyman reloading manual and I didn't see any loading data for alliant powder. I went to alliant powders website and they only listed loading data for speer bullets. I also was told that if I use a charge that will shoot faster than 900 fps the lead will leave small deposits in the barrel. Thanks for your help I am completely new to reloading.

 

[Marlin 45 carbine]

alliant makes 2 good powders for loading cast slugs in 9mm. BullsEye and Red Dot (my favorite)
leading in the bore can be the result of undersize slugs or too soft a slug also - and too hard. I push 'em at about 1000 fps with very little leading, the slugs I buy from mike at 'mastercastbullets' shoot great in my 5906.

 

[Walkalong]

Any 124/125 Gr lead bullet data will work fine. Leading is not so much just a velocity thing as it is matching the bullet size to the gun and lead hardness to the velocity/pressure. You will be fine. Try a few loads using the starting data and go from there. Let us know the results and ask more questions.

Many powders work well with lead in the 9mm. The two Alliant powders mentioned will work just fine. W-231 is another good one to try.

Welcome to THR

 

[Jim Watson]

There a 122 gr I looked in my Lyman reloading manual and I didn't see any loading data for alliant powder.

That is really strange because MY Lyman book shows data for Bullseye, Red Dot, Green Dot, Blue Dot, and Unique, all made by Alliant. True, it is for 121 grain bullets out of Lyman moulds, but that one grain does not make any difference in practice.

 

[firewall_03]

Well, I am getting ready to reload my first round, but I will look harder at my manual I was looking for alliant powder not Bullseye, Red Dot, Green Dot, Blue Dot, and Unique. I just wanted to be very cautious with the powder since its my first time ever reloading.

 

[Jim Watson]

Alliant is a brand name, not an individual powder. Powders are listed by brand name in the front of the manual. Study up.

 

[MichaelK]

Firewall, Alliant is the brand name, not the name of the specific gunpowder. Bullseye, Unique, Blue Dot are the ALL Alliant brand powders!

You should invest a few more dollars in some reloading manuals. I recommend you get "ABC's of reloading" by DBI press. I like the older editions with Dean Grennell as the author.

By the way, my favorate cast bullet load for 9mm is 8.0 grains of Alliant Blue Dot pushing a Lee 120 grain TC. Cast in hard Lyman #2 alloy, there will be no leading at 1200fps.

 

[Jimfern]

1st time reloading

If it's your first time reloading, please consider making a few dummy rounds (no powder or primers) and then try hand cycling them through your pistol. Automatics can be picky with bullet style and seating depth.

There is usually a COL (Cartridge Overall Length) listing that you should be trying to match as well. It's usually listed per bullet type or as the maximum for the round.

 

[firewall_03]

do I need a caliper to measure how long they are after I make the dummy round? I have everything else but a caliper right now.

 

[Walkalong]

A caliper is an indispensable tool for reloaders. A cheap one from Harbor Freight will do everything you need.

 

[Jim Watson]

You can get along without it, but you might have to make more than one dummy to get it right.
Take the barrel out of your gun to chamber check with.
Seat the bullet to where the dummy will chamber freely (compare vs a factory load) but no shorter.

Load up a few and testfire to see if they will feed from magazine to chamber. Adjust if necessary. You will be using a starting powder load so small changes in seating depth will not run the pressure up too high.

Calipers are handy, though, and you don't need the top of the line model a professional gunsmith or machinist would use. I recommend a cheap dial caliper, the cheap digital I have is convenient but eats batteries.

If you have the bullets I think you do, Laser Cast recommends an OAL of 1.070".
But the safest thing is to let the gun tell you what it will accept and use the longest it will handle.

 

[firewall_03]

Ya I have seen that one I should have picked one up at cabela's when I was there but I decided against it. It hasn't been cheap getting everything I need to get going on reloading but I'll see my savings once I start shooting more.

 

[Walkalong]

Jim is right, as usual. You can get by without one, but they sure are handy and you will be glad you got one.

 

[Galil5.56]

Firewall,

Being brand new and thinking of using Alliant powders, I would strongly suggest you start with Unique. It can be used for any practical bullet weight in 9mm, and works very well when used in reduced charges. Most importantly for a beginner is its high bulk to weight ratio will cause a spill over with anything but the lightest charge weight should you double charge. Once you get some experience under your belt and learn the ropes, Unique works extremely well in medium and full velocity 9mm loads with cast and jacketed bullets alike. Its nature is far more forgiving than say Clays or Titegroup, and the accuracy I get, especially with cast bullets has always been absolutely top notch.

Cons? In lower intensity loadings there will be unburned flakes/soft sooty fouling, and because of its shape/density it won't always meter as easily as say ball propellants. For me the key is to perfect your procedure, be it from a scoop, hand operated powder measure, or measure on a press. Jerky hard stops cause problems, and if I work my 550B with no hard stops and a smooth action my drops are very consistent with Unique. I have read of "bridging" problems (when the powder will stick/clog in a powder measures drop tube), but have yet to experience it. If this does happen, this can be very dangerous as one case may be undercharged, and the next get what remains plus a full charge. Regardless of powder, you should always be on the lookout for it.

A few other comments I hope you will find helpful:

Once you get OAL figured out, make sure to NOT taper crimp the case too much. Basically you just want the belling removed, or perhaps a bit more. Make sure to seat your primers fully, with the flat portion of the primer below flush with the case. Don't go too low on charge weights where a squib could happen, and a bullet could remain in the barrel. I would not use much less than 4.2 grains of Unique, and even then it is possible that the action of the pistol will not function. Trying to say what fps will or will not cause leading is not going to happen, as far too many variables come into play. FWIW, at times I will make up a cheap M882 clone where I drive 127 grain cast bullets in excess of 1200 fps, and leading is not an issue, but sizing/lube/alloy is to negate it.

Good luck, and enjoy your new hobby.

 

[firewall_03]

I actually bought the Alliant powder, and I don't think I can return it back to the store once I bought it so I might just be stuck with it good thing I only bought a 1 lb jug.

I also am going to reloading .223's for my AR-15 that I just got done building do you have any tips for that?

 

[firewall_03]

My wife just picked me up a caliper and a digital scale at Cabela's its gonna cost me a lot on the honey dew list. But I think its gonna be worth me having those to things to my collection...the scale they give you with the lee 50th anniversary kit seems kinda chincy.

 

[Jim Watson]

I actually bought the Alliant powder

WHICH Alliant powder? They make a couple of dozen different grades, some suitable for 9mm, some suitable for .223, some good in neither.

 

[firewall_03]

Bullseye

 

[Dave B]

Bullseye is a very fast burning pistol powder. It will work great in a 9mm. Not a .223

 

[firewall_03]

I realize that, I have a different powder for reloading .223 rounds