They're a tight fit, but common steel punches will pop them right out with no probs. Don't use brass ones....they'll just ruin them.
When I action tune a Mossy 500 or a Mav 88, I remove the firing pin first off (tiny pin at the back) and then drift out the bolt lock pin and remove that. Don't bother taking out the extractors if you haven't broken one. There's just no need unless you're going to jewel the bolt.
With the bolt lock out, use a good, FLAT 320-400 grit diamond or stone to polish both sides of the lock....if you use paper, lay it flat on a sheet of window glass or old mirror and move the bolt lock in circles. I end up with a 1200 grit ceramic stone and lay the bolt lock down on it flat. The sides get mirror-polished that way. The only other parts on the bolt lock that matter are the front of the lock itself....just stone it or polish it down to 600 or so....and the top of the lock....same thing.
Mount the bolt lock pin in your power drill and use some 400 or better paper to polish the end 1/4" of both ends. Leave the center plain.
The firing pin, do the same as the bolt lock pin. Mount it in your drill and polish it to at least 400 grit. I go to 1200. *Don't* sand it or stone it to the point that it's thinned! Just polish it. The firing pin slot the same way. Use a tiny bit of ScotchBrite on a mandrel to polish the insides of the bolt firing pin slot.
When you reassemble the bolt lock/bolt, use a strip of aluminum soda can on both sides of the bolt lock as shim material to keep the bolt lock centered in place while you drive the lock pin back in. With it centered, be CAREFUL pulling the shim material out! It's sharper than a mother!
Properly done, the bolt lock will pop up and down smoothly and crisply as you thumb it up and down.
Not going to bother writing the rest of the parts unless someone really needs them. Have to head out in just a few mins and lunch is waiting.
Be safe!
richard
