Metal plate shooting, good idea or not?

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91/30 metal plates

My son and I go to a site where we have a 3/4 steel plate hanging at the end of the range... 120 yards and up hill. I can attest to the fact that on impact there is some back scatter, but the bullet penetrates leaving a half inch hole. I use those Shoot'n'see targets, and when pasted to the steel plate you see a hole the size of a 50 cent piece, so the hot spew that reflects is coming out in all directions but I doubt its going more than 10 or 20 yards....

KKKKFL
 
I'm a believer that the farther away you are the less chance you're hit, but I'm not betting that it can never come back the same distance it went in. I've not shot at a steel plate, but used to shoot 22's at targets hung between steel t-posts...until a 22 shard from a Ruger mark III came back 15 yards and cut my forehead. I now hang targets from wooden posts to eliminate the chance it'll bounce.
 
I decided to heed advice and get some decent steel. I've rigged up my own metal plate target, .63"(16mm) Bisalloy 400 steel 9.8"x9.8" (250mmx250mm). Wooden frame was easy to knock up out of some scrap wood and folds flat if I want to chuck it in the car although I need to be careful not to shoot it to shreds. The wire is good as the plate can be adjusted for height or detached for transport fairly quickly. All I have to do now is shoot it!

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Paper is fine and dandy but I hate going down and seeing if I hit it.
With metal ya know when it is a hit. Big plus when all you use is iron sights.
Especially at ranges over 100 yds.

My 1st attempt at a frame. While it worked well it didn't hold up well against inexperienced shooters.
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This frame solved that problem, only downside is it doesn't fit in the trunk of my car. But it does make a handy container for other peoples trash that I always seem to clean up.

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That is some supremely busted up steel plate powermad! I thought I'd give my bisalloy plate a work over to test its durability. I can always flip it around for a fresh face.

203gr 7.62x54r Barnaul SP @ 100meters and 200 meters. It's not to hard to figure out which indents are from the 100 meters range. 100 meters is very close and really only an experiment. [edit] the smaller, non indent, splash marks are from a .22

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The last two posts show dangerous steel, crap is going to come back, every pock is like a little satellite dish reflector. The through holes can send jacket back too as the bullet penetrates. I've shot AR-500 poppers at 25 yards with an AR, others there had .308 that didn't touch them either. The bisalloy is doing okay but is still pocking, probably last forever with a handgun.
 
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I'd never shoot closer than 100 meters with the 7.62x54r and most commonly at 200 meters and further. Fragmentation will come back a bit if it hits one of the indentations but I'll be well away.

The splashes without indent are from a .22. The plate itself was cheap, only about $24 USD which I got at cost. The digger bucket factory I sourced the plate from also have Bisalloy 500 which is apparently so hard they cannot drill it. The plate I've got is bisalloy 400.
 
Ahhh, this whole 7.62x54r/steel plate discussion brings back a not so fond memory.

Once upon a time, shortly after I purchased my first mil-surp (91-30 ex-sniper) I was shooting a suspended steel plate that came from a pile of railroad ties. Then after about 20 uneventful rounds, I shoot and hear 'zing' over my head and feel something zip through my hair. I reached up and discovered that a patch of my hair had been clipped by a bullet that seemingly defied the laws of physics. Pretty scary stuff!

I still shoot steel, but it's all heavy duty stuff made out of brushog blades. Even 30-06 FMJ doesn't make a scratch. I think the problem I encountered before was due to the aforementioned 'cratering.' Don's shoot soft steel!

Ben
 
Incidentally, the railroad steel I was shooting looks almost identical to Powermad's steel plate..........
 
I'd feel most comfortable shooting Hardened steel plate that is angled about 10-15 degrees towards the ground.

Also, distance is your friend.

I have seen jackets pop right off of the bullets and come straight back at people who were shooting handguns at non-angled plates - makes me kinda nervous!
 
Box of truth site did some deflection testing with wood dowels.

.223 deflected quite a bit, 12ga slug and 500gr 45-70 GC lead not so much.
 
I haven't read what's been said, but I will give the only info I need to know and provide: Shooting steel plate at close range with rifles is BAD NEWS.

Details of my incident:

270 Win, 150gr SP, 50 yards standing, 5/8" steel plate target. Around 5th shot I get whacked in the side, hard. I thought that I was hit through thick clothing only and just felt the shock of the hit. I was wrong when I saw the hole in my coat, sweatshirt, T-shirt underneath, and a hole through the thick Carhardt overalls I was wearing. The fully mushroomed bullet hit me sideways, penetrated all those layers, and then penetrated me about 1" in. Right below the ribs on the left. You could see the shape of the hole through the clothing, completely mushroomed and sideways impact. Nylon from the coat was silkscreened onto my shirt underneath. The bullet had to be about 400 degrees when it hit me from hitting the plate. It came out and burned me everywhere inside my shirt bouncing around after it penetrated and popped back out. It was numb and stinging at the same time, and I had no idea I was being burned like crazy as it was occurring. I had a huge bruise about 6" diameter.

Had that struck my head, I do not know what the outcome would have been.
 
grantman, unless the wire is very, very tough, it will probably break quite soon. if you want to use something other than chain, stainless steel cable (multi stranded) would be a better choice. or reinforced rubber (like as used in grocery store conveyor belts) belting would also be a good choice. if possible, i would run a cable to the bottom of the target so you can keep a 15 degree or so angle on the plate so the bullets ricochet DOWNWARD. have fun, be safe!
 
good idea about the steel cable moose.

I would definitely have angled the plate but I was shooting from quite an elevated position which created somewhat of an angle. I've got the bottom of the plate drilled especially to pass a cable or wire through to create the angle in future and definitely for FMJ!
 
It is fine if you have 2 things in order.
First, the steel needs to be at least A400 or harder so it does not pocket. Pocketed steel is more dangerous than a flat surface. Don't bother shooting rifles at mild steel... it will cut through like nothing.
Second, I follow these range minimums: 25 yards for pistols, and 50 yards for rifles (100 yards is even better). For a 54r, I might go 200 yards.
Been shooting steel for a few years at these specs with no issues.
Remember to hit the steel at as close to a 90 degree angle as possible. Also, polycarbonate eye wear is a must... no plain old sunglasses.
 
Here are my steel plates. Steel is AR500.

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I knew a guy who caught a piece of 5.56 in his chest after shooting a steel plate at about 50 yards. It didn't penetrate deep but it looked painful. I would just say no all together, but putting it out at 400 yards sounds reasonably safe as far as shooting guns goes.
 
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