Looking for making lead bullet tips

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LKLive13

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Im looking to get into smelting and making my own lead bullets for 9mm. First things first before I get too excited... Are there any problems with running lead bullets through my XD9SC? Next, is it really worth the investment to buy up all the stuff to make the leads...What are the pros and cons? Finally, What is the best way to go about getting into doing it?
 
We've already had some other threads talking about this, but there are some big health concerns with doing this.

Having proper ventilation, safe handling procedures, and effective breathing apparatuses to keep the lead from seeping into your system are just a few areas of consideration.
 
Don't do it!!!!!!!

It's main problem is it is INCREDIBLY addicting.

There are issues you need to learn about however, and the best resource I have found is

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/

Everything and anything to do with casting is on that site. READ, READ, READ, then read some more.

May even be able to find a mentor who is willing to teach you locally... You don't want a visit from the tinsel fairy, trust me on this.
 
There are health concerns but if your in well ventilated area you got nothing to worry about. You will worry yourself sick if you let it bug you. Get the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook. It address all of that and will give you some good ideas. It has a lot of good loads in it too. Cast bullets should work just fine in your gun. I run cast bullets through my Springfield XD 45 and XDM 45 without any problems. I do suggest starting with the Lee molds as they are cheap but very well made. I love all of my LEE molds. If you like casting you can later spend the extra money for the more expensive molds. If you plan to shoot a lot it will save you a good amount of money. It does take time but its worth it. One other recommendation is to get the LEE six cavity mold. If you buy the two cavity mold you will get tired after a while and will wish you could speed things up. They do cost a bit more though. Either way I think you will enjoy it. Even if you don't shoot a lot it can be very satisfying.
 
Thanks for the links. I do tend to shoot upwards of 1K rounds a month when I go to all of the events for the month. If I only make it to my IDPA nights I usually only go through about 500 or so a month so either way I think it would save me a little in the long run. If I do go through with doing it I plan to smelt in my garage so as long as I open the door I don't think ventilation should be a problem.
 
Good God, I've spent more money in casting equipment than I've probably saved making bullets.

But the others are right. It IS addicting.

Just wait until you try the quest for the ultimate lube, and end up powder-coating your bullets with a HF electrostatic gun!
 
Health concerns?

Really?

I started casting lead solders and fishing sinkers on my moms gas kitchen range.
In 1950 something when I was about 8.

And I have been bullet casting regularly since 1962.

Maybe thats why I no longer feel as healthy as I used too?

Or maybe it's because I turn 70 in two months?

Yea!
That has way more to do with it then 64 years of playing around with molten lead for hours at a time for a lifetime.

rc
 
I agree you should run the other way while you can. It's like a vortex, it will suck you in and never let you out.


I second the castboolits forum as well as starting out with a few Lee molds and their tumble lube system. Cheap easy and effective.
 
If you shoot enough to strive towards $2 boxes of ammo- well yeah start casting. But if you just shoot a few boxes a month out of that gun, id certainly just buy some copper plated bullets.
 
Having proper ventilation, safe handling procedures, and effective breathing apparatuses to keep the lead from seeping into your system are just a few areas of consideration.

Lead "seeping" into you? I have cast bullets for years in my unventilated basement and no breathing apparatus except for my nose and mouth, and my lead level is extremely low. Keep your unwashed hands out of your nose and mouth and you will have no "seepage".

Don
 
I jumped in about three years ago after reading and re-reading things for about a 8 or so month period prior. It finally got to the point I was getting information overload so I got to pouring.

My initial goal was to simply feed the appetite of my 454 with my own cast bullets. It only took about a month to reclaim any expenditures for that one. Then I found out I was in trouble, after the third mold showed up.

Now I have over two dozen of them, and about half are the nice brass MP brand which I can pour up several different types of the same bullet with the same mold. Just seemed logical to be able to cast two to three different HP's as well as a nice solid form the same mold.

