Looking at 308 Bolt actions

Oooo... I forgot pictures...

Savage 10TAC, with used Burris Veracity 4x20 scope...

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...and my brother, shooting his new that day Ruger American .308. Funny story about that... I had him talked into a 6.5CM, instead of the .308, based on what he wanted the rifle for... hunting, but target shooting as well. We were walking through a gun show, and he saw this Ruger... and that was that. With my handloads, and even with his crappy scope, it shoots sub-MOA at 100yds.

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Yeah I was up late lasts night reading post here and as well as 3 other forums. I find it interesting to read for other opinions and most of you state it is what feels good in your hands and is within your Budget also. As Friends have said pre-chinese virus prices were different but since I have a budget to continue on this hobby format. I dont hunt (at least yet, althought my neighbor does and has asked if I would like to) I did a competition shoot last year to see how bad I am really in the shooting, grins. I take those as learning experiences and not for competition side of it. Money well spent to shoot and LEARN....and grasp how bad I am really. I can sit back and laugh at myself now.

Alot out there on the forums say to bite the bullet and buy a Tikka rifle and I see their point but then again, I enjoy the aspect of this as to learn and gain the knowledge that alot of you have from understanding what makes the components of the rifle work and what can be done to improve that one or other parts to make it shoot. I dont want to buy a lemon but then again, buy into a entry level rifle is where I am at. My first AR was a simple GLFA rifle and since I have made changes to it to suit my needs. If my budget allowed for those 3K and larger then I would be processing for those.

The remington 700 5R Milspecs I have shot a long time ago and really enjoyed shooting it when I did, but I have had access to high in military equipment from various friends and got to shoot some high end rifles, MBR's are still a favorite. I cant afford them but wow they were nice. That is a reason I look at the Remington. The ruger is due to I bought a American Standard GEN2 in 223 and I really am enjoying building the loads for it and shooting it. Quality glass is huge upgrade to any rifle as I started with it using a "Amazon Special" that was given to me and moved from it to Vortex 1-8x24 Strike Force (Not thrilled with the glass since it is more for a AR platform but price I couldnt pass it up).

So now considering the 6.5CM due to same caliber sizing as a 308 but from reading is somewhat softer on the recoil and made more for distance. But i wonder being it is a popular, like all the cool kids are using, that the prices for rifles in 6.5CM will be more than the 308. So I will wade thru and read more and enjoy the feedback I get from the Forums and those that have great input.

Continue on and thank you
If you can find it cheap in .308, you can find it cheap in 6.5, spend a little time on Gunbroker 😉
 
What kind of competition do you have in mind?
Any of the gun games I have been successful at, I have built firearms just for them.
Yep, if you are serious about a competition, you need to look at what they use and why. Just playing at the range, just something with a nice action that shoots well.

FN-SPR in .308. Action is slick, trigger is very nice, shoots about .75ish +/- if you do your part.

Wouldn't work well for PRS. It would work, just not well.
FN SPR with Sightron Scope Pic 1 - THR Size.jpg
 
OP I'll refer you to post #20

A good economical start would be a Savage 10/110. You get alot of bang for the buck there. I myself kinda sorta have my eye on a Model 10 something or another, heavy threaded barrel 308. I think that one is a 20", it seemed a touch short. Savage does make some pretty accurate rifles for the money, at least every one I own is superb. Would not hesitate to buy another
 
I am very much a fan of medullar design firearms, in all platforms, ie, Glocks, AR-15s, Savages, etc. Contemporary Savage rifles are quite simply impressive. Cabela's carries a wide selection. The best part is, being a modular design, maintenance, repair or enhancing, is a piece-of-cake. JMHO.
 
I’ve loved the .308 for, I don’t know, 40 years? I’ve found it to be inherently very accurate in both semi-autos and bolt guns and is pretty easy to handload. I don’t think it’s ever a bad choice. I’m tickled pink that my recently acquired 60’s vintage Remington 40X in 7.62 turned out to be a 1/2 MOA gun and that started my latest obsession with precision rifles (as an enthusiast only, not a competitor).

Having also dipped my toe into the 6mm pool, I too would encourage you to look at the 6.5 CM. I’ve had my Tikka T3X TAC A1 in 6.5 for bit now, and am extremely impressed with both the rifle and the round. Recoil is somewhat subjective but I’d say that my Tikka has about half the recoil of my 40X. Both are of similar weight but man, that 6.5 just stays flat at the shot and makes spotting hits and misses so much easier. For me and my skill level, the misses are just as important, if not more so!

I love my TAC A1 but the Tikka CTR 6.5 has the same barreled action I believe (minus the two stage trigger I think) and can be had around $1k. Not cheap, but a great way to go. Upgrade it with an MDT chassis and some good glass and you’ve really got something hot. I think Eurooptic.com is still having their “Tikka Blowout” so you might want to check pricing there. Anyway, there’s some great advice already in this thread! I don’t have a Savage bolt gun but their reputation for accuracy is well known; one of my Marine friends is looking at getting one in 6.5 to take me on at the range.

