What I am sticking to with this rifle is to have an all purpose lightweight 20" rifle. I have a 20" gov profile upper I want to free float to increase the level of accuracy which can be counted upon. This will be my first upper work though I have done a few lowers. I am looking for suggestions on a lightweight aluminum free floating tube or handguard to install. I am not looking for a quad rail, though the ability to add a rail at the front later might be something I would want. Looking for reliability and lightweight as the top priority. Second, I am not sold on the fixed front sight gas block which is currently there and was wondering if I could replace that while I am at it with either a railed gas block which could accomodate a folding front sight, or just a lopro gas block. First time with this hence the questions. Thanks.
looking for ar free floating tube / gas block suggestion
- Thread starter dvdcrr
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Look at the Troy Industries Alpha Hnadguard.
Comes in several lengths, with or without cut outs for a front sight. Modular so that rails can be added. Uses the standard barrel nut.
I have several and have been pleased with them.
Comes in several lengths, with or without cut outs for a front sight. Modular so that rails can be added. Uses the standard barrel nut.
I have several and have been pleased with them.
LaRue low gas block and a Troy Alpha tube works like a charm. I have the 15" Alpha tube on my AR and it clears the LaRue low profile gas block with no problem. The tube covers the block so I have a nice streamlined look and I can always attach rail sections if I want.
Troy and Midwest Industries make pretty decent lightweight free float modular rails. You can run a google search for "modular free float handgaurds" and you will find all kinds of sizes and styles from all kinds of manufacturers. Personally, I am going with the Samson Evolution for my current build.
One option for the gasblock is to cut down the sight post. There are tutorials all over the place and I believe even youtube videos. It really is pretty simple and when you are finished, you have a low profile pinned gasblock. Just something to think about.
One option for the gasblock is to cut down the sight post. There are tutorials all over the place and I believe even youtube videos. It really is pretty simple and when you are finished, you have a low profile pinned gasblock. Just something to think about.
allaroundhunter
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I run a 15" Samson Evolution over a LaRue low gas block and it runs like a charm.
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henschman
Member
What is there not to be "sold" on about the factory front sight gas block? It is attached with taper pins, and is therefore much more securely attached than any of the after market options, which use friction fit. With a rifle-length gas system, it gives you a nice sight radius. Plus you can still mount a bayonet if you need to... hey, you never know! 
I would get a Midwest Industries SS 12" free float tube, and keep the factory pinned front sight. The MI-SS is very light weight, and has mounting holes that let you attach rails and accessories just when and where you need them.
I am not a fan of having the front sight attached to the handguard. The whole point of a free float handguard is that it flexes independently of the barrel. Having your front sight flexing independently of the barrel as well is NOT a good thing when it comes to hitting your target. Maybe it isn't a huge deal if optics are going to be used primarily, and if the irons are just for last-ditch emergency use... but I say why not do it right if you have the option. I will take sights attached to the barreled action any time it is possible.
I would get a Midwest Industries SS 12" free float tube, and keep the factory pinned front sight. The MI-SS is very light weight, and has mounting holes that let you attach rails and accessories just when and where you need them.
I am not a fan of having the front sight attached to the handguard. The whole point of a free float handguard is that it flexes independently of the barrel. Having your front sight flexing independently of the barrel as well is NOT a good thing when it comes to hitting your target. Maybe it isn't a huge deal if optics are going to be used primarily, and if the irons are just for last-ditch emergency use... but I say why not do it right if you have the option. I will take sights attached to the barreled action any time it is possible.
Ok update. Took a big blue hammer and 3/32 nail set punch and beat those pins out. Now we have a clean 20" barrel, the possibilities! What I need to know now is will just about any low profile block go right on there where it was a A2 with the milled out pin holes. What do you think
I wouldn't buy one, I had one they are fun but you are paying a lot of $$$ to look cool or like a mall ninja depending on the stuff you hang on it. I would get a moe handguards or a drop in rail if you must but this is from someone who runs the old triangle handguards so you should consider the source before decide not to be a mall ninja lol. Personally I would buy the slim Troy rail if I was going to and use a low profile gas block.
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But you do not have to hang anything off them. The only addition to my Troy Alphas are a sling stud so that i can use my bipods.
They can be personalized to the owners preferences.
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AlexanderA
Member
I have a Yankee Hill Machine full-length quad-rail hanguard and an A.R.M.S. gas block with integral folding front sight, on a flat-top upper and 20 in. heavy-profile barrel. The bipod legs (Commando Arms) are attached directly to the side rails. (Light weight was not one of my criteria.) YMMV
If you have rails or the ability to add them then you will at some point add something stupid to your rifle, my point is if you aren't going to hang crap on the rifle then why do you need a rail? As far as free floating goes it really depends on your AR as to weather or not it will help a milspec 20" ar is already very accurate I had a stock rock river that shot 1/2 MOA consistently, I also had a smith m&p or that shot 4 MOA before free floating and 3/4 afterwards that was a gas block issue though (look up the OR you'll see what I'm talking about) I guess what I'm saying is you don't always need to free float
madcratebuilder
Member
Go with the tube style, much lighter and you add rail sections if you want them. What ever low pro gas block you get be sure it's steel and not aluminum, the aluminum ones are junk.
Check out the Apex hand guards, super light, integrated QD swivel points and the gator grip is great.
Check out the Apex hand guards, super light, integrated QD swivel points and the gator grip is great.
YHM uses a special barrel nut that ony works with their products and thus requires a special tool. I had a YHM quad rail before I bought my Troy and it was heavy and rather klunky. if it were me I'd stick with something that uses the stock barrel nut. Less work that way.
The wrench is not for the barrel nut, on which a regular barrel nut wrench works. The wrench is for the indexing ring. I indexed mine without buying their wrench. I like the YHM "tactical" fft. Have installed three or four of them.
http://www.brownells.com/rifle-part.../ar-15-m16-tactical-handguards-prod21647.aspx
http://www.brownells.com/rifle-part.../ar-15-m16-tactical-handguards-prod21647.aspx
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