my bow setup... help
- Thread starter EatBugs
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It has been alluded to in some post but by all means have your bow equipment fitted by a qualified technician. Don't count on your friends to help set it up. One can not realize how important this is until they have had one set up specifically for them. You might be surprised how good of a shot you actually are if the equipment is working correctly.
I had my bow set up when I bought it and it felt like I could not miss with it. After a few years I noticed I could no longer take the squirrels from the trees while in the stand waiting for the elk to come in, chalked it up to eyes going bad with age. I took the bow in for a new mainstring and a good look over when the guy asked how long it had been. I am now back to taking small game with ease as it was when I first got it. A couple of my buddies have experienced similar results after having their bows fitted again. These are guys who have shot the same bows for over 15 years.
I had my bow set up when I bought it and it felt like I could not miss with it. After a few years I noticed I could no longer take the squirrels from the trees while in the stand waiting for the elk to come in, chalked it up to eyes going bad with age. I took the bow in for a new mainstring and a good look over when the guy asked how long it had been. I am now back to taking small game with ease as it was when I first got it. A couple of my buddies have experienced similar results after having their bows fitted again. These are guys who have shot the same bows for over 15 years.
EatBugs
Member
Thanks guys.... I will be going with the muzzys after reading posts and talking with the guys at the bow shop.... btw.... I will be having the bow set up by a professional... Specifically making an appointment to buy then have the bow set up by a man whom everyone swears by over here...
MCgunner
Member
Well, not to brag or anything, well, why not brag? But, I've gotten to the point that at 25 yards, I can call the spot for the arrow, just a matter of holding for a steady, sure release. 
Man, when you start getting it right, this archery stuff is kinda cool. All these years, I never knew. LOL! I still ain't worth a toot with a recurve, but heck, I'll shoot the compound with cheater sights. Can't have fun unless you have better'n even odds of hitting with it.
Anyway, so I just bought 6 of these off ebay. I don't know if they're any good, but hell, how many ways can ya make a 3 blade 75 grain broadhead? If they're junky, I can get better later. I can at least find out if the thing will shoot close to my POI with the 75 grain broadheads. I can get Muzzies for about 4 times the cost. I'll try these first. If they're sharp and they shoot straight, why not? If not, I ain't lost much. LOL
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350197518327&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSA:US:1123
Man, when you start getting it right, this archery stuff is kinda cool. All these years, I never knew. LOL! I still ain't worth a toot with a recurve, but heck, I'll shoot the compound with cheater sights. Can't have fun unless you have better'n even odds of hitting with it. Anyway, so I just bought 6 of these off ebay. I don't know if they're any good, but hell, how many ways can ya make a 3 blade 75 grain broadhead? If they're junky, I can get better later. I can at least find out if the thing will shoot close to my POI with the 75 grain broadheads. I can get Muzzies for about 4 times the cost. I'll try these first. If they're sharp and they shoot straight, why not? If not, I ain't lost much. LOL
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350197518327&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSA:US:1123
Supertac45
Member
Any Muzzy tip that will shoot well off of your bow.
Archery Ham
Member
A few things that I will address and your dealer will too and more:
1) Arrow spine. Pick the correct arrow stiffness for your draw weight. Use the shortest arrow possible, about one inch beyond the rest at full draw.
2) Before you leave the shop, test shoot field points and the arrow/broadhead combination you picked out.
You can have your field points hitting the same place as your broadheads within hunting distances. Some will argue this statement. If your bowsmith knows his stuff, he can make it happen.
My setup: Pearson TX-4 R2B2 Cams, 73#, 29" draw. I shoot Victory V1 300 arrows with Slick Trick heads and FOB "vanes"....425 grains flying at 301 FPS.
Each head stays with its own arrow. Spin tested and fly true to 60 yards.
Good luck. May your arrows fly straight.
1) Arrow spine. Pick the correct arrow stiffness for your draw weight. Use the shortest arrow possible, about one inch beyond the rest at full draw.
2) Before you leave the shop, test shoot field points and the arrow/broadhead combination you picked out.
You can have your field points hitting the same place as your broadheads within hunting distances. Some will argue this statement. If your bowsmith knows his stuff, he can make it happen.