Going with the Lee 6 cavity will be your best bet in the long run but they have a small learning curve to start off with. Get the 2 cavity first and learn the basics on what your doing then splurge for the 6, and go to town.

The biggest issue you will face will be the hardness and fit for your particular barrel. Once you have that your good to go. The lube will be trial and error but Alox has worked on a ton of loads and will keep on working.

Good luck and don't say you haven't been warned.....
 
Health concerns; hhmmmm, maybe if you drop a pig of lead on your sneaker clad foot. I was introduced to casting in 1956, well before the advent of the wonderful, life fulfilling, life preserving, conservationist EPA. Been at it ever since. I wear gloves, don't lick my fingers, don't eat or drink while in the operation. I had my lead/blood level checked last year as part of my annual physical. Level was in the lower level of normal for a man of 68 years. Get all the info you can and venture forth!!!
 
Let's see, .07 cents vs .35-.50 each for store bought ammo and you shoot upwards of 1k per month, do the math. Is it worth it?

Do focus on health concerns and you should be good to go..
 
If you can secure a source of cheap or free lead, then you can probably recoup your investment at some point (depends on how much you shoot). A Lee production pot and aluminum mold will get you started. If your lead source is wheel weights, you'll need to smelt them down first to clean up the lead and pour them into ingots. A camp stove, cheap muffin tin and a small cast iron pot or skillet is all you need for smelting.

Lead does not create toxic fumes at normal casting temperatures, but smelting should absolutely be done outside or in a well ventilated area due to other impurities that will burn off. By far the largest health concern with lead poisoning is transfer from your hands to your mouth/eyes/nose. Luckily, soap and water will take care of that.
 
A huge advantage

After working up a good accurate load with your molds and firearm, you don't have to worry about finding that shape style weight bullet for sale again. Cast bullet vendors run out of stock or close shop frequently.
You can always cast more of your own.
cast bullets are good trading stock for primers and powder.
 
Avoid lee single and double cavity molds, any single or double by anybody is slow,. but lee's get misaligned easily. ditto RCBS molds. 4-6 cavity molds, by Lee, are a great deal. Don't bother with any sizing machine but the Star. If you don't want to spend that sort of money, (ie, $300 used) then size them with the Lee hand sizer (in a reloading press( and lube them with Lee's Alox liquid. lube, just add the lube to some bullets in a shallow pan and shake the pan a bit. presto, lubed bullets. :)

Take a shovel, a heavy-duty picture frame, some ratwire and a big wood or metal box (I use an old dishwasher housing). and go to some public ranges. Look for the places that are the most shot up, and "mine" them for the lead. A metal detector is sometimes helps, too. Copper or steel jackets float to the top of the melting pot. Get an old propane-fired plumber's furnace on ebay or craigslist. Get a cast iron pot, skillet wide, but 6" deep, at Wally's, so you can melt 100 lbs at a time. BEWARE solder from wiped metal pipes, and also beware zinc wheelweights, or the adhesive backed wheelweights. ONE such piece will ruin an entire potful of lead for casting puposes.

Beware copper-plated, steel battery cable ends. Beware busting up old batteries for the lead plates. The acid "explodes' liquid lead. You must first "soak" the plates for days in water buckets, then dry them out thoroughly, before casting with them as alloy. Beware ice or water in the bottom of the buckets or barrels that lead comes in from the scrap yard! Beware live rds mixed in range lead! iI you pour these things into molten lead, the liquid lead will be splashed all over everything within 10 ft or so. It STICKS to your clothing/skin, guy.

Molten lead will start fires, if paper or wood falls into it. Use a soft plastic mallet to strike open the sprueplate on your mold. never strike the mold body with anything. They are very soft. Have partical board under you where you cast. If you drop a mold, especially an aluminum mold, to concrete, you've probably ruined it. Use the handled, spouted pouring ladle, or you'll get a lot of bullets with rounded bases. The electric pots are too expensive, small and slow.

