Mossberg 590 500 bolt dissassembly,How to?

Discussion in 'Shotguns' started by Wanta B, Apr 7, 2009.

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  1. Wanta B

    Wanta B Member

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    Hey all,

    Hoping someone here canhelp me with this...

    So my new 590 has a bit of a sicky bolt lock and I am wanting to take it apart to polish up the sides and pin hole on the bolt(not the bolt lock)(see RandKL's pin mod. further down in reply #4).I have done a bit of searching and hear rumor that the pin is larger in the middle so it does not fal out...is this true? Has anyone hear done this? If so how?

    Thanks
    Wanta B
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2009
  2. wnycollector

    wnycollector Member

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  3. Wanta B

    Wanta B Member

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    I agree but it does not cover bolt disassembly,only field stripping.I am looking for info on stripping the bolt specificaly.Thank you for the input tho',I do appreciate it.(Video is great for getting to the bolt assembly.)
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2009
  4. RandKL

    RandKL member

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    They're a tight fit, but common steel punches will pop them right out with no probs. Don't use brass ones....they'll just ruin them.

    When I action tune a Mossy 500 or a Mav 88, I remove the firing pin first off (tiny pin at the back) and then drift out the bolt lock pin and remove that. Don't bother taking out the extractors if you haven't broken one. There's just no need unless you're going to jewel the bolt.

    With the bolt lock out, use a good, FLAT 320-400 grit diamond or stone to polish both sides of the lock....if you use paper, lay it flat on a sheet of window glass or old mirror and move the bolt lock in circles. I end up with a 1200 grit ceramic stone and lay the bolt lock down on it flat. The sides get mirror-polished that way. The only other parts on the bolt lock that matter are the front of the lock itself....just stone it or polish it down to 600 or so....and the top of the lock....same thing.

    Mount the bolt lock pin in your power drill and use some 400 or better paper to polish the end 1/4" of both ends. Leave the center plain.

    The firing pin, do the same as the bolt lock pin. Mount it in your drill and polish it to at least 400 grit. I go to 1200. *Don't* sand it or stone it to the point that it's thinned! Just polish it. The firing pin slot the same way. Use a tiny bit of ScotchBrite on a mandrel to polish the insides of the bolt firing pin slot.

    When you reassemble the bolt lock/bolt, use a strip of aluminum soda can on both sides of the bolt lock as shim material to keep the bolt lock centered in place while you drive the lock pin back in. With it centered, be CAREFUL pulling the shim material out! It's sharper than a mother!

    Properly done, the bolt lock will pop up and down smoothly and crisply as you thumb it up and down.

    Not going to bother writing the rest of the parts unless someone really needs them. Have to head out in just a few mins and lunch is waiting.

    Be safe!

    richard
     
  5. KevinAbbeyTech

    KevinAbbeyTech Member

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    I wish I could show you, this is not really something that is easily explained to someone who has never seen it done before.
     
  6. Wanta B

    Wanta B Member

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    OUTSTANDING!!!!

    Thank you VERY much...I was being cautious with the puch and hammer,did not want to mess it up.For me everything that you explained makes perfect sence.I do agree that pictures would be great for tho's of us not very familiar with these parts or that have not done similar projects.

    Again thank you,that puts my mind at ease...now off to it I go.
     
  7. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

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    The secret to driving tight pins out is to use a backer block of something that keeps the punch impact from moving the part.

    I use a steel bench block, or small anvil I have drilled for various size pins.

    Holding it on your leg and pounding on it won't often work.

    rc
     
  8. Wanta B

    Wanta B Member

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    Good point on the backing block.
     
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