Looking for a "Combat Revolver" in .357

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I have a 4" M13-1 that was a safe queen until i got my hands on it and discovered it's a shooter. traded a Glock 17 and $25 bucks for it. The thing about K frames is you have to shoot the heaviest load (182gr?) .357 possible, or you will get frame stretching. i practice with .38's and keep it loaded with .357's
 
Contumacious
Hey guys, I've been looking at getting a combat revolver (best definition I've heard of, not quite sure to call it) and have been largely unsuccessful. I'm looking for a 4" to 6" barrel, preferably a blued or black finish (not a fan of a shiny gun) and no larger than a large (L) frame.

Round count is something I'm not quite sure about, since I've seen 8 count revolvers, 7 count and such, but it seems like this might be more of a hassle than a 6 count, since I am already fairly good at loading a 6 count revolver by hand or speed loader.

I'd also like to get a Smith and Wesson, but I really have no brand bias. I already know of the Colt Python, but I'd rather get a revolver I can still send in for maintenance and such.

Thanks in advance for any help.

I've carried a revolver for duty and off duty for close to 18 years. I've carried S&W J,K,L,&N frame guns. Presently My wife and I own Ruger GP 100's, a 3" and 4" respectfully.

First if this is going to be a carry gun I HIGHLY recommend you look at a stainless gun. For the year I had to carry a blued gun, (this was in s. Louisiana) I could not keep the back strap from rusting. When the dept switched to stainless it was a God send.

Also I don't believe in all this hohaha about "shinny" guns. I've carried stainless hand guns and shotgun for many years. At no time was it a detriment. Actually the ease of maintenance off set any of the down side.

Though I can't talk bad about the S&W K frame, there is a reason my wife and I have GP 100's. They fit the hand better, the barrel is lower in the hand. Bottom line the GP 100 is and L frame gun that fells like a K frame.

I understand that everyone has to get what fits them the best, but my money is on the GP 100.
 
I like the S&W K frames. I have a 19 6'' for HD for now.

I also really like the Colt Python, except they are hard to find now and expensive. My dad is still kicking himself for not buying one dirt cheap at a drug store years ago...
 
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Don't worry about feeding a K-frame Smith a steady diet of magnum loads. Bill Jordan, who we have to thank for even having the Model 19 and its kin, put many thousands of rounds of magnum loads thru his Model 19s with no problems.

The frame cutting problem, which lead to the development of the L-frame, came about with the development of the 180gr load designed for handgun silhouette shooting. Something about the powder used for those rounds caused the cutting of the frame right in front of the cylinder. Stick with 158/160gr and/or 125 grain loads and you will be shooting that Model 19/13 for many years to come.
 
Try www.texasguntrader.com
This will give you an idea of what's in the used market around the state. Also, don't forget that there will be plenty of good pawn shops outside the post, and lots of ads on the TGT site from around the North Austin area, which is a short drive from the post. You may get some good deals there, but research prices first so you don't get stung. I am also a fan of the k frame S&W's as well as Taurus revolvers. I have several of each, and they are all great guns for your intended use.
 
Hey guys, I've been looking at getting a combat revolver (best definition I've heard of, not quite sure to call it) and have been largely unsuccessful. I'm looking for a 4" to 6" barrel, preferably a blued or black finish (not a fan of a shiny gun) and no larger than a large (L) frame.
My first suggestion would be the S&W 686 w/4-inch barrel. It's built on S&W's large (L) frame with a heavy underlug barrel. To me, that is the quintessential .357 combat revolver and one of my favorite guns. Its a stainless gun though, so my second thought would be the old S&W 586.

SW586.jpg

Its the blued steel version of the 686, although they are unfortunately OOP. They do seem to be fairly easy to find in good condition on the second hand market, however. Its a bit large if you want it for conceled carry, although still doable with the right clothing.
 
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I posted on this thread before, but forgot to add my favorite

although not a K frame...my 4" Highway Patrolman. Heavy to carry, great to shoot. Mine was refinished, so not collectable...got it for around $350.

mark
 
A "combat" revolver to me well be a fixed sight in matt blue or stainless. A M581/681 in .357 or the M696 in 44spl would fill the bill. A Ruger Service Six is another option.
 
