I`m looking for a DA revolver [357/38] everything I`ve tried, in the past had to heavy a trigger pull. Which guns lend themselves to trigger jobs.... I`ve had very few revolvers in the past but have decided on maybe a 3 inch barrel. I`d like to have about 5 lb. trigger pull, can this be accomplished? I`m hoping not to spend over $500 for the gun and then the customwork would be extra. What choices do I have?
Looking for a revolver with good trigger
- Thread starter jimjc
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jad0110
Member
Hmmm, if you are dead set on a DA revolver trigger of under 5 lbs, your best bet might be a long action S&W (~1948 manufacture and older). Not sure the pull weight on those, but they are so slick and buttery that it really doesn't matter. But in your price range, these would be .38 Special only (K Frames).
I'm not sure that a DA trigger of 5 lbs is possible. The lightest ones I've seen that still maintained reliability are around 7 to 8 lbs, but I could be wrong on that one.
I'm not sure that a DA trigger of 5 lbs is possible. The lightest ones I've seen that still maintained reliability are around 7 to 8 lbs, but I could be wrong on that one.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Not gonna happen in DA.
SA can be 2 1/2 - 3 pounds, but DA is going to be 8 or more likely 10 to be any kind of reliable in a carry gun.
Fancy tuned games guns might be lighter, but they won't get you killed if they mis-fire.
rc
What will you want this revolver for? Defense? Competition?
If you mean a 5-ish lb double action trigger pull, you're talking about a competition-only gun with a radically bobbed hammer. Randy Lee or Mike Carmoney do this type of work. It's really only practical IF it's NOT intended for self defense AND you handload AND you hand-seat each primer AND you only use Federal primers.
As far as triggers go, smooth is better than light. I'd rather have a smooth 13 lb trigger than a 7 lb rough one. Here's some good reading on the subject:
http://www.grantcunningham.com/good_trigger.html
http://www.grantcunningham.com/blog_files/action_performance.html
IMHO, you may find an occasional gem from the factory, but most can be improved considerably by a good action job, which obviously involves more than lightening the springs.
If you mean a 5-ish lb double action trigger pull, you're talking about a competition-only gun with a radically bobbed hammer. Randy Lee or Mike Carmoney do this type of work. It's really only practical IF it's NOT intended for self defense AND you handload AND you hand-seat each primer AND you only use Federal primers.
As far as triggers go, smooth is better than light. I'd rather have a smooth 13 lb trigger than a 7 lb rough one. Here's some good reading on the subject:
http://www.grantcunningham.com/good_trigger.html
http://www.grantcunningham.com/blog_files/action_performance.html
IMHO, you may find an occasional gem from the factory, but most can be improved considerably by a good action job, which obviously involves more than lightening the springs.
roaddog28
Member
Hi,
I agree with the rest that it will be hard to get a revolver with a 5 lb pull in double action. My best double action revolvers are a S&W 13, 19, 66 and 686. all of them will be at 7 to 8 lbs. All of these are great in terms of trigger pull. I have Rugers too but I have had to work on them to get them close to my Smiths. I feel you won't get a better out of the box trigger than with a S&W. The older long action Smiths made before 1947 are the finest I have ever handled. Maybe look for a S&W M&P 38 special 4 inch in a Victory model or any of the M&Ps made in the mid to early 1940s.
Good luck,
Howard
I agree with the rest that it will be hard to get a revolver with a 5 lb pull in double action. My best double action revolvers are a S&W 13, 19, 66 and 686. all of them will be at 7 to 8 lbs. All of these are great in terms of trigger pull. I have Rugers too but I have had to work on them to get them close to my Smiths. I feel you won't get a better out of the box trigger than with a S&W. The older long action Smiths made before 1947 are the finest I have ever handled. Maybe look for a S&W M&P 38 special 4 inch in a Victory model or any of the M&Ps made in the mid to early 1940s.
Good luck,
Howard
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
Even my Mundenized 629MG goes over 7lbs double action but it's slicker than snot on glass.
BCRider
Member
I treated my revolvers to Wolff spring kits. I would like to say that they've been 100% reliable but I'd be lieing. After a few thousand rounds through the guns I can count the fail to fires on the fingers of one hand but it has occured. I've never bothered to check which ammo caused it. If I did it would not be hard to avoid the ammo with harder primers.
I also used the lightest return spring in the kit and even cut off a couple of coils from it since I only shoot in matches and for fun. All of this reduced the pull to around the 7 to 8lb range. It also made the trigger return on anything but a clean and lightly oiled gun somewhat suspect. So far so good for me after almost 2 years but I would not have gone with clipping the spring even further if it were a carry gun.
So I'd have to say that I agree that reaching 5lbs double action just isn't going to happen. Not only will the trigger not work well but you'll get far too many FTF's even with thin primers for any use of the gun let alone self defense.