Just 2/100ths of a buck!

Here are my first shots with the Tikka. First shot after sight-in went high. A couple of clicks on the elevation turret and the next 5 rounds punched a nice cloverleaf:

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If it’s just target duty then I’d likely go with a Savage.

They aren’t the prettiest but they do tend to shoot tight groups right out the box.

When that’s no longer good enough screw on a match barrel from one of the top makers and shoot even smaller.

And there’s absolutely nothing wrong with choosing a .308 but I might go with a .223 if you’re primarily shooting 600 yards and in. With the right load they’re competitive with the .308 in mid range F-TR matches, they’re more economical to shoot and less recoil is an advantage.

My Model 12 with a Shilen barrel in .223. A 0.3 MOA 10 shot group has got to be good enough, right?

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So in reading back someone mentioned getting the Tikka CTR and then replacing the stock....Why? Ii I just spent about $1,000.00 for the Tikka CTR and then replacing their stock due to why? I am not nit picking but I thought Tikka's/Sako's were to be the cadillacs of the rifles out there? If i need to replace their stock then why not a Remington R5 or Ruger AP Gen2 or Howa M1500, being that I will replace their stocks eventually if I really take the walking trek into the competition world. I don't want to come across as foolish or condescending in my text. I currently shoot a Ruger AS GEN2 in 223 and enjoy shooting it and since I replaced the glass with better even more enjoyment. So why would one want to replace the stock on the Tikka CTR?

Also I am going out in the weeds on this. So in reading most powders are tested on a 24 inch barrel. SO I been looking at rifles with 24 inch barrels and also even out to 26 inch. But now shorting the barrel will change the outcome of the velocity from the rifle for each shot. I am seeing this with my Ruger AS Gen2 223 is 20 inches, that the velocity is not what is published per the books. Now I am close but not nail on. I bring this up as I am thinking from reading that havign a 24 inch barrel s better than having the 20 inch barrel or is this nomimal in the difference or concern for distance?

Thank you all for your input and looking forward to reading more.
 
So I have been looking at purchasing a 308 Bolt action Rifle. I want to use it to fire my own loads and at distance of 100 plus yards and towards if I wish to shoot in competition (maybe). I am on a budget kinda of so not wanting to go over the top. Looking at barrel length longer than 20 inches like in 24inches or longer.



So I have prepared a spreadsheet with my likes and these are my likes but not sure which...I own the Ruger American Standard GEN2 in 223 and enjoy shooting it.



Ruger American Predator GEN2 with the 22 inch barrel

Ruger M77 Hawkeye Long Range Target with 26 inch barrel



Remington 700 ADL with 24 inch barrel

Remington 700 SPS with 24 inch barrel



Savage 110 Tactical with 24 inch barrel

Savage 110 Predator with 24 inch barrel



I like the M77 but not ever shot one or nor no anyone that has one, so looking for input on it as well as the others. Tikka's are out of my range as well as Sako's too. I tend to lean towards the Ruger since I already have a Ruger in 223 and it shoots nicely at 100 yards plus. But also the Remington 700 with their R5 barrels are standing there in their own and are looking great.



Looking for input....

Thank you
me and @LoonWulf will attest to be surprising accuracy of the cheap Mossberg patriot rifles... I had a 270 and a 6.5 prc that were laser beams and were around 500ish bucks.
 
So in reading back someone mentioned getting the Tikka CTR and then replacing the stock....Why? Ii I just spent about $1,000.00 for the Tikka CTR and then replacing their stock due to why? I am not nit picking but I thought Tikka's/Sako's were to be the cadillacs of the rifles out there? If i need to replace their stock then why not a Remington R5 or Ruger AP Gen2 or Howa M1500, being that I will replace their stocks eventually if I really take the walking trek into the competition world. I don't want to come across as foolish or condescending in my text. I currently shoot a Ruger AS GEN2 in 223 and enjoy shooting it and since I replaced the glass with better even more enjoyment. So why would one want to replace the stock on the Tikka CTR?

Also I am going out in the weeds on this. So in reading most powders are tested on a 24 inch barrel. SO I been looking at rifles with 24 inch barrels and also even out to 26 inch. But now shorting the barrel will change the outcome of the velocity from the rifle for each shot. I am seeing this with my Ruger AS Gen2 223 is 20 inches, that the velocity is not what is published per the books. Now I am close but not nail on. I bring this up as I am thinking from reading that havign a 24 inch barrel s better than having the 20 inch barrel or is this nomimal in the difference or concern for distance?