My setup: Pearson TX-4 R2B2 Cams, 73#, 29" draw. I shoot Victory V1 300 arrows with Slick Trick heads and FOB "vanes"....425 grains flying at 301 FPS.
Each head stays with its own arrow. Spin tested and fly true to 60 yards.
Good luck. May your arrows fly straight.
41 Mag
Member
I tried several of the "recommended" broadheads when I got into archery last year. My equipment isn't the top of the line, latest greatest thing since sliced bread either. However, it will hold it's own right along side some of the best names.
I started out on a low budget due to having surgery on both elbows, and not knowing if I would even be able to keep up a routine of practice. I purchased one of the Bowtech Tomkat packages. I figured that if I found I couldn't shoot it at least I would be able to pass it along to a younger nephew who could.
After the afore mentioned broadhead trial, I settled on using the 100gr Slick Trick standard for my first hunt. Myself along with several others found that even using different bows, that they always shot right where our field points hit.
My first deer was a disaster, in that he ducked right, just at the last second and instead of hitting him broadside, I hit him squarely between the shoulders. On impact he slammed sideways about two feet and almost hit the ground. He recovered and off through the brush and undergrowth he went not bothering to try and avoid anything in his path. I knew he was hit hard but wasn't sure how bad so I left the area and let him be. Upon my return two hours later, I found the arrow with the unfortunate green coating. I could not for rhe life of me figure out how I had hit him that far back. Around 10 or so that night I found my answer. I had hit him through the shoulders and the arrow continued right on through and out just inside of his offside ham. Almost a lengthwise penetration and still stuck in the ground pretty well. The entry hole was a mess of broken vertebrae and it is a wonder he managed to go anywhere. Even so I have the utmost confidence that many other heads might not have survived the impact with all of the bone and still gotten through what this one did.
I have since shot a nice hog using another one of the Slick Trick tips the Razor Trick. This one I highly suggest giving a try as it is built almost indestructible. It is a true cut on contact head in every aspect, and will deliver great penetration even through the shoulder of a hog. Here is the entry of one I got not long ago.
you can clearly see where it caught the back part of the shoulder. It went through so fast the hog hardly reacted and simply stood there. Once it did react it only went about 25yds and that was that.
Use what you want, but given the chance, ar least give the Slick Tricks a run for the money. I highly doubt you will find any faults with them or the performance you get form them.
I started out on a low budget due to having surgery on both elbows, and not knowing if I would even be able to keep up a routine of practice. I purchased one of the Bowtech Tomkat packages. I figured that if I found I couldn't shoot it at least I would be able to pass it along to a younger nephew who could.
After the afore mentioned broadhead trial, I settled on using the 100gr Slick Trick standard for my first hunt. Myself along with several others found that even using different bows, that they always shot right where our field points hit.
My first deer was a disaster, in that he ducked right, just at the last second and instead of hitting him broadside, I hit him squarely between the shoulders. On impact he slammed sideways about two feet and almost hit the ground. He recovered and off through the brush and undergrowth he went not bothering to try and avoid anything in his path. I knew he was hit hard but wasn't sure how bad so I left the area and let him be. Upon my return two hours later, I found the arrow with the unfortunate green coating. I could not for rhe life of me figure out how I had hit him that far back. Around 10 or so that night I found my answer. I had hit him through the shoulders and the arrow continued right on through and out just inside of his offside ham. Almost a lengthwise penetration and still stuck in the ground pretty well. The entry hole was a mess of broken vertebrae and it is a wonder he managed to go anywhere. Even so I have the utmost confidence that many other heads might not have survived the impact with all of the bone and still gotten through what this one did.
I have since shot a nice hog using another one of the Slick Trick tips the Razor Trick. This one I highly suggest giving a try as it is built almost indestructible. It is a true cut on contact head in every aspect, and will deliver great penetration even through the shoulder of a hog. Here is the entry of one I got not long ago.
you can clearly see where it caught the back part of the shoulder. It went through so fast the hog hardly reacted and simply stood there. Once it did react it only went about 25yds and that was that.
Use what you want, but given the chance, ar least give the Slick Tricks a run for the money. I highly doubt you will find any faults with them or the performance you get form them.