Casting sux, so if you can't set up to make 500 or more finished bullets per hour, it's not worth the risks/effort/expense. Try to buy used gear, from ebay or craiglist, with testing/right of return agreements, in writing or on the spot of sale. Get a stainless steel wire brush for cleaning out build up crud in the mold. don't use a plastic toothbrush unless the mold is COLD. Even just a warm mold will melt the plastic into the mold cavity, causing you all sorts of grieve. Keep an old electric hotplate plugged in, so as to pre-heat your molds, and to keep them warm while you take a break.

If you don't yet have 1000 lbs of scrap lead, don't bother to invest in this gear. You will lose about 10% of weight when you clean up the lead. You'll probably have to add a bit of (very expensive) antimony and tin, to get good 9mm bullets. I suggest no more than 900 fps, with velocities closer to 800 fps being better for accuracy and lack of fouling in your bore. That means 150 gr bullets, approximately.
 
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Let's see, .07 cents vs .35-.50 each for store bought ammo and you shoot upwards of 1k per month, do the math. Is it worth it?

I do reload and im at about .14 cents now but I would like to go a little lower if that's possible... My "is it worth it" was meant to mean is it worth it to make my own lead cast or is it just as cheap to buy berrys plated bullets.

After working up a good accurate load with your molds and firearm, you don't have to worry about finding that shape style weight bullet for sale again. Cast bullet vendors run out of stock or close shop frequently.
You can always cast more of your own.
cast bullets are good trading stock for primers and powder.

I didn't look at it that way... Thanks again everyone!
 
Safe handling procedures:
Try to do it outside, a well ventilated area will work. There are no lead 'fumes' that require hazmat gear (lead it a liquid at that tempurature, not a gas!), but at 650-700 degrees you'll want some fresh air, and theres always that smell of the pot metal heating up... yuck.

Dont eat the lead. The only way to get lead in your system is to ingest it. It cannot seep into your skin by touching it.
Likewise, wash your hands when you're done and don't touch your face while casting.

WEAR GLOVES. I slipped on a 5$ pair of welders gloves after I got a nasty splatter burn on my hand. The smell of cooking flesh (700 degree lead...) isnt very nice.
WEAR SAFETY GLASSES. Carol didn't, now she doesn't need them! (High school safety poster, anyone?) You only got 2 eyes. A 2$ pair of safety goggles will be money well spent. Just something to catch the splatter should it connect with your face.

Lube the molds. You can buy sprue plate lube, but I just use some DARR lube which I use to lubricate the bullet anyways as my sprue plate lube. Prevents galling and works fine.


...don't eat the lead? That's pretty much it.
 
LKLive13, good thing I saw this thread before I sent you the small primer 45 cases.

I will also PIF an assortment of various brand 9mm lead bullets/types so you can try them out in your pistol and decide which works best for you.
 
Im looking to get into smelting and making my own lead bullets for 9mm. First things first before I get too excited... Are there any problems with running lead bullets through my XD9SC? Next, is it really worth the investment to buy up all the stuff to make the leads...What are the pros and cons? Finally, What is the best way to go about getting into doing it?
I cast all of my hand gun bullets. Boy does that save me money and I can shoot a lot more.
 
Given a source of cheap lead then it's a good idea to smelt and cast. I did it for years when wheel weights were free enough or cheap enough - bottle of soda or a doughnut for a 5 gallon bucket.

These days wheel weights are often lead free and all the rest of it.

If you are going to buy lead and alloys and pay shipping then might as well buy cast bullets.
 
If you are going to buy lead and alloys and pay shipping then might as well buy cast bullets.

Lets see here,

Mold 2 cavity - around $25 including shipping, the 6 cavity around $50

Heat source depends on new or rounded up locally, but figure in the $50 are for an average of high or low. I got a heck of a turkey cooker for only $40, and that included the pot and everything brand new in the box from Academy AND made in the USA.

