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M1 Garand

Discussion in 'Rifle Country' started by rero360, Feb 8, 2006.

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  1. rero360

    rero360 Member

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    I sent the paper work in the other day to CMP to get a service grade SA garand, I'm going to have to wait two to three months to get it but it will be worth the wait. Question: is the stock going to be soaked in cosmoline, or are the stocks generally free of the goo? I don't think my mom would appreciate me cooking the stock in her oven. everything else I'll be able to figure out once I get it in my hot little hands. and I'll have pics when I get it.
     
  2. mustanger98

    mustanger98 Member

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    My rifle's stock was kinda greasy, but it cleaned up good. Just rub it down liberally with mineral spirits and it should cut it pretty easy. When you get it lightened up as far as it'll clean up, just start rubbing it with boiled linseed oil (BLO) and that'll take several coats over a couple of weeks. The more you rub into it, the better it'll look.
     
  3. rero360

    rero360 Member

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    thanks, I look foreward to getting it into my possession
     
  4. jagdpanzer347

    jagdpanzer347 Member

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    You'll love it. Hard hitting piece of American history. Exceptional sights and trigger. Plus, you get the CHING at no extra cost!!!
    -jagd.
     
  5. alamo

    alamo Member

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    The Garands generally don't have much cosmoline as they are cleaned up some for test firing by the CMP. The 1903s are not test fired and they are generally slathered in cosmoline likke the 1903A3 I got a few months ago. Big clean-up job.
     
  6. Pafrmu

    Pafrmu Member

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    Do Garands kick more than a shotgun shooting birdshot or less?
     
  7. pbhome71

    pbhome71 Member

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    For me, it kicks way less than a shotgun.
     
  8. USMCRotrHed

    USMCRotrHed Member

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    CMP Garands

    I have 1 Garand that I bought at a gun show. I have another coming from CMP right now. For service grade SA, the wait seems to be about 50 days from the date the order is accepted (I did a poll on their forum).

    To me the "kick" is just a little more than an AR-15. It is less than all the shotguns I've ever shot, but most of them are pump-action and not semi-auto.

    Beware, Garanditis is very contagious. The more M-1s you get, the more you want. I bought the one at the gun show to "curb my appetite" while I'm waiting on the one from CMP. I'm already contemplating another order. I want a match AR-15 pretty bad too, so I'm trying hard to hold off on another Garand until I get the AR.
     
  9. P-32

    P-32 Member

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    The CMP service grade I got a few years back had way less goop on it than the DCM I had gotten back in the 80's.

    Wimmins shoot the M-1 with little complaint. But there is way more kick than a AR has, Sorry USMC.

    Find a John C. Garand match during the warm part of the year and shoot it. They are a Hoot! Plenty of guys willing to help if you don't undstand something.

    I also strongly suggest a bore guide for the cleaning rod going down the Muzzel. These can be had at Creedmore Sports or Champions Choice.
     
  10. USMCRotrHed

    USMCRotrHed Member

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    No appologies necessary. I guess I need to give my point of reference for clarity though.

    I usually shoot an AR, an M-1, and an M1903. The M-1 is closer to the AR than the '03, plus I weigh in at about 250. So to me the M-1 doesn't kick too bad.
     
  11. Chipperman

    Chipperman Member

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    Well, the 03 certainly kicks more than the M1. As far as a comparison to shotguns, weight plays a big role. How many shotguns weigh as much as an M1?
     
  12. kentucky_smith

    kentucky_smith Member

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    Sent my order in Monday for a rack grade. Am shaking with anticipation.
     
  13. HankB

    HankB Member

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    I got a CMP Garand a little over a year ago, and I'm probably going to send in another order in the next week or two - most likely, for another SG and then one of the lower grades for eventual rebarreling to .308 . . . and maybe a Tanker conversion, if I can find someone with a rep for making them reliable.

    CMP Garand stocks can come anywhere from relatively clean to really grungy. Mine was dirty, and had several layers of tape baked on down by the buttstock where they put rack numbers. This was really really, HARD to get off.

    When cleaning a Garand stock, start with something like Murphy's Oil Soap - if you're lucky, this will do the trick.

    If not, you can then try 0000 steel wool with a little mineral spirits or acetone (I used the latter) though you may have to work on the finished stock with stain and 100% pure tung oil to get it back up to snuff.

    If it's really oil-soaked, running the stock through the dishwasher (!) seems to be a preferred method for cleaning it up - be sure to remove it BEFORE the "dry" cycle, as the heat may overdry and crack/warp the stock.

    In really extreme cases, suspending the stock and spraying it down with "Easy Off" oven cleaner will strip it right down - but it's hard on the top layer of wood.

    You'll want to use the minumum necessary, especially if the stock has some interesting cartouches you want to preserve.
     
