DONT EVER MESS WITH HOMEBREWING PRIMING COMPOUNDS
The above is good advice ignore it at your own peril
Making my own caps
- Thread starter raa-7
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The above is good advice ignore it at your own peril
.180" on the rod and I drill the hole with a bit that's a #7 I got from my tap n drll set which is 1/4" . After you drill the hole, ream it out by using the rod until you can push a aluminum disk into it. Like I said in my lengthy post, it takes a little practice and don't give up on it, once you get good at making the caps you can make them pretty fast. I can make about 6 per min. if I want. 1. Punch out the disks. 2. cut with a small pair of scissors, like in the picture. 3. Center the disk over the hole and with the rod on it, use the palm of your hand to push the disc into the hole. Now , when the disk is formed to that hole,, before you take the rod out, give the rod a few taps with a small hammer (like picture) or you can use something else if you don't have a small hammer. This draws the "skirt" of the cap tightly around the rod. Then get the cap out with a tweezers. You have to open your tweezers wide and put one tip of the tweezer up against the side of the cap,,then GRAB with a little pressure and it should come right out. Everything will get easier and easier as you go.The hole.will produce caps better and better as you go. If you have any more questions just ask 
See the scrape marks from the tweezers ? You can also drill a smaller hole on the opposite side to pop the caps out also ! I don't know why the picture is rotated like that because it's not like that when I posted it.
Here's a few copper caps. I like these better,but they are a little softer. We'll see how good they work. I have my very own "Press A Cap" (what I'm calling it ) in the making ! It's made of steel and should be more precise so maybe I'll get it to form better quality caps ! I'll post it in the futre
See the scrape marks from the tweezers ? You can also drill a smaller hole on the opposite side to pop the caps out also ! I don't know why the picture is rotated like that because it's not like that when I posted it.
Here's a few copper caps. I like these better,but they are a little softer. We'll see how good they work. I have my very own "Press A Cap" (what I'm calling it ) in the making ! It's made of steel and should be more precise so maybe I'll get it to form better quality caps ! I'll post it in the futre elhombreconnonombre
Member
If you want to try filling these DIY caps with the strike anywhere Match primer, it is much easier to use an empty plastic pistol primer tray. Tale a piece of double sided tape and put it on the back of the plástic holder to adhere to your work surface. Use your eyedropper and put a drop or two of your primer slurry into the cup and let dry.
PS you might even try reloading spent cartidge primer cups the same way. Remove the anvil from the spent primer, hammer out the dent from the firing pin dent, reload the primer, and reinstall the anvil. As always, wear appropriate safety gear, and your mileage may vary.
PS you might even try reloading spent cartidge primer cups the same way. Remove the anvil from the spent primer, hammer out the dent from the firing pin dent, reload the primer, and reinstall the anvil. As always, wear appropriate safety gear, and your mileage may vary.
Big Al Mass
Member
I just got an idea while reading this. Make up a block that had 6 holes in it for 6 nipples of the gun you want to make caps for. This block goes on an arbor press of some kind. Positioned under the block is another block with 6 corresponding holes of the proper dimensions. You place 6 discs of suitable material (copper, beverage can metal) over each hole and lower the nipple block, and presto! 6 caps at once. If you are mechanically inclined enough, maybe some kind of machine could be made up that stamps the discs, cuts the notches, and forms them into the finished caps. I wish I was a tool and die maker.
What do you guys think?
What do you guys think?