Cast iron pot or SS pot for smelting and or pouring form roughly $10 at thrift store or Goodwill. (don't even try it with aluminum)

Ladle or spoon for pouring with $10 depending on where it comes from.

Roughly $125 for a basic set up. Oh throw in $25 for sizing dies. Ok call it $150, and thats with the 6 cavity mold.

For MCB - 147gr FP - $34.50 per 500 = $14 for up to 2K bullets.
Ummm - 147 x 500 / 7000 =10.5#

$70 per 65-70# of alloy delivered to your door via USPS MFRB (shipping is included in that price) = 3095 - 147gr bullets give or take.

3095 / 500 = 6.5 which x 34.50 = $213.50 give or take a dollar.

So for roughly $150 in equipment which will be used over and over, plus $70 for a box of WW alloy, you get $220 for the initial investment. However the next investment is only $70 for the next $213's worth of bullets.

I know I haven't figured in the cost of labor for doing it yourself, but hey if you going to figure that it cost me nearly $40 just to cover the three S's every morning just so I can go to work to earn that 40 per hr.

So unless you actually figure in the cost of each and everything you do in life, well my math says you come out ahead doing it yourself. Of course I just barley got through Algebra so I might not be formulating this properly at all. Feel free to throw in corrections where needed.
 
Maybe so. I can't touch those prices myself.
plus $70 for a box of WW alloy,
As it happens I have some 70 pound boxes of honest wheel weight alloy blend and so marked with lead, tin, antimony shown. Works nicely with heat treating but I paid rather more than a dollar a pound and was happy to do so for known clean alloy. If you'll deliver 70 pound flat rate boxes of wheel weight alloy - alloy clean and ready to cast not mixed wheel weights with zinc and steel and iron and dirt - for $1 per pound I'll cheerfully give you a fair amount of business

Bill and lots of other sources for tin and antimony aren't there anymore either. Capitalism being what it is and looking at advertised prices from vendors doing an ongoing business I bet folks are willing to pay
98-2 Range Lead: Full Flat Rate Box $135.00
as produced by:
We take the scrap material and melt it in our own custom smelter 500 pounds at a time. We scrape off the bullet jackets, flux and then pour into our own custom ingot moulds.
No doubt taking advantage of the public in these times of shortages but the vendor is staying in business at those prices. Castboolits has even done group buys for specific alloys.

Cherry picking a high cost vendor most people will recognize in Midway USA the prices for fancy alloys are much higher. Best ready to use
Certified Hardball Bullet Casting Alloy Ingot (2% Tin, 6% Antimony, 92% Lead) Approximately 6 lb Average Weight $24.99
Good for hardening scrap lead and range scrap (lots of range scrap started as rimfire and pretty soft
Certified Hardening Bullet Casting Alloy Ingot (30% Antimony, 70% Lead) Approximately 6 lb Average Weight $31.99
I suspect but don't know that somebody is willing to pay those prices because Midway has some out of stock backorder OK alloys.

Myself I've had multiple Star resizers and some molds that cost a good deal more than the prices shown and well worth it. I might suggest something more as a fair investment. I started reloading 9X19 with a 310 tool when that and the original pound on it Lee were the cheap alternatives. These days I have a nice 6 station progressive with a case feeder. I wouldn't call either one typical reloading setups for 9X19 but something in the middle. Similarly I'd likely spend rather more to get back into casting if I wasn't equipped. But I go through times coming up dry scavenging metal when it isn't worth buying from a smelter when I can buy from somebody with Magma equipment at the gunshow. When I was worried about shooting more 30 years ago gallery pistol indoors I used #130 with Bullseye and Alox/beeswax rather cheaper than good rimfire. I weighed my match bullets dead nut to the limit of my scale so that before lubing the bullets all weighed the same no +/- the same to the limit of the 10-10 scale. I wouldn't expect that from commercial bullet casters. Then again I couldn't buy points then and wouldn't expect it to matter now either.
 
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