Most durable matte black spray paint?

Discussion in 'General Gun Discussions' started by KarateHottie93, Jan 24, 2022.

  1. KarateHottie93

    KarateHottie93 Member

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    So I've been messing around with my S&W TRR8 a lot lately...just trying to figure out what setup works best for me. The other day I had the idea to take the top rail off for the first time and go try out the brass bead sight. What would soon follow, I'm just gonna blame entirely on whoever owned the firearm previously.

    As it would turn out, said previous owner put red Loctite on the top rail screws, and also torqued them wayyy too tight. I bought it from a pawnshop and have no ties to the person so I found all of this out the hard way. Three of the screws came out fine. It took a lot of effort and some heat but they came out. The second screw though...my first hex bit snapped off inside of it. Fortunately, I was able to get the piece out. I then sprayed penetrating oil down in there and let it sit for an hour. I went back, added a little heat, and tried again. Same thing happened. These were really high quality hex bits too. This time though...the broken off hex bit wasn't coming out. I had lost all way to apply any level of torque.

    I had four options. 1: Send back to S&W, wait forever, and pay for repairs as I'm not the original owner. 2: Find a competent gunsmith and pay an absolute fortune. 3: Drill into the screw myself and risk destroying the Scandium barrel shroud. 4: Cut a flathead into the screw, sacrifice the replaceable rail a little, and pray I can at least get torque on it after said and done.

    I went with the last option. I cut a flathead into the screw will my Dremel. It wasn't gonna budge. I used more penetrating oil and applied more heat. Still nothing. All it was doing was stripping my makeshift flathead, and I was running out of surface area with every move. Then I took the engraving tool and cut it into a Phillips head. Still nothing. By that point, I had already scuffed up the rail a bit so I decided to just grind the head off. At least then I'd be able to pull the rail off over it and have something to grab at with vice grips. As I was grinding away, I noticed how clean my makeshift flathead from earlier was starting to look. Plus I was hoping that the vibrations from the rotary grinder could have broken it loose a bit, but I knew it was a long shot.

    Feeling lucky, I stuck my flathead bit in a really nice pair of Milwaukee vice grips, applied as much pressure as I possibly could, and turned like you wouldn't believe. I heard the loudest pop of my life. I Immediately yelled GD because I was positive the screw had just snapped off down in the gun. I went to lift the rail off and it was still stuck on there. At that point, I was happier than I've ever been in my entire life because I realized the screw had broken loose.

    The firearm it's self took no damage whatsoever. The rail most certainly did though, as you can see. I also included a picture of the screw after everything. I have a new rail on backorder with S&W so I'm just gonna refinish this one in the meantime. Sorry to post a novel just to ask one simple question. Is there a durable spray paint anyone can recommend? Just need it to hold up until my new rail comes.

    Also, I'm aware I possibly could have avoided this with a bit more patience from the start. I'm happy with the result though. The last picture is of it right now with the plugs in. That little tiny chip about half an inch from the sight was there when I got it lol. He was probably trying to rack the cylinder with the old sight on belt technique and it slipped.

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    Last edited: Jan 24, 2022
  2. JeeperCreeper

    JeeperCreeper Member

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    If it's just temporary, any spray paint will do.

    But for cheap stuff, I found the engine enamel with ceramic is pretty darn good. I used it for a beater shotgun. Just seems to be a little more smooth and scratch resistant than the usual rattle can.

    Any auto parts store should have it.

    Obviously there's expensive gun spray, but again, for under $5 a can, the engine enamel is decent
     
  3. Speedo66

    Speedo66 Member

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    SEM trim black, it will even stick to polished stainless steel.

    You may have to go to an automotive paint retailer to find it.
     
  4. Ethan Verity

    Ethan Verity Member

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    Rust-Oleum High Performance Enamel is great stuff!
     
  5. bannockburn

    bannockburn Member

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    I have had good results with Krylon High Heat spray paint in matte black.
     
  6. Speedo66

    Speedo66 Member

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    Even holds up to BBQ's and motorcycle header pipes.
     
  7. doubleh

    doubleh Member

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    I third the Krylon. It is tough stuff in any color.
     
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  8. bannockburn

    bannockburn Member

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    Yeah the Krylon actually held up better and longer than the factory paint job did!
     
  9. KarateHottie93

    KarateHottie93 Member

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    Oh wow I'll look for some Krylon up on my way home from work tonight. Sounds perfect.
     
  10. Speedo66

    Speedo66 Member

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    Not sure, but may need heat to cure the paint...
     
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  11. CoalCrackerAl

    CoalCrackerAl Member

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    I touched up a barrel for a AR with the BBQ grill paint. It's still holding up. I did this for my buddy a few years back.
     
  12. KarateHottie93

    KarateHottie93 Member

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    Sounds good to me. I appreciate it. About 30 minutes on 250 or something like along those lines?
     
  13. Walkalong

    Walkalong Moderator Staff Member

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    Yep
     
  14. daniel craig

    daniel craig Member

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    That stuff that they designed for like motorcycle mufflers and stuff it's got like ceramic and heat resistant stuff in it I don't know what it's called but it's good stuff.
     
  15. Zahn
    • Contributing Member

    Zahn Contributing Member

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    If you use Loctite on a firearm, please use Blue 243. I'm going to try Blue 246 next, as it's the high temperature version of 243.
     
  16. Robbins290

    Robbins290 Member

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    Krylon high temp paint works great. I used green on a shotgun and black on a ruger 10/22. Worked great for years. Cheap and easy. Just make sure you deep clean the surface and get all lube and such off. I used rubbing alcohol.
     
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  17. Bwana John

    Bwana John Member

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    I think the bake method, (~250° for 2 hours), followed by a cure period of no handling (~2 weeks) works best with most enamel paint.

    Of course good prep is also important.
     
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  18. Rockrivr1

    Rockrivr1 Member

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    I've used Brownell's Aluma Hyde II with very good results. If you let it cure properly the finish will become rock solid.
     
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  19. illinoisburt

    illinoisburt Member

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    As an FYI for the small fasteners best compliments to correct fitting screw driver bits is a soldering iron and a manual mini impact driver. Apply heat directly to the screw head and hold it there until any loctite bubbles. There is a lot of metal to heat sink around it so be patient. Then tap the bit into the screw head, attached the driver, turn handle to pre-load, then hit the handle with a mallet or hammer. Much less likely to strip or break a fastener versus trying to muscle it out.
     
  20. rust collector
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    rust collector Moderator Staff Member

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    I replace cap screws or hex head screws with torx screws whenever I get a chance. Hexes are too easy to round off. I am sure this will not be a problem going forward, but fastener tech and availability have improved over the ages. The impact driver suggestion is also a good plan for tough fasteners. The problem is I rarely see it coming, and by the time I locate the driver some damage may already have occurred. :eek:
     
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  21. NMachine

    NMachine Member

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    A6D66D31-5A3C-4FD2-BC65-46B25FBB46B5.jpeg
    Used this on my saiga AK conversion when finished. It came out a really tough finish. I baked the sprayed parts @ 250 for an hour and a half. 2F39D821-D5B8-4A0E-A851-4FA2BA5E5F3E.jpeg
     
  22. Riomouse911

    Riomouse911 Member

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    I’ve used it on my daughters YZ65 two-stroke expansion pipe, those get plenty hot. I’ve seen no issues with it peeling, I think it’ll handle gun heat easily :)

    Stay safe.
     
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  23. Lo-Profile

    Lo-Profile Member

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    Another vote for the high temp krylon
     
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