M1 Garand questions

Status
Not open for further replies.

Tulric

Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2008
Messages
5
Location
Chicagoland area, Illinois
The main thing thats preventing me from getting an M1 is the apparent ammo restraints. I've done some research and I've learned that the M1 should be restricted to mil-spec 30-06 ammo and should not be used with modern ammo.
The only mil-spec stuff I'm seeing out there is old Greek ammo, and when that's all gone, then what?
Also, if I buy a rifle, I want to be able to shoot it when I want to shoot it. I don't want just a collectors item to hang on the wall and show off. Being that the model I'm looking at is from the Korea era, how much life is left in these things?
I'm a big history buff and love the M1, but are my concerns warranted?
As for taking it out to the range, I'm talking maybe a couple hundred rounds a year.
Yes, I do reload pistol rounds. I've never reloaded rifle rounds though, and even so, I don't know if it's a good idea to have a rifle around that relies on only reloaded ammo. Any thoughts?
 
get one. They are magnificent. the ammo thing is over-rated. Black Hills (gold) and Hornady (AMAX) make ammo well suited for the M1. You can also reload for it, and the use of normal hunting ammo has contradicting opinions all around. With fresh springs, I think (IMHO) the M1 should be ok. Weak springs, worn hardware, and strong modern ammo could lead to eventual damage.
 
There is no real reason that you shouldn't enjoy owning and shooting an M1 Garand. You already know how to reload, and rifles are no different than pistol to reload other than no need to use a neck expander. If you use a quality 150gr flat base bullet with 48gr of IMR4895, you can duplicate the load that was designed for the M1. It's not necessary to use Milsurp ball bullets should you choose not to. You can use a soft point, because it's all about the pressure curve.
150gr bullet at 2750fps is no slouch and will easily take a deer should you choose to hunt with it.
Don't deny yourself if it's about having to reload.

NCsmitty
 
I have several Garand rifles. The Greek ammo will run out and commercial ammo can bend the op rod. However, you can still lay in a couple thousand round of the Greek and reuse the cases to reload when the Greek is gone. If you reload carefully, uniform the primer pockets and use military primers you won't have any problems. How long will they shoot at a couple of hundred rounds a year? How long do you plan on living? I would wager that you will not wear it out as long as you use a muzzle guide to clean it.
 
you could also get a schuster adjustable gas plug and shoot anything in it you want, although i dont think it as big a deal as folks make it out to be.

the garand is not a fragile rifle. its actually tough as nails.

you will also be amazed at the accuracy. with a barrel in service grade condition, moa accuracy is work-a-day stuff for a garand with nice tight stock fitment.

my brother recently pulled down a 8 shot 1 1/2" group with his service grade springfield at 200 yards.

8 SHOT GROUP!!!!!!!

Picture 014.jpg

Picture 015.jpg
 
Thanks for the responses, guys!

Hey Marsche, what do you mean by "uniform the primer pockets", and where do you find military primers?

If I buy normal 3006 brass and use normal primers along with IMR4895 at 48gr.,
is that basically the same thing?
 
The M1 Garand firing pin is not retained by a spring and when the bolt closes the pin fly's forward and hits the primer. It is just the way the gun works. If you reload for a Garand you want the primers seated deep in the pocket below the case and you want to use a hard primer. A pocket uniformer is a tool that will remove a certain amount of brass from the bottom of the pocket and it will make all of the pockets uniform in depth. The tools come in large and small for large and small primers and it fits into an electric drill. Sinclair International sells them for about $25. I recommend buying the uniformer and the drill adapter. Doing them with a handle by hand is torture.

CCI sells military primers. They are labeled NO 34 PRIMERS FOR 7.62 NATO, 30-06, AND 7.62X39 AMMUNITION.

Commercial brass should (my opinion) have the pockets uniformed if you are going to reload for any semi-auto rifle that has a floating firing pin, like the M1 or the M16. If you have an AR 15, take it to the range and insert a loaded magazine and fire a round. Then eject the round that is in the chamber and you will plainly see a dent on the primer. The M1 Garand will do the same thing with a little more force behind the pin. There is a lot of talk about the dangers of reloading for a Garand. This is the reason. You have to take care when you reload for an M1 Garand just because of the way the rifle works. If you prepare your brass and uniform the pockets (one time operation), use hard primers, and load to correct pressure you will not have a problem. If you don't prep the brass and use the right primers you run the risk of a slam fire. If you load hot you run the risk of a bent rod.
 
Last edited:
You have to take care when you reload for an M1 Garand just because of the way the rifle works. If you prepare your brass and uniform the pockets (one time operation), use hard primers, and load to correct pressure you will not have a problem. If you don't prep the brass and use the right primers you run the risk of a slam fire. If you load hot you run the risk of a bent rod.

Two thumbs up.
 
Don't worry about the muzzle guide, they took a 2.0 gaged M1, an tried to destroy it with the ramrod, deliberatly slamming an rubbing it inside the barrel.....it took 66,000 strokes to make it 3.0 gaged! Then they shot it an it it got a 1.5 in. grouping with 10 shots! The same was done with a 1.0 gaged muzzle an it got 1.5 in. grouping also....TUFF barrels I would say
CGA, volume 23. issue 2, page 21-22
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top