Long Term Storage of Reloads

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tabealer

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Does anyone have any tried and true system for storing ammunition for long term? I was thinking about vacuum packing - similar to food storage.
 
+1 on the ammo cans. Do yourself a favor though and stick with the smaller cans so you don't overload 'em and then have to move a 40+ lb. can I throw 1 or 2 dessicant packs in the bottom and top for extra protection since these are stored in the garage under my reloading bench for 'ballast'.

For spent brass I've found the transparent kittly litter jugs with the wide mouth and handle to be perfect (and with 2 cats in the household) and readily available.

C.
 
I use Markron Custom bullet and primer sealer. It goes on kinda like fingernail polish. It works great and is only about $7 at Cabela's. Just seal the seam where the primer was seated and the seam where the bullet was seated, and your done.
 
I shoot most of my reloads within the same month, but keep some for SHTF scenarios (I rotate out stock annually).

I vacuum pack 100 rounds in Food Saver bags and cut out two notches on the bag ends to make it easy to tear open. And if the SHTF, it's easy to issue and carry in pockets of my family/friends/neighbors.

If you need desiccant, toss some uncooked rice in the bag - although in many THR threads, it's been more than proven that unsealed rounds left in the open (rain, snow, etc.) shot fine after several months of exposure.
 
Does anyone have any tried and true system for storing ammunition for long term?

I tried some ammo I loaded in 1978 against the same load loaded 5 years ago and just loaded last summer. Chrono gave these results:

1978 ammo..................950 fps
2004 ammo..................970 fps
2009 ammo................1000 fps

I attribute the variation in velocity due to different lots of the same powder. ES and SD were about the same in all three.

The older ammo was put in a factory box and then an ammo can. No dessicant used. Kept dry and relatively cool. I see no need for extraordinary measures.
 
If you just keep it dry and store it reasonably, it will likely last your lifetime anyway. Why worry about it? I was looking through my stocks the other day and I found some .45ACP that I loaded in 1983 or 1984. It was just plain lead RN bullets. I've carted it all over the country, from when I loaded it in FL to where I live now in the N.W. It still works just fine....
 
GRIZ22, now that's long term. I am glad smokeless powders are stable. :D

I tried some ammo I loaded in 1978 against the same load loaded 5 years ago and just loaded last summer. Chrono gave these results:

1978 ammo..................950 fps
2004 ammo..................970 fps
2009 ammo................1000 fps
 
I use Markron Custom bullet and primer sealer. It goes on kinda like fingernail polish

Because it is most likely the exact same thing. Clear polish should be less expensive as well.

Green ammo cans with an intact rubber seal are a great way to store stuff for long periods, including ammo
 
GRIZ22, that is some excellent info and not easily duplicated.

bds, I like your small vacuum packs. Easy way to distribute ammo once you open a can.

Thanks to all for your input. Any more opinions, please chime in.

GB
 
GI ammo cans with good lid seals will keep ammo perfectly for a lifetime.
That is what they were designed to do.

No need at all for vacuum sealing, desiccant packs, or especially, painting the primers with nail polish!! That is a waste of time!

If you don't put water inside the ammo can with the ammo, there is no possibly way water can get in later.

The other major benefit is, GI ammo cans were designed to contain ammo fragments in a fire.
That makes them way safer in your home then plastic ammo cans or Tupperware containers.

rc
 
I have to agree with the ammo cans. I use the 50 cal type and use quart type zipLoc freezer bags filled 150 ea rifle or 250 pistol each. Date and put load info on side. Store until needed.:cool:
 
During the move down here in 2005, I uncovered a couple of long-forgotten .50 caliber cans in the basement containing a couple thousand rounds of handloaded .41 Magnum ammunition that dated back to 1983. Cast bullets and Unique with Winchester primers. I'd actually forgotten that I had it, it had been so long since I loaded it. I bought a short-coupled Ruger .41 Blackhawk last year, and I've been busy burning up the stuff ever since. Nary a misfire or hangfire.
 
Ammo cans are a good idea for storage, but don't over estimate their ability to keep water out. If you are just using them to keep moisture out, they are good for that. I regularly store Silver Bear ammo in them. Silver Bear cases are known to corrode if moisture gets to them and I've never had a problem.

I'm sure that the ammo cans can handle splashes and stuff, but they won't keep the water out if submerged. I had a dozen or so cans in my garage that I was storing stuff in when Katrina hit. Those that were light enough to float were fine. Those that were too heavy to float leaked.

As for keeping reloaded ammo safe. I think the stuff is practically indestructable. Have you ever tried to kill ammo? I've tried soaking in water, dunking in oil, spraying with WD40 and all kinds of stuff. What can I say? I was bored and wanted to see if it could be done. What I found is that reloaded ammo can shrug off all kinds of harshness, as long as the cases don't corrode.
 
Reloaded brass compared to virgin brass might have different storage life?? When a round is fired, many different chemicals are produced. I wonder if these chemicals might attack brass after a while?? GI ammo cans for me.
 
Ammo cans with a desicant pack stacked in a non workin fridge to stabilize temp!!

Cleaned the brass inside & out with the soak solution then tumbled , broke into some6yr old stuff to check case , NO GREEN on the inside of the case .

What got me to cleanin & checkin I stored some dirty-30 reloads & did`nt clean nuttin .
went to shoot some of it & could`nt hit a 8x11" peice of paper at 50 yds , pulled a bullet or 2 & the base of the bullet was gone eaten off by the green stuff , brass looked ok but the acids attacked the copper of the bases since it was softer??? that`s my theory & I`m stikin to it!!
 
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