MCgunner
Member
I got those "Rocket" broadheads I ordered, came today. I must say, they're better than I'd expected. I don't like the fact that the retaining collar doesn't screw down to hold the blades. It relies on screwing into the arrow to retain the blades, which is okay, but if you take 'em off, the blades can fall out if the collar slips back. However, they shoot dead on to POI with my 125 grain field points which is what I'd hoped for.
The tips cut a full 1" diameter even though the blades look small. The point is fluted and looks like a real penetrator. It held up well to being shot into the box target. I don't know if these things are the latest and greatest and most up to dates, they ain't Muzzys, but I think they'll work.
The tips cut a full 1" diameter even though the blades look small. The point is fluted and looks like a real penetrator. It held up well to being shot into the box target. I don't know if these things are the latest and greatest and most up to dates, they ain't Muzzys, but I think they'll work.
Dr. Tad Hussein Winslow
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- Nov 14, 2007
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Hey snakeman and anyone who may know, could you answer me this if you can?
My buddy just got a used Martin Jaguar - it's an old one with the wood riser (maybe from the 80s or early 90s?).
It fits him, draw-length-wise but we do not know the pull weight, because the label is faded. However, the seller claimed it was a "50 lb" bow. What's NOT faded on the label is that it says "15 lb adjustment range". So we don't know if it's 35-50 or 50-65 or somewhere in between. My guess is 45-60 or 50-65.
Well the problem is that my buddy is physically pretty weak, and he could not draw it at all when cranked down tight. So I unscrewed it 5 full turns for him; I've read that you should not go more than 5 full turns on a compound bow generally, or risk it flying apart.
Well, he STILL could only pull it and shoot it once or twice before being too weak to pull it anymore. Not good at all for practicing. Now I've explained to him what exercises to do at the gym for lats, and he's going to work on this, but in the meantime I'm wondering if I could go a lot more than 5 full turns out since the bow says "15 lbs adjustment range" whereas most bows are only 10? I actually went 5 and 1/4 each to try to get it where he could shoot it over and over but it's still too strong for him.
So, anyone know how many turns you can go? It looks to me like there's quite a bit more of the bolt left to unscrew probably, but you cannot tell for sure because it's hidden inside the riser. What I don't want obviously is for the thing to snap apart and knock my teeth out and break the bow. Is there a "stopper mechanism" of some sort in there to prevent it from coming apart?
Thanks a lot.
My buddy just got a used Martin Jaguar - it's an old one with the wood riser (maybe from the 80s or early 90s?).
It fits him, draw-length-wise but we do not know the pull weight, because the label is faded. However, the seller claimed it was a "50 lb" bow. What's NOT faded on the label is that it says "15 lb adjustment range". So we don't know if it's 35-50 or 50-65 or somewhere in between. My guess is 45-60 or 50-65.
Well the problem is that my buddy is physically pretty weak, and he could not draw it at all when cranked down tight. So I unscrewed it 5 full turns for him; I've read that you should not go more than 5 full turns on a compound bow generally, or risk it flying apart.
Well, he STILL could only pull it and shoot it once or twice before being too weak to pull it anymore. Not good at all for practicing. Now I've explained to him what exercises to do at the gym for lats, and he's going to work on this, but in the meantime I'm wondering if I could go a lot more than 5 full turns out since the bow says "15 lbs adjustment range" whereas most bows are only 10? I actually went 5 and 1/4 each to try to get it where he could shoot it over and over but it's still too strong for him.
So, anyone know how many turns you can go? It looks to me like there's quite a bit more of the bolt left to unscrew probably, but you cannot tell for sure because it's hidden inside the riser. What I don't want obviously is for the thing to snap apart and knock my teeth out and break the bow. Is there a "stopper mechanism" of some sort in there to prevent it from coming apart?
Thanks a lot.
Last edited:
Dr. Tad Hussein Winslow
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For some reason, that last post of mine didn't bump the thread, so I'm doing so.
I use Easton Axis arrows with G5 monotecs 100gr. They fly true on my arrows and would use them again. Well I haven't needed to buy new ones yet, but when them time arises I will. The main thing to watch is to big of blade surface area. Some of the bigger braodheads will cause your arrow to rutter for awhile. You always want more surface area on your vanes than the broahead. So don't shoot little 2" blazer vanes with a huