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Making 1911 grips

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by GLOCK45GUY, Jun 26, 2008.

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  1. GLOCK45GUY

    GLOCK45GUY Member

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    I have cut out a pair of full size 1911 grips out of Oak. I'm not sure if I'm explaining this correctly but here it goes:

    What shaping method would be best to get the rounded radius going front to back of the grip?
     
  2. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

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    A disk sander in a hand drill will work if you don't have a belt sander.

    I do all my shaping with a Foredom grinder with disk and drum sanding attachments.

    Rounding 1911 grips can be done quite nicely on a 4" x 36" belt sander, but I have also done some nice ones with just a disk sander attachment & a drill.

    rcmodel
     
  3. GLOCK45GUY

    GLOCK45GUY Member

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    I have a 3" hand belt sander that I have made a fixture to hold it upside down.

    I was planning on using a double sided tape to attached it to a paint stick so I dont have to get my fingers near the belt while its running. This would also allow me to work the wood better, I would think.

    I would just like to see it as I'm
    sanding.

    I think I may try the sanding disc.
     
  4. BBBBill

    BBBBill Member

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    How about a piece of aluminum or steel 1"x 1/8"x long-enough-to-hold-on-to-each-end". Get it at Lowes, etc. Drill and tap for a couple grip screw bushings and screw the grip to it with some Allen head screws. I suggest Allen head just in in case you sand into the screw a bit. Might be more socket left to get it out.
     
  5. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

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    Ah heck!
    If you still have all your fingerprints left when you get through making a set of grips on a belt sander, you ain't going about it right! :neener:

    rcmodel
     
  6. Jim K

    Jim K Member

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    Quick tip. Start with a piece of wood about 6-8" long, do the grip on one end, making the top (curved) part, drilling the holes and checkering, using the extended part to hold the work. Then saw off the excess at the right angle.

    Jim
     
  7. gb6491

    gb6491 Member

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  8. Snow Dog

    Snow Dog Member

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  9. Sunray

    Sunray Member

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    What kind of oak? Aside from being heavy, red or white oak(I can never remember which one) splits as it dries.
     
  10. GLOCK45GUY

    GLOCK45GUY Member

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    I'm pretty sure it's white. A friend bought it at Lowes in the finish wood area.

    He thought it had a good grain pattern that would look good on my project gun (I made a set for a Taurus 92 out if Afican Bavinca that look real good, that's were he got the idea from).
     
  11. parrothead2581

    parrothead2581 Member

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    Snow Dog, those grips look great!

    What Dremel bit would any of you recommend for cutting the notch for an ambidextrous safety?
     
  12. GLOCK45GUY

    GLOCK45GUY Member

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    I used a Roto Zip with an 1/8th" all-purpose grinding type tip kinda like an end mill.

    I fixed the grip between two pieces scrap wood the same height so the base of the tool would not go deeper than needed,
     
  13. CWG

    CWG Member

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    Holding the grips while curving

    Hey Guys I was reading your post and decided to share this with you. Hope it helps. Heres an idea that I use. I cut a piece of 3/4 X 1-1/2 about 3 inches long, matter of fact I cut 2 of them. Then I use those double side sticky tabs that you buy at wal-mart to hang pictures and so forth on a sheetrock wall. I put 2 of them on each block and stick the fitted grip on the block. That way I can hold the block and the fingers never get near the belt. I can see every move with ease. The tabs are easy to remove, but one use is all they can be used.

    Here is a picture of the latest grips. These grips are made of AZ Desert Ironwood, I have checkered the grips in the 1/2 pattern. No I do not have an electric checkering tool, nor a CNC machine. All my work is done the old fashion way, by hand.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 30, 2008
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