.180" on the rod and I drill the hole with a bit that's a #7 I got from my tap n drll set which is 1/4" . After you drill the hole, ream it out by using the rod until you can push a aluminum disk into it. Like I said in my lengthy post, it takes a little practice and don't give up on it, once you get good at making the caps you can make them pretty fast. I can make about 6 per min. if I want. 1. Punch out the disks. 2. cut with a small pair of scissors, like in the picture. 3. Center the disk over the hole and with the rod on it, use the palm of your hand to push the disc into the hole. Now , when the disk is formed to that hole,, before you take the rod out, give the rod a few taps with a small hammer (like picture) or you can use something else if you don't have a small hammer. This draws the "skirt" of the cap tightly around the rod. Then get the cap out with a tweezers. You have to open your tweezers wide and put one tip of the tweezer up against the side of the cap,,then GRAB with a little pressure and it should come right out. Everything will get easier and easier as you go.The hole.will produce caps better and better as you go. If you have any more questions just askHere's a few copper caps. I like these better,but they are a little softer. We'll see how good they work. I have my very own "Press A Cap" (what I'm calling it ) in the making ! It's made of steel and should be more precise so maybe I'll get it to form better quality caps ! I'll post it in the futre
Cool you figured out the macro setting! that image looks much better
tpelle
Member
So if I understand this right, you cut four little radial slits in the aluminum disk so that, when you press the disk into the hardwood block, the slits allow the skirt that you are forming to overlap itself.
Actually this looks better than the caps from the Tap-O-Cap, as I would be concerned about the "pleats" in the skirt allowing gasses from the adjacent fired cap from migrating up the pleat and firing the next cap "out of battery". The overlap would seem to help prevent this.
I like this idea. I predict a trip to the hardware store and the Dollar store in my future.
Actually this looks better than the caps from the Tap-O-Cap, as I would be concerned about the "pleats" in the skirt allowing gasses from the adjacent fired cap from migrating up the pleat and firing the next cap "out of battery". The overlap would seem to help prevent this.
I like this idea. I predict a trip to the hardware store and the Dollar store in my future.
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Kudos!
I wanted to make a Tap-O-Cap, but don't have time. I made a jig for hammering out brass patchboxes and am currently making a tool to separate an action from stock that has just been glass bedded. After that it's a jig for reassembling a trigger group.
I wanted to make a Tap-O-Cap, but don't have time. I made a jig for hammering out brass patchboxes and am currently making a tool to separate an action from stock that has just been glass bedded. After that it's a jig for reassembling a trigger group.
elhombreconnonombre
Member
Further thoughts on this great idea: Take a piece of steel, machine a shallow circular área the size of the cut out disk. Make a tool with this same diameter with 4 cutting teeth.On the same piece of steel drill your cap sized hole with another smaller hole thru the steel plate and machine a shallow circular área like you did with the other One. Put your disk in the first "jig" depression and use a hammer and your cutter tool to accurately make the 4 cuts in the disc. Pop it out and place the cut Disk into the second "jig" depression/hole to make the cup
As I write and think further about this you could probably do this with a single machined depression and hole, with the cutter actually center drilled for the cap forming punch. Make the four cuts first with the cutter tool then insert your punch through the center of the cutter tool. After you punched out a bunch of caps, out then in in in your empty pistol primer carrier tray, drop in your DIY primer slurry and let dry. If you are worried abut correct fit or errant sparks escaping through overlap of the 4 "petals" of the cap use a small piece of 1/4" od x .170"id aquarium tubing to secure the cap and "seal" it. Such a device would ensure reproducible and accurate results.
As I write and think further about this you could probably do this with a single machined depression and hole, with the cutter actually center drilled for the cap forming punch. Make the four cuts first with the cutter tool then insert your punch through the center of the cutter tool. After you punched out a bunch of caps, out then in in in your empty pistol primer carrier tray, drop in your DIY primer slurry and let dry. If you are worried abut correct fit or errant sparks escaping through overlap of the 4 "petals" of the cap use a small piece of 1/4" od x .170"id aquarium tubing to secure the cap and "seal" it. Such a device would ensure reproducible and accurate results.
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I've tried the little pieces of tubing, cut to the length of the cap and it works good and with the caps I make there's no gases escaping that I can really detect being that I get nearly 100% ignition.
MCgunner
Member
Very interesting, thanks. Time to google.
MCgunner
Member
After doing some google research, I came to the same conclusion.
It sounds like your time is well spent doing what you enjoy also. And the time goes by soo fast when we're doing things we like. I want to make so many things for BP shooting including rifles, which I would like to do, soon after I move, and I really don't want to start any serious projects like that until I do . Your projects sound pretty interesting. Let us know how they come out
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