More than I expected?

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by BillTell, Dec 1, 2021.

  1. BillTell

    BillTell Member

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    So I got the two guns I bid on in an auction today. A Remington 572 Fieldmaster in Teal Wing Blue, and a Savage 99 that was REALLY rusted up. I posted photos of both in the Research section under the thread, Think I may have scored.
    I completely took apart the Savage, and while yes, it's rusty, I think it's highly salvageable. I just don't want to put more into it than what buying a good 99 would cost me. I can strip it down, remove the rust, refinish the stock and put it back together, but I wanted to get it hot blued by a professional. I'm looking now, and seeing like a $400-$900 price tag on blueing. Is this correct? Because if it is, I may just have to sell the parts. It just wouldn't be worth it for me.
    My only other option is to try and clean up the rust without stripping the blueing off, and hoping it all goes bang correctly. But you can see by the photos, that's almost impossible. Has anyone paid to have hot dip blueing done recently? I'd love to know what the ball park is on that. Last time I had something like that done was in the 80's for like $60-$75. I'll add a few photos here so you can see what I'm dealing with.
     
  2. BillTell

    BillTell Member

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    1.JPG 5.JPG 18.JPG 4.JPG
     
  3. BBBBill

    BBBBill Member

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    Prices have gone up. Your cost is going to depend on exactly what you are trying to accomplish. If you want it to look new or at least semi new the damage shown is going to take many hours of tedious work to remove before bluing is possible. Labor costs $$$. If you just want to stop any further damage, then bead blast and dip will be much less costly. Unless it is a particularly rare example I would probably blast, Parkerize, and Cerakote.
     
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  4. troy fairweather

    troy fairweather Member

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    Rust blue it at home
     
  5. dh1633pm
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    dh1633pm Contributing Member

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    I would do the same. Bead blast and then paint it with Alumihyde or something like it. It may never be a show piece, but could become a favorite easily.
     
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  6. Skylerbone

    Skylerbone Member

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    I would rust blue as well. If not, I’d start with some 400 or 600 grit (can’t tell from pics how rough it is) to strip the finish as gently as possible down to bare metal then Oxpho Blue the whole thing. @Chuck R just found a Cerakote option that looks like traditional bluing if you’re inclined to spend the money but it sounds like this is a sympathetic resto which has me thinking inexpensive.
     
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  7. BillTell

    BillTell Member

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    Since I wrote all that, I've been researching how to revitalize an old Soldier. I've been posting stuff on the other thread of mine, as well, but this has evolved into a restoration project for me. My first, in fact, and I will start with the 99. (I'll do my Rem. 572 when I'm done with this) I will post a few more before photos. 2.JPG 7.JPG 8.JPG 16.JPG 10.JPG 32.JPG 27.JPG
     
  8. BillTell

    BillTell Member

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    So, as stated previously, I've taken the gun COMPLETELY apart. I've been happily surprised by how well made these were. While cleaning and keeping the originals, I've been able to obtain some new springs from Numrich. The first and easiest thing to clean was the Cartridge Carrier. 12 A (2).JPG 12 A (3).JPG
     
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  9. BillTell

    BillTell Member

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    12 A (4).JPG 12 A (6).JPG The cleaned up components with the old spring on top, and the new below.
     
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  10. BillTell

    BillTell Member

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    12 A (5).JPG 12 A (7).JPG 12 A (8).JPG I originally thought everything would have to be stripped to bare metal and re-blued, however using only Hoppe's and nylon brush, sometimes brass brush, the parts are cleaning up great, I think. Yes, there's going to be pitting, but I'm good with that. It's keeping the gun original, and I'm just trying to get it to go Bang! once again. This is the original spring cleaned up.
     
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  11. BillTell

    BillTell Member

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    Sorry, when editing, the words got all out of sync with the photos... story of my life...
     
  12. BillTell

    BillTell Member

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    The Cartridge Carrier all put together with the new spring inside. 12 B.JPG 12 C.JPG 12 D.JPG 12 E.JPG 12 F.JPG
     
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  13. BillTell

    BillTell Member

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    The stock was in remarkably good shape considering all things. I have stripped it down. 37.JPG 38.JPG 39.JPG 40.JPG
     
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  14. BillTell

    BillTell Member

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    Other than the one small chip by where the grip cap goes, it's not even dented. I had been wondering whether or not I was going to have to buy my wife a new iron when I steamed out the dents, but there were none! The worst part is the grease stains that go deep where the stock attaches to the receiver, and the butt plate. I've sanded out some, but I can live with what's left. It's part of her story. Again, I'm not striving for perfection, I'm looking to salvage and revive a noble friend.
     
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  15. BillTell

    BillTell Member

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    After a lot of consultation with Larry Potterfield, I've decided on doing MY version of a sanded in finish. (There's so many opinions on finishing a stock on the internet, I decided that rather than picking one, I'll just add my own). I'm starting with a 2:1 mix of Odorless Mineral Spirits to True Oil. I'm sanding that in lightly, starting with 320 grit, letting it dry overnight, and doing that 3X.
     
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  16. BillTell

    BillTell Member

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    I found my wife's Ultrasonic Jewelry cleaner holds a Peanut Butter jar and a Jelly jar perfectly! It really cleans the parts with Hoppe's. 41.JPG
     
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  17. CoalCrackerAl

    CoalCrackerAl Member

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    It's coming along nice. Here is my last rescue. A Winchester 60. I cold blued it. With the Burchwood Casey system. I didnt take progress pic though.
    DSCF8346.JPG .
     
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  18. BillTell

    BillTell Member

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    Looks beautiful. I thought about re-bluing, but I'm gonna see how everything just shakes out in the Hoppe's. The 99 won't be meant to be a "Pretty" gun. It's obviously got a checkered past...like me. I'm hoping to just get a shooter. I think at this point, unless I really have to, the most I'll do to it will be to have it re-crowned. If I need to...
     
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  19. 22250Rem

    22250Rem Member

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    This is a fascinating thread for sure; best of luck with it and keep the updates coming.
     
  20. BillTell

    BillTell Member

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    The butt stock after 3X with the 320 grit and Tru Oil/Spirits mix. Now I'll start 400 grit and just Tru Oil.
    42.JPG 43.JPG
     
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  21. BillTell

    BillTell Member

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    So my first li'l "snag". I re-installed some hardware. The sling stud, butt plate, and grip cap. I was going to start with the 400 grit, but the butt plate is slightly oversized, (which I'm not going to do anything about), but there's a slight gap on one side of the grip cap, where there's also a tiny chip missing. I'm going to have to take a step back, consult Larry Potterfield again, and try to make this look a bit better.
     
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  22. BillTell

    BillTell Member

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    44.JPG 45.JPG 46.JPG 47.JPG
     
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  23. BillTell

    BillTell Member

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    I took some parts that looked ready from the Hoppe's, and was very happy with the way they turned out. 50.JPG
     
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  24. BillTell

    BillTell Member

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    So I took photos and uploaded them. 51.JPG
     
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  25. BillTell

    BillTell Member

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    Only then did I see the rust left on a couple pieces that my aging eyes didn't catch. But I did see that a bit of color case hardening on the trigger spring is still there. 52.JPG
     
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