M1 stock question

[PCGS65]

I'm currently trying to decosmoline an M1 stock and handgaurd set. So far I've baked the handgaurds in the oven @ 150*F wrapped in paper towels with foil around it. I've done this for a few hours and some cosmo has come out. The problem is there's more in the handgaurd that doesn't seem to come out plus it's very dark and seems to have gotten darker during this process. I want to stain the stock/handgaurds eventually to that sweet looking light reddish color. However with the walnut being so dark it just wount turn out right.

Should I use denatured alcohol or hot soapy water to leech out more of the cosmo or haven't I "baked" it enough yet?

Any info is appreciated.

 

[jcwit]

Local do it yourself car wash is what I've always used for military stocks. Don't dry them out fast tho.

Instead of using an oven I've just used a car sitting in the sun.

Oh BTW I would use lacquer thinner rather than alcohol, works faster and dries faster.

 

[Badger Arms]

Denatured Alcohol. Don't soak it, just take some absorbant stuff like paper towels and rub the stock down with it. I use fine steel wool to get at grungy or built-up areas. Alcohol dilutes cosmoline and grease and soaks it into the paper towels. Wal-Mart sells gallon cans of Alcohol, don't use rubbing alcohol. Do it in a well-ventilated area.

 

[PCGS65]

JC yes the dashboard in the sun works well but here in N. Illinois that's not really an option yet. That's why I choose the oven. The stock barely fits diagonally.

BA I have denatured alcohol but wanted to leech out as much cosmo as possible before going that route. I just thought I might need to "bake it" longer. It's been raining like heck here lately and don't want to use the alcohol inside.

This reminds me I should take some before pics before it's too late.

 

[Badger Arms]

Baking the stock allows the oils to leech further into the stock. The alcohol evaporating on the surface of the stock draws the oils OUT of the stock. It's intuitive to me and I've done it a dozen or so times. I still get grease coming out of my stocks sometimes though so there might be a better way!

 

[PCGS65]

BA this is my 2nd stock that I've done. I did a russian nagant M44 last summer. I just hated the arsenal refinish job. However this M1 just came from the CMP and they're notorious for being loaded with cosmo and justifiably so as I'm sure your well aware of.

For now I think I'll attempt to bake out as much cosmo as possible(yes it make sense that it's being baked in also)but the process is removing cosmo. Then I'll use the denatured alcohol to see if I can get a uniform look before restaining.

I'll check back next weekend maybe with some pics if I have enough time to finish the stock.

 

[CZguy]

Denatured Alcohol. Don't soak it, just take some absorbant stuff like paper towels and rub the stock down with it. I use fine steel wool to get at grungy or built-up areas. Alcohol dilutes cosmoline and grease and soaks it into the paper towels. Wal-Mart sells gallon cans of Alcohol, don't use rubbing alcohol. Do it in a well-ventilated area.

What is the difference between rubbing and denatured alcohol? I thought they were the same thing.

 

[loadedround]

Guys: I've degreased many Springfields, Garands and a few SKS's from cosmoline and found the quickest way is an old dish pan, a paintbrush and several gallons of gasoline, plus a pair of heavvy rubber gloves. Work must be done out side to prevent fires from the gas fumes. Just brush the gasoline on, wait several minutes and just wipe the cosmoline off. Gasoline works both on wood stocks and the metal parts. Please be careful in protecting your skin and not inhaling the gase fumes. When finished degreasing, allow the parts to dry in the sun to evaporate any residual gasoline remaining. Bear in mind that all remaining items and the waste gasolin are considered Hazmat items and must be disposed of properly. Used denaturned alcohol is Hazmat material also.





ling fe "decosmolied d a cosmolized

 

[jcwit]

One more way toremove varnish/finish/oil/cosmoline ect from an old gunstock.

Taken from the NRA book "Gunsmithing guide-Upsated"
As a collector of military arms I foundit frustrating to deal with a rifle having fine metal but a dirty, oil-soaked stock. Many owners believe their only choice is to sand down the stock, sacrificing its original dimensions and markings, or else leave it as is.

I have found a method that will take off oil, varnish, and most other finishes without damaging the wood in any way.

First remove all metal furniture from the stock. Then spray "Easy off" oven cleaner over the wood. After 10 minutes wash it off with hot water and a fiber brush or rough towels. I have never had to use more than three applications on the oldest and greasiest wood.

After complete drying, a coat of stock oil will restore the look of new wood.

I've done the above method and it does work in removing the oils ect from the wood pores. Easy to use and you don't need to worry about the charactors in the white Haz-met suits

 

[thales]

What is the difference between rubbing and denatured alcohol? I thought they were the same thing.

Denatured alcohol is ethanol (grain alcohol, AKA booze) about 94 % with 5% water and denaturants (noxious toxins used to discourage consumption of the alcohol).

