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M&P 15-22 flash hider removal

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by Tempest 455, Dec 6, 2012.

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  1. Tempest 455

    Tempest 455 Member

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    M&P 15-22 flash hider removal:

    I specifically bought the threaded barrel w/ flash hider model so I could install my can.

    First off, I'm not a stranger to mechanical things, so I did what I usually would in this situation with any threaded, stuck part. I first used some pentrating oil, heated it up w/ a torch more than I was comfortable with (smoking hot) with the barrel in a vise and a foot long 3/4 open end and it did not budge.

    Rather than constant tension of a wrench, I used a rubber mallet to "impact" it off. That usually works for me. However, nothing. The gun did turn in the vise which did not help. My concern was over clamping and distorting the integrity of the barrel.

    I'm not certain how tight you can clamp these barrels?

    I'm at the point of letting a smith tackle this. Anyone have an idea how tight you can clamp one of these 15-22 barrels?
     
  2. M-Cameron

    M-Cameron member

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    how long did you let it sit in the penetrating oil? i know if things are really stuck, you may need to let it soak for a few days.


    also, i would try using strap wrenches.....there is less of a chance of marring or pinching the barrel.
     
  3. Tempest 455

    Tempest 455 Member

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    Tried a strap wrench, forgot to mention that. That clamps less than a vise.

    Still trying to determine how much I can clamp in a vise before it becomes a problem.
     
  4. BearGriz

    BearGriz Member

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    I seem to recall reading somewhere that it is secured on with blue locktight (sp?) and someone was successful getting it off after applying some heat.

    But don't go applying too much heat on my account! Try googling it with that search term.
     
  5. BBBBill

    BBBBill Member

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    Pinned? Loctite? Left hand thread? Worst case, sacrifice the flash hider to the Dremel.
     
  6. Tempest 455

    Tempest 455 Member

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    It's not pinned. I used lots of heat.

    Dremel/grinder may be the best option.
     
  7. Kp321

    Kp321 Member

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    Remove the hand guards so you can clamp directly on the barrel. It would be best if you had a real barrel vise but a large bench vise with hardwood inserts will work. Bore a hole in a hardwood block a little smaller than the barrel, split it and clamp the barrel in your bench vise using the block. A little powdered rosin will help the grip on the barrel. With the wood blocks you can't squeeze the barrel hard enough to damage it.
     
  8. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

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    +1
    And then hit the wrench with a real hammer, not a rubber mallet.

    A rubber mallet transmits no shock to break a tight joint at all.

    rc
     
  9. Mac's

    Mac's Member

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    I've got one here in the shop and I checked it. It was standard right handed threads with a little bit of some kind of thread locker residue on the threads. I clamped the front end of the barrel in a barrel vise and used an AR type multi wrench on it. It popped loose by hand with no beating, heating or bleeding. Maybe somebody in the past thought yours was left handed threads and cranked it on really tight?

    The barrel vise was this one.

    http://www.midwayusa.com/product/372329/model-1-barrel-vise-jaws-ar-15-aluminum

    I didn't have to remove the front end guards. There was enough barrel sticking out past it for the vise to clamp onto. Keep yer powder dry, Mac.
    Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All.
    Mac's Shootin' Irons
    http://www.shootiniron.com
     
  10. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

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    Mac's, that sounds about right!!

    But with the barrel slipping in a vice without blocks that isn't tight, and beating on a wrench with a rubber mallet?

    It probably wouldn't have turned out like that though.

    rc
     
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