I also used the lightest return spring in the kit and even cut off a couple of coils from it since I only shoot in matches and for fun. All of this reduced the pull to around the 7 to 8lb range. It also made the trigger return on anything but a clean and lightly oiled gun somewhat suspect. So far so good for me after almost 2 years but I would not have gone with clipping the spring even further if it were a carry gun.
So I'd have to say that I agree that reaching 5lbs double action just isn't going to happen. Not only will the trigger not work well but you'll get far too many FTF's even with thin primers for any use of the gun let alone self defense.
I know Randy Lee of Apex Tactical can get the DA down to about 5lbs with reliable ignition...but it will only be with Federal primers. He can do it on either the L-frame or the N-frame...maybe even the K-frame...but he does it with a re-engineered hammer and Ti cylinder.
I used to shoot a wadcutter only PPC bull barreled K-frame and I was in shock when I first rolled back the trigger on Randy's competition 627. I was even more surprised when it fired off all 8 rounds in the cylinder and both reloads without a bobble...they are utterly reliable as long as you feed them good ammo.
www.ApexTactical.com
I used to shoot a wadcutter only PPC bull barreled K-frame and I was in shock when I first rolled back the trigger on Randy's competition 627. I was even more surprised when it fired off all 8 rounds in the cylinder and both reloads without a bobble...they are utterly reliable as long as you feed them good ammo.
www.ApexTactical.com
Marvin KNox
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I had my two J frame Smiths done by Randy Lee at Apex Tactical:
http://www.apextactical.com/
I carry them and shoot them all the time and they don't misfire. Even revolver experts pull the trigger on them and are amazed by the smoothness - expecially the 640.
They came in around 8# DA, which is as light as Randy says J frames can go and have dependability with all carry ammo.
K frames can come in around 6# and still remain dependable if I remember what he told me about them. 5# would probably compromise dependability too much IMO.
His Level III work would probably work for you on a K frame. It is usally done on competition guns. But I'm thinking that since it is for Winchester primers (among the hardest of primers) it would work out for carry purposes. That's the way I'd go if I were going with a larger frame.
K's can be had in .38/.357 renditions used but only .38+p new. If you want to purchase new you'll have to step up to an L frame gun for the .357 magnums.
IMO, though, very well chosen .38+p carry ammo will do the trick.
My 2cents worth!
http://www.apextactical.com/
I carry them and shoot them all the time and they don't misfire. Even revolver experts pull the trigger on them and are amazed by the smoothness - expecially the 640.
They came in around 8# DA, which is as light as Randy says J frames can go and have dependability with all carry ammo.
K frames can come in around 6# and still remain dependable if I remember what he told me about them. 5# would probably compromise dependability too much IMO.
His Level III work would probably work for you on a K frame. It is usally done on competition guns. But I'm thinking that since it is for Winchester primers (among the hardest of primers) it would work out for carry purposes. That's the way I'd go if I were going with a larger frame.
K's can be had in .38/.357 renditions used but only .38+p new. If you want to purchase new you'll have to step up to an L frame gun for the .357 magnums.
IMO, though, very well chosen .38+p carry ammo will do the trick.
My 2cents worth!
Jesse Heywood
Member
As a rule of thumb, the better the trigger you begin with, the less money it takes to make it the best. The Smith is one of the easiest to rework, and most any good revolver gunsmith can do a good trigger job. I would recommend you first find a gunsmith or two and talk with them before investing in a gun. Then you should have a far better idea of what to look for and how much to pay.
I guess that would depend on how you defined good...or even acceptable.Jesse Heywood said:
I agree that the S&W action is one of the easiest to work on...not being enclosed like that of the Ruger nor requiring the artistry of balance of the leafspring powered Colts...there are many gunsmiths who work on their actions, who's results are very questionable. It is very easy to smooth some parts in a S&W action, following either books or videos...even I have done it some...but to get to the level that the OP is asking about would be beyond most people.
Pistolsmiths who developed the ability to optimize the S&W action...like Powers, Glenn and Lee (these are ones I actually have experience with)...take the action to a whole different level
*Klutch*
Member
___________
This 38 only statement is not true. You can find K frames for your budget, you are just going to have to look a little harder to find a nice one. The model 65 can be had for your price and basically it's a model 10 but in 357 mag, thee were also model 10's that were 357 mag, I'm not sure of the designation but they did exist. The 65 is readily available and I believe they were available in 3" but don't quote me on that.
here's a link to one for sale:
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Jesse Heywood
Member
What is needed is more input from the OP as to what he wants. I'm hoping that wanting a 5# trigger is for single action. In another thread he is looking at a Dick special.
Deanimator
Member
Light isn't the issue.
Smooth is the issue.
You don't want the pull so heavy that you could hang a bucket of coal off of the trigger, but once it's down to the minimum reliable weight, it needs to be SMOOTH, and that's work for a decent smith.
Smooth is the issue.
You don't want the pull so heavy that you could hang a bucket of coal off of the trigger, but once it's down to the minimum reliable weight, it needs to be SMOOTH, and that's work for a decent smith.
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