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Metal finishing question

Discussion in 'Rifle Country' started by Mtn395, Jun 4, 2009.

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  1. Mtn395

    Mtn395 Member

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    My friend just got a 91/30, the finish is pretty much gone, he wants to either parkerize it, paint it (rustoleum, ect) or use Gun-Kote, painting and parkerizing sounds easier and probably cheaper. Which one should he use?
     
  2. Uncle Mike

    Uncle Mike Member

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    Parkerizing in some opinions is a much better finish than a paint type finish, however I would not go as far as saying that the Parkerizing process is 'easier' than the other processes you mentioned.

    There are two types of paint cured finish, air dry and heat cure.
    The latter being more durable than the first but requireing the appropiate ovens in wich one can place the rifle to bake the finish.

    The easiest of the bunch to preform would be a the self applied, air dry type paint finish.
    While Krylon, Rust Oleum and the likes are the lesser expensive finishes, a better quality product will provide you with better service over the long haul.

    It might be worth your while to look into finsihes such as Brownell's Backing Lacquer, Teflon Moly Finish, Gun Coat and Aluma Hyde.

    There are also other manufacturers such as KG Coat, Cera Coat and Dura Coat.

    The best of the above mentioned, Ceracoat and KG Coat.(also Brownell's Gun Coat, which is the same as KG Coat) Ceracoat being the toughest.

    I might get a couple cans of Aluma Hyde and jump on it!:D
     
  3. NCsmitty

    NCsmitty Member

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    I would sand blast the blued area and parkerize to weather proof, then coat it with one of the epoxy paints.
    I use Duracoat and have been very satisfied with it's durability. It gets very hard over time and it's much harder to mark than a blued unit.
    You can use a simple air brush sprayer with light coats to do the job.


    NCsmitty
     
  4. Jim Watson

    Jim Watson Member

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    I wonder if even a MN has enough clearances to run when painted with a hardware store product.

    If you want a real gun finish, you must be able to sandblast and degrease for one of the coatings, and Parkerizing requires boiling the whole gun in phosphate solution. Do you and he have the equipment?
     
  5. Mtn395

    Mtn395 Member

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    What is the easiest spray-on finish that don't need to be sand blasted?
     
  6. Uncle Mike

    Uncle Mike Member

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    The sandblasting part of the equation is to remove any of the loose or failing finish that would cause your newly applied finish to come off as the old finish comes off.

    You can't put new paint over old stuff that is going to come loose, it will cause the new finish to come off with it. :banghead:

    Also, most paints require the surface in which your applying the new paint to, to be prepared either by chemical preparation or abrasive preparation.

    Grab yourself some Scotch-Brite pads, sold at Sams, Home Depot, Ace Hardware, ect.. and get to work on scrubbing that old finish down to a smooth, evenly prepared finish then degrease with a non-petroleum based cleaner, prepare the surface according to the paint manufacturers recommendations and.... paint away.
     
  7. Mtn395

    Mtn395 Member

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    He's going to use Aluma-Hyde 2, he seems to like it the best
     
  8. Uncle Mike

    Uncle Mike Member

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    Aluma-Hyde is a darn good paint....we use a lot of it.:D
     
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