Thank you all for your input and looking forward to reading more.
Twist rate means way more than 4" of barrel length (=100fps give or take a few) that 20" might wield better with a can attached than a 26" if that's in the thinking too. At the end of the day if all things are equal there's a few factors that go into barrel length preferences, mostly determined by purpose of said rifle. Weight, balance, overall length and maneuverability all come into play sooner or later. Sometimes longer and heavier are better, sometimes they aren't. When you've decided that list of priorities, then decide if 100 fps is worth it (ballistic app helps here) the further you go, the more you realize you're lucky if you bought 50 extra yds with it.
 
Also I am going out in the weeds on this. So in reading most powders are tested on a 24 inch barrel. SO I been looking at rifles with 24 inch barrels and also even out to 26 inch. But now shorting the barrel will change the outcome of the velocity from the rifle for each shot. I am seeing this with my Ruger AS Gen2 223 is 20 inches, that the velocity is not what is published per the books. Now I am close but not nail on. I bring this up as I am thinking from reading that havign a 24 inch barrel s better than having the 20 inch barrel or is this nomimal in the difference or concern for distance?

Barrel length influences weight and balance far more significantly than it does influence muzzle velocity. 308win gives up around 25fps per inch of barrel in the 20-24" realm, so 4" is only ~100fps... Which two barrels of the EXACT same length and manufacture could vary by as much as 100fps anyway. But 4" of sporter barrel is about 6oz, 4" of bull barrel is over 3/4lb, and the balance shifts by a couple of inches forward for the longer barrel vs. the shorter.

For long range shooting, a 24" barrel makes much more sense than a 20". Better weight distribution on the rest/bipod and rear bag, better balance on positional support, less muzzle jump, more angular inertia, all good things.
 
Barrel length influences weight and balance far more significantly than it does influence muzzle velocity. 308win gives up around 25fps per inch of barrel in the 20-24" realm, so 4" is only ~100fps... Which two barrels of the EXACT same length and manufacture could vary by as much as 100fps anyway. But 4" of sporter barrel is about 6oz, 4" of bull barrel is over 3/4lb, and the balance shifts by a couple of inches forward for the longer barrel vs. the shorter.

For long range shooting, a 24" barrel makes much more sense than a 20". Better weight distribution on the rest/bipod and rear bag, better balance on positional support, less muzzle jump, more angular inertia, all good things.
for a hunting rifle, a medium profile 20in would be perfect, rigid enough for a suppressor to not effect barrel harmonics as much, not not so heavy that its a bear to carry all day. my 26in 25-06 with a suppressor is pretty much a Roman Era Javelin lol...
 
One doesn’t have to replace the stock on a Tikka CTR - it’s absolutely fine for what it is - but a replacement is a good way to go if/when the owner is looking for more adjustability and accessorizing (arcarail, etc.).
 
I responded to your post on the Firing line suggesting one of the Ruger's.

It now seems that you may be more flexible on your budget and are now considering other cartridges. The Ruger American series are darn accurate rifles for the dollar but I like Tikka a little better. But they will cost you a little more.

I had a CTR for a while and liked it a lot, but for what I do it was too heavy. I liked the compact 20" barrel, but didn't need the weight. My standard Tikka T3X was every bit as accurate and 2 lbs lighter. I chopped the barrel to 19" and use 5 round magazines in it. It is my go-to do everything rifle now.

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IME 20" is plenty for what you said you wanted to do. A 308 is good for around 700-800 yards with a 20" barrel. You'd need to go with a 26" barrel and use pretty hot handloads to get to 1000 yards. There are a lot better 1000 yard cartridges than 308.

The 6.5 shoots 140 gr bullets with similar ballistic coefficients as 200 gr .308 bullets. You can't get enough speed with 200's in a 308 to help much. With bullets that heavy you really need one of the 300 magnums. The 6.5CM shoots those 140 gr bullets to about the same speed as 165's in a 308. The more aerodynamic bullets retain velocity and stability well past 1000 yards, even from 20" barrels. With longer barrels the 6.5 will remain stable to nearly a mile.

And I've never seen a 6.5CM that wasn't more accurate than any 308 I've ever fired. And 308 is pretty accurate. I'm pretty heavily invested in several 308 rifles and at this point in my life aren't going to change. 308 does what I need it to do, but 6.5CM is the better cartridge for everything but large bear defense. And there are better choices than 308 for that.
 
Here's something you should look at.


Drop that into a Bell and Carlson stock and you have your rifle. Brownell's has those also.
 
So I have been looking at purchasing a 308 Bolt action Rifle...
Among those you list, I strongly prefer the Hawkeye action, and it would be my first choice for a big game hunting rifle. However, I would say a Savage or Remington is more likely to shoot more precisely (on average, though not by a huge margin).
 
The "V" said not a Rem with a 10 foot pole.....and he is probably correct unless you can true it and screw on a good barrel- BUT....they can be made to shoot with the rest......
That 1500 is pretty good out of the box....
Iam a fan of 26" barrels as long as you don't plan on climbing mountains with it-
 
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