  14. Firehand

    Firehand Member

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    They do vary a lot. If it looks to be in pretty good shape, I'd start by using mineral spirits and a brush(get a wallpaper tray to do it in) to clean all the surface stuff off. It won't harm the wood, does a good job of stripping the old grease/oil off, and lets you look the wood over before doing anything else. Sometimes there are some real interesting cartouches, marks, etc. hiding under the surface crud. If so, then you can do more gentle methods to completely degrease it before refinishing.

    I'd have to argue about using linseed oil. On new wood it can be pretty good stuff; on old wood I don't really like it, it tends to darken the wood- sometimes a LOT- and can sometimes actually soften it a bit. I much better like Tru Oil. I'm trying out something I read about at Fulton Armory's site, use Minwax Natural stain to seal the surface, then the Minwax Tung Oil finish over that; supposed to do a good job of protecting the wood and gives the same appearance as the original finish.
     
  15. mustanger98

    mustanger98 Member

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    I like TruOil too. I've used it several times now on Mauser and Enfield stocks. Seems the more you put on, the better it gets. I was talking about BLO because purists like it better being an original finish. Those guys tend to cuss some of us for using TruOil, but I'd be just as happy to use TruOil on a Garand stock. It does give it a nice hard shiney look.:D
     
  16. TheEgg

    TheEgg Member

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    Condition of the stock on a CMP is a HUGE varible. With a SG you will get a useable stock.

    Beyond that, almost anything is possible, all the way from a great, minty chunk of nice walnut, to something that might make a decent tomato stake. I have gotten both kinds, and some in between.

    Just no way to tell until you get it in. Nice thing is though that if you don't like the stock, lots of original and replacement stocks are available, mostly for a reasonable price.
     
  17. TheEgg

    TheEgg Member

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    Oops -- double tap.
     
  18. rero360

    rero360 Member

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    thanks for all the replies guys, I'm driving myself crazy waiting for it, hopefully my new belt and holster for my 1911 that'll be coming in a couple of weeks will tide me over until it gets here.
     
  19. mustanger98

    mustanger98 Member

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    Of course, the other option, whether you bought a woodless Dane RG or any other rifle, is to drop it into a synthetic such as a Ramline which don't require the stock hardware. The up-side to buying a rifle with a stock is you have the stock hardware- gives you the stuff to outfit a new wood stock- which costs just a little less than the difference between the woodless Dane RG and some of the others.

    http://www.odcmp.com/Services/Rifles/m1garand.htm

    Rack Grades:
    R001GK-WRAR* M1 Garand, Winchester $550
    R001SAR M1 Garand, Springfield Armory $350
    R004SAR* M1 Garand, Springfield Armory $350
    R002SARLW*** M1 Garand, Springfield Armory, Less Wood $295

    Field Grades:
    R001SAF M1 Garand, Springfield Armory - presently on backorder status Delivery in 90-120 days.....$395
    R001GK-SAF* M1 Garand, Springfield Armory $395
    R001GK-WRAF* M1 Garand, Winchester $600

    Service Grades:
    R001GK-WRAS* M1 Garand, Winchester SOLD OUT - not accepting orders - 1/24/06 $700
    R001IHC M1 Garand International Harvester SOLD OUT -not accepting orders - 1/24/06 $750
    R002WRAV** M1 Garand,Winchester, VAR Barrel SOLD OUT - not accepting orders - 1-26-06 $700
    R004SA* M1 Garand, Springfield Armory Delivery in 60-90 days......$500
     
  20. Dienekes

    Dienekes Member

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    I have a "few"; the first from back around 1985. Don't remember any being too bad on cleanup. I tend to use TSP (trisodium phosphate) but have also used oven cleaner, Castrol degreaser, plain soap and water. None have been like new, but all have been perfectly usable after some elbow grease. Worst I have had for cosmoline was a Yugo SKS--just drove to the car wash and spent about $5 with the pressure wand on "degrease". That got 90% plus of it off. Don't think you will have to get that extreme here.

    Have used the Minwax on Garands I want to keep as GI as possible. On the two that I use regularly I went for Tru-Oil; works well, looks good, great protection, "repairs" well, and if wanted can be dulled down for nonreflection with a quick rubdown with 000 steel wool.

    The old boiled linseed oil treatment is traditional but I can tell you from experience it doesn't stand rain and weathering well. Maybe the idea was to give the GI something to do after all the rocks were painted and the parking lot policed up.

    If winter stays long this year I may have to see about one of those "minus wood" rifles. Sure would like to build up a 7.62...
     
  21. Firehand

    Firehand Member

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    One thing I've noticed is that a lot of the old ones, once you clean it up, have some really pretty wood under all the surface crud. If it doesn't have arsenal markings you want to preserve, you can thoroughly degrease it, then scrape/sand it down, maybe steam out remaining dents, and then refinish it.
     
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