Quantcast

Modifying Windage Adjustment On Bald Eagle Rest

Discussion in 'Long Gun Accessories and Optics' started by otisrush, Oct 21, 2018.

  1. otisrush

    otisrush Member

    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2010
    Messages:
    704
    This feels like a long shot (bwahahaha - aren't I funny :)) but......

    I have a Bald Eagle front rest - shown below. During the process of researching compatible bags for this rest (I need to replace mine) I discovered that a number of folks are unhappy with the cable arrangement for windage adjustment. It is "grabby" and results in kind of a jumpy adjustment when it's used. So people have removed this cable and attached the adjustment knob directly to the threaded rod that goes into the carrier, so adjustments are made directly to the rod...resulting in much smoother operation.

    By chance has anyone here gone through this modification? One of the first steps appears to be removing a set screw on the adjustment knob....and as of now I can't get it loosened. Some Kroil is soaking into it as we speak.

    But in general, I'd be interested in hearing experiences (and any advice) from anyone who has done this.

    Thx.

    OR
    snRZovf.jpg
     
  2. Varminterror

    Varminterror Member

    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2016
    Messages:
    5,965
    RussellC and Skylerbone like this.
  3. Walkalong

    Walkalong Moderator

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2006
    Messages:
    57,784
    Location:
    Alabama
  4. otisrush

    otisrush Member

    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2010
    Messages:
    704
    Although I'm not a rookie, I made a rookie mistake: Not doing a search of the forum before posting the question.

    Thanks for the pics.

    OR
     
  5. Skylerbone

    Skylerbone Member

    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2010
    Messages:
    4,548
    Location:
    Hawkeye East
    “I cut off the cable, then drilled out the tapped hole in the silver handle with a 5/16 bit. Then I took the adjustment screw, cut the cable off, and turned the crimped part to about .310 on the little lathe I have, ground a small flat for the set screw and put it in the silver handle. You could probably do this with a drill press and a file.”

    If I’m understanding the above correctly (lifted from the other thread by Walkalong), both the knob and screw must be modified to allow the knob to slide onto the screw before being locked down with the set-screw?

    That entails drilling out the portion the screw slides into, which I had assumed earlier to be threaded, then turning down or filing down the bolt to a smaller diameter to fit the ferrule of the knob? And the only remaining issue to keep it “righty friendly” is drilling the spring capture holes on the opposite side?
     
  6. otisrush

    otisrush Member

    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2010
    Messages:
    704
    In another forum someone pointed out that the threads required for the inside of the adjustment knob (5/16-18) and the threads required on the other end that go into the platform where the front bag goes (5/16-24) are the same specs as some carburetor mounting studs. I headed over to Advantage Auto parts and got one (specs are something like 5/16-18 1/2" and 5/16-24 1.5"). It works GREAT. So given that works, I didn't have to hack apart the cable. Which means I can return the rest to its original configuration if I ever want to.

    The platform carrying the bag does get spun 180 degrees. No other mods need to be done. You do lose use of the front stop. You can see (but just barely) in the 2nd photo the hole where the rod for the front stop was.

    Before and after pics.

    MQz0E9A.png

    GiTgUzx.png
     
    Walkalong and Skylerbone like this.
  7. Skylerbone

    Skylerbone Member

    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2010
    Messages:
    4,548
    Location:
    Hawkeye East
    This thread is really turning into a goldmine! Any chance someone has added a Sinclair Speed Screw???
     
  8. otisrush

    otisrush Member

    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2010
    Messages:
    704
    There's another method I was going to pursue if I couldn't find the carb stud I ended up going with.

    According to my calipers (I don't recall the exact dimensions) the cable is a couple hundredths smaller than the inside diameter of the adjustment knob that is threaded. I seriously contemplated taking a hacksaw to the cable, leaving 3/4"-1" of cable attached to the crimped metal piece that holds the bolt that goes into the windage carrier.

    I figured if I pushed the adjustment knob all the way up against the crimped piece and cinched it with the set screw it would be reasonably solid. I don't know, however, if the set screw could exert enough pressure on the cable.....I don't know if there are strands the set screw can separate/penetrate which would make it less effective.

    I think it's another, non-machining way to get the job done if one wants to remove the cable.

    OR
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2018
  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice