Moving a safe - Ideas?

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Helped a buddy of my install/move a Fort Knox Yeager couple years ago, biggest one they made 7241, just under 2000#. Was taken off the truck with a hand cart then moved into the house with 2 inch PVC pipe. Pipe was at least 2 inch 3ft sections, had 6 or 8, we had on problems moving where he wanted. My opinion save your money and get the PVC and NOT the steel.
 
Helped a buddy of my install/move a Fort Knox Yeager couple years ago, biggest one they made 7241, just under 2000#. Was taken off the truck with a hand cart then moved into the house with 2 inch PVC pipe. Pipe was at least 2 inch 3ft sections, had 6 or 8, we had on problems moving where he wanted. My opinion save your money and get the PVC and NOT the steel.

PVC is the far better option that steel. It's not only cheaper, but easier to maneuver into place. It'll take a lot of weight, especially when used in combination. I'd say you can "wiggle" the safe around on top of the PVC easier than steel too (less friction from plastic to metal than metal on metal).

I've moved one safe and PVC was the way we did it.
 
I used to move safes for a living as well...We routinely moved up to 4000# ones with 2 guys, and up to 6000# with 3 guys. All a matter of physics, and using your head.

Rollers/plywood, as stated is the way to go.. However, you'll definitely want metal rollers, PVC will crush under that kinda weight, and be difficult to roll, or completely break.

Don't remove the door. We would only remove a door if we had to "tip" the safe alot. You'll only have to tip it a couple degrees to get the rollers underneath.

Doorways are trickiest part...Rollers should be short enough to go through doorway OR just make sure you hit the door way so that the "next" roller is spaced properly.
 
I might as well add my 2 cents to this.
I have moved a couple of safes, one weighed 1100 lbs and the other weighed 15 tons!! It was also full of money. Actually, on that one, I was helping a professional safe guy. We raised it with pry bars and put it on solid 1" steel rollers. It moved so easily, it would scare you. If it were to start to tip over, his advice was to run like he!!. :D His logic was good; you can always fix the safe, IF you are still around.
I used this limited experience when I installed my own gun safe. At only 1100 lbs, it was a piece of cake.
 
IMO - NIX the PVC

PVC is the far better option that steel.
IMO - definately NOT a good idea...

PVC will always flatten - even slightly - and potentially crush depending on the circumstances. The slightest flattening makes movement MUCH more difficult.

The BIGGER the roller, the more dangerous it is and more work is involved...

Also, moving a chest on steel rollers (steel on steel) is a LOT easier to move than steel on plastic. TRUST ME...

Small Solid steel rollers it the Safest and Best method to employ.
 
CB900,

It's a B14. I checked my paperwork from when I bought it and it states the weight at 1460 lbs., my memory is bad. Still, that thing is pretty solid. If anyone out there is considering buying a safe, I can highly recommend a Graffunder. I originally got a recommendation from a locksmith who had to open a friends safe that was damaged in a burglary. He claimed they were one of the most difficult safes to break into and as fireproof as any, not to mention the extreme weight. And it's cool looking.
 
Fella's;

If any of you would be interested in obtaining a Graffunder, please PM me for a quote. These are true U.L. rated safes, not an RSC tin box.

900F
 
We bought the little plastic discs for moving furniture and we can shove our safe around pretty easily wherever we want it to go. They really do work well!

Personal experience: Don't use a hand cart!! If it tips back just a speck too far, the wheels will roll forward and the whole thing will come back on you!

Be safe and good luck.:D
 
NRALIFE brought up a topic that I was thinking of posting soon. The twist is I have to bring my 650lb safe up a flight of stairs. I brought it down on a apliance dolly with 4 guys, but I am afraid going up is going to be a little more difficult.
 
Yes, I saw a case where a kid using a hand truck let the load (900 lbs) go too far toward himself and lost the balance. He was hanging on to the handle with both hands when it smashed into the concrete. 19 yo, lost all the fingers on both hands. Pinched off by the bar making contact with the concrete. BE CAREFUL!!
 
Just made a huge score over at Boeing surplus. Got 5 30" long 3/4" thick steel bars for the rollers for $9. A sheet of plywood at Home Depot and I think I'm set. Should I cut the bars a little longer than the safe is wide?
 
NRA;

As was suggested earlier, measure any doorways first. A doorway is not where you want to get that thing stuck. Buy two sheets of plywood. My suggestion is roll end-wise, that's 22.75", & if you cut the bar stock to 24", you should be in great shape.

Get one corner up & put a ply in from the end. Put a bar in on a diagonal & start the safe out both to the end and away from the wall. You'll only need to gain 6" or so & then you can go any direction you want.

900F
 
I bribed the vending machine guy at work. For 50 bucks he came out to the house one friday with a vending machine dollie. I got quotes from the moving company anywhere from 4-$800. 50 was a deal. I only had to move it once though.
 
Thanks for all the good info. Especially TC-TX and CB900F. It worked perfectly. I was very surprised at how easily the safe moved on the plywood. I ended up using 4 - 1/2" solid steel round bars rolled on 1/2" plywood. The plywood did compress slightly from the weight. The trick of angling the bars to turn the safe was key, thanks TC-TX. It literally started to turn itself with almost no effort. It took me longer to empty the darn thing out and put all the stuff back in that it took to move it. A few suggestions for anyone attempting this:

1) Plan, Plan, Plan. Make sure you have EVERYTHING you will need very handy. It really helped to have a whole bunch of different sized wood blocks. 1/2" thick, 3/4", 1", etc of all different sizes.

2) Have a REAL sturdy pry bar. I used one I borrowed from my neighbor, about 4 feet long, made out of an old Model A drive shaft.

3) Be patient and coordinate every move with your help (Mrs. NRA4LIFE here).

4) Do not EVER say out loud "What was I thinking, buying a safe this heavy?" Your brain will now automatically repeat that approximately every 30 seconds.

Again, thanks for all the tips.
 
Congrats NRA4Life - it is a great feeling getting to over power a Huge Block of weight with mere brain-power!

All the best!
 
NRA;

Glad it went well for you. As you said, planning beats sore muscles & an aching back every time.

Good for you!

900F
 
Pay the money it is way cheaper than getting hurt. Pro's are good for a lot of things.
 
the best way to move a safe is with machine rollers or machine skates. you can rent them at any tool rental place. they are designed to handle heavy loads up to 30 tons and you can roll it around wherever. You can lift your safe up with a Johnson jack or a car jack to get the rollers/skates underneath them. I know...I've done it. also can use a pallet jack/lift. rol-a-lift.com is usefull too.
 
Wow. Old thread.

Hire somebody.

50 bucks and done.

I don't know if I'd hire a $50 safe mover. Probably doesn't have insurance, equipment, or even shoes for that price.

In the St. Louis area, and we're lower than many other areas, we get $125 an hour shop to shop. This includes 2 men and basic equipment.
 
Think like the Egyptians... (no not slave labor). Use rollers, golf balls, softballs, baseballs, metal pipes, etc. Just protect your floor and be careful not to tip it and kill someone... and make sure your homeowners is up to date!
 
Call all the safe sellers and see if they will move it. $400 sounds outrageous since I paid $125 to have my safe delivered and positioned.

Here was the slickest tool. They brought a bag of wood strips, roughly 4' x 2" x 3/4".
On one side was rubber for the hardwood floors, on the top was teflon to go next to the safe bottom. They laid the strips out like railroad tracks, and zip! the safe slid like it was on ice. Coolest tool I've ever seen. Theyt had to take the door off the room, and the handle off the safe, and it cleared by 1/4". They were worth their money, but not $400.
 
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