Rubbing alcohol is usually isopropanol 70% and water 30%.

 

[61chalk]

Excellent thread....I'm trying the easy off on a Garand...but will keep in mind the gas an alcohol threads.
I had been thinking of buying some kind of thinner or paint,stain remover.

 

[61chalk]

Just used PowerHouse Oven Cleaner...$1.50....put a coat on an 10 min. rubbed off with fine steel wool an put another coat on. Waited 1 hour an took steel wool again, an a bucket of water while wiping it down. Then took a t-shirt an wiped off, then a hair dryer.....WOW!!!!!!
Before wood was almost black, now it looks lighter than my new CMP stock....this stuff really works...jcwit you are the man, good job an input....you can have a cookie......ha.

 

[Riss]

TSP is good if you can find it. TSP substitute is what I get, from WallyWorld. Flood it on and then wash off. The rinse water will run brown for 1 or 2 rinses and short soaks. Rinse, let dry a dayor two and refinish.

 

[PCGS65]

Well guys here's what I've done so far. I baked the stock in the oven. Checking it every 20-30 minutes wiping the cosmo off with denatured alcohol each time to minimize the cosmo from seeping into the wood. This took about 3 afternoons and many beers. The finish didn't come off the stock with the denatured alcohol but the cosmo did. It had that nice reddish look when wet.
So in order to remove the finish so I could even out the dark toned dents/blemishes I bought minwaxes Antique furniture refinisher. At first I was reluctant because this product was $15/quart and I already had the denatured alcohol. Anyway the AFR worked great. One application and the finish was gone then I used Q-tips to clean out the dents ect for a even look. Next I proceded to steam out the dents with an iron and a wet cloth. Then I let it dry for a day.

I then used minwaxes red chestnut stain. I also bought red mohagony and cherry stain and tried all 3 on sample wood. The red chestnut gave the best look IMO so I stained the stock with that. It had the nice dark red look to it. But the next morning the stock turned dark brown after drying. I was disappointed. I was almost going to strip it again but could think why it would turn out any different if I did, so I didn't. Yesterday I applied the first coat of tung oil and the red color began to come back. So I'm hopefull it will continue to get better with each coat but I don't want a high gloss so 3 or so coats should do the trick.

I've stained many woods in my time,mostly pine though. I have some black walnut at home for testing purposes. However this wood turns dark with most any stain/oil. One time the towel rod came loose off the bathroom wall. The drywall was breaking apart. So I took a 1x4 piece of black walnut rubbed some BLO(boiled linseed oil)on it to give it some moisture resistance and it turned black but the wood grain looked fantastic. This doesn't happen with the "softer" wood that I have done.

I'll post pics of the gun stock when I'm done.

 

[CZguy]

I'll post pics of the gun stock when I'm done.

Some step by step photos would be helpful to many of us.

 

[Jmurman]

Here's what I did with my Garand from CMP.

I removed all metal and then placed into the dishwasher. Remove the top rack and set on pots and pan cycle. Take out after the wash/rinse and allow to air dry for a day or so. Works like a charm. This also raises alot of the dings without messing with any cartouches.

 

[PCGS65]

I removed all metal and then placed into the dishwasher. Remove the top rack and set on pots and pan cycle. Take out after the wash/rinse and allow to air dry for a day or so. Works like a charm. This also raises alot of the dings without messing with any cartouches.

I've read about the dish washer method. Many swear by it an it does seem to be the easiest but I just can't bring myself to do it. It seems too harsh and I've also heard about hand gaurds ect cracking sometimes.

Call me old fashioned but elbow grease seems to be more rewarding to me.

With the minwax antique furniture refinisher I just put some on a disposeable shop cloth and wiped the stock. Minimal effort. The directions said to pour some in a pan and scrub with 0000 steel wool. To me that's too messy and I used very little with the shop towel method. That quart will last for many stocks.

 

[jimmyraythomason]

I never use anything but odorless mineral spirits (aka, paint thinner). I fully immerse the wood parts. After a 24hr soak ,most of the cosmo will be desolved then I remove what is left with a stiff bristle nylon brush. Blow off with shop air and hang in front of a fan until completely dry. The wood will lighten in color somewhat. I have never been dissatisfied with the results.

 

[CZguy]

This thread is making me really look forward to my CMP service grade Garand's arrival. Hopefully this month.

 

[Jmurman]

I've read about the dish washer method. Many swear by it an it does seem to be the easiest but I just can't bring myself to do it. It seems too harsh and I've also heard about hand gaurds ect cracking sometimes.

Call me old fashioned but elbow grease seems to be more rewarding to me

Yeah I tried that first when I got mine, but the years and years of gunk and crap wouldn't budge with a harsh solution. The dishwasher trick worked perfectly and if I had to do it all over again, I'd do the same.

I do a lot of work on stocks for both pistol and rifle, so I am at home working with wood.