Back in the day, "combat revolver" meant a fixed sight M&P or M1917. Today's .357 equivalents include the S&W Models 581 and 681. Everything you need and nothing you don't. This 681 is my favorite .357 and, like previously mentioned, shoots to POA at combat distances. Great DA action, too.

681.jpg
 
I carried A S&W Model 19 as a duty gun for many years until they switched us over to crunchentickers.

It can't be beat!

Its still the gun I am the most accurate with.
 
If you can find them you have a number of excellent options. Ruger makes a tank tough gun. IMHO Smith and Wesson is still the gold standard for revolvers. Any of the following would meet your needs. In .357 Magnum M-13, M-19, and the M-66 all are medium frames. M-27 (big $$) M-28 large frames.

In 38 special the M-10 or the M-15. All of these are out of production you you will need to find one on the used market. Remember all of these are becoming collectors pieces so the price will not be cheap.

For one all around revolver as so many have said, and I agree "the M-19 everything you need in a revolver and nothing you don't need"
 
Bill Jordan, who we have to thank for even having the Model 19 and its kin, put many thousands of rounds of magnum loads thru his Model 19s with no problems.


Well maybe Bill Jordan didn't but I had problems feeding a Model 19 a steady diet of magnums.

The frame cutting problem, which lead to the development of the L-frame, came about with the development of the 180gr load designed for handgun silhouette shooting.

I never shot more than 158 gr in mine and I had flame cutting and timing problems by about 3000 rds of magnums. This was a 1975 manufactured blue steel Model 19.

Stick with 158/160gr and/or 125 grain loads and you will be shooting that Model 19/13 for many years to come.

My understanding it is the 125 grain and lighter loads caused the flame cutting and one should stick with 140-158 gr loads.

Don't get me wrong, my daily carry is usually a newer (1990s) Model 66 I got new a few years ago. I've carried this for about 5 years with a moderate amount of 158 gr magnums and it still seems to be running fine.

I also have a 1988 Taurus 669 than has well over 5000 magnums and at least twice that many 38s with zero problems for over 20 years. Am I saying the Taurus is better than the S&W? No, I'm saying my Taurus is better than that S&W I bought in the 70s.
 
I love my K frames. I shoot mostly .38 Special, but .357 is no problem.

A very nice guy bought a 19-3 in 1972, put it in the safe, and brought it out for me in 2010. A brand new gun, for less than (barely) the new Smiths are selling for. Wolff spring kit, Ahrends grips.

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Hmmmm 'combat revolvers'. .357s or .38s? These are all mine!

Maybe a .357
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or maybe a .38!

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Deaf
 
Thanks Jeb,

All four of 'em have Secret Service stocks. All of them have action jobs done by me and they are 'zero zero', that is no cylinder shake, no crane shake, no end shake... and time perfect. And all of them shoot right on the money.

But...I pack a Glock cause they are ugly and still real good shoot'en tupperwear.

You see some people horde critters, others junk, others money, but me, I see this wheelgun in a pawnshop just cry'en for a good home (and for a real good price.) And many times I just can't turn my back on that poor old revolver. So I take 'em home and fix them up. Not all of them just the ones that shoot strait and have potential. These four had potential!

Simiautos are machines (especially todays versions) but revolvers have character.

And it's character that matters. Good character.

Deaf
 
The OP stated no shiny finishes, just black or blue.

The OP stated no frame size over an L frame.

The OP mentioned S&W was a preference but no Colt due to wanting factory service.

Thus, a 4" K or L frame. I'd recommend the K personally. Either a Model 13 or 19.
 
Hi DC Plumber,

the answer to your question is not easy.
First of all: European countries have a WIDE variety of gun laws, with England being the worst and Switzerland, Austria an Czech Republic among the best (from gun-peoples´point of view :) )

Yes , you can OWN and shoot handguns in Germany. But your are not allowed to CARRY outside your home. Exceptions are so rare that they are not worth mentioning.

You need to be either: Active (!) sporting/ competitive shooter OR hunter OR collector. All of these are heavily regulated as well, not only at the mercy of stupid makers of gun-laws but also at the mercy of their federation/ clubs leaderships...some of which seem to be totally out of their minds.

Carsten
 
Deaf, I also have a hard time walking past a Smith or Ruger revolver.
 
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