Sorry if this has been posted before but Question, new SOT 2 here and am working on a test full auto AR. Just ordered a M16 stripped lower with the pocket cut and all. Is all I need for the “full auto” aspect just a full auto sear, drill the 3rd hole, then just full auto lower parts kit. Then obviously I’ll fill out the forms, but on the building side am I missing anything? Thanks for any help.
M16 lower question
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MachIVshooter
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You need an M16 fire control group; hammer, trigger, disconnector, selector and auto sear, with pins and springs.
M16 bolt carrier if you don't already have it.
Probably an H2 or H3 buffer if its not a rifle buffer tube, cyclic rates get high and can cause malfunctions in shorter gas systems.
Adjustable gas block if youre gonna run suppressed.
Then, yes, the 3rd hole.
On filing, It's form 2 (singular) notice of (NFA) firearms manufactured. You'll do no others unless you transfer it F3.
M16 bolt carrier if you don't already have it.
Probably an H2 or H3 buffer if its not a rifle buffer tube, cyclic rates get high and can cause malfunctions in shorter gas systems.
Adjustable gas block if youre gonna run suppressed.
Then, yes, the 3rd hole.
On filing, It's form 2 (singular) notice of (NFA) firearms manufactured. You'll do no others unless you transfer it F3.
I appreciate ya!
Standard carbine buffer on a 10.5" barrel has worked without issue in my experience so might be worth a try. Matrix Arms seems to be the most economical for AR-15 lowers that has the pocket already set correctly. Resistance Arms is another brand and I was recently told Spikes is now but I'm pretty sure my Crusader lowers from Spikes from a few years ago did not have the pocket already good to go.
The New Frontier Armory 3rd hole jigs seem to be pretty good quality and last for several pieces.
Have fun!
The New Frontier Armory 3rd hole jigs seem to be pretty good quality and last for several pieces.
Have fun!
MachIVshooter
Member
The forward portion is the same, but the M16 maintains that width all the way to the rear, no thinner offset cut except at the very bottom where the selector detent is.
Correct.
When it comes to the form 2, the last form requests for a marking varience or a 6a form. If im not importing and im just using another manufacturer lower with their info still on it, and mine lasered as well. Do i just skip over this or do i still request a varience? Little confused on ATF wording in their directions.
MachIVshooter
Member
You don't need a variance, just have to put your required info on it. You can use the existing S/N and caliber markings (assuming it has the latter), just add the name on your FFL and city & state.
halfmoonclip
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Drifted over here for grits and shins. How are you folks making NEW select fire guns? Only experience with class III stuff has been 3 SBRs.
Those that are making new select fire guns hold a FFL and SOT. They can make them but they are dealer samples for sale to law enforcement, military, or other government agencies only.
I paid the big bucks for a pre 86...
AlexanderA
Member
They weren't "big bucks" if you actually bought them before 1986. The price rise is entirely artificial.
MachIVshooter
Member
You have to be a type 07 or type 10 FFL with class 2 SOT. There is no legal way to acquire a post-86 machine gun on form 4 transfer or build one on a form 1. Post-86 MGs are registered form 2 after manufacture and transferred F3 with a demo letter to other SOTs or form 5 to government agencies. Or exported to other governments, but that's a whole different subject.
halfmoonclip
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Mach IV', thnx, thot' it had to be something like that, but it was being discussed so casually, thot' perhaps something had changed.
Best,
Moon
Best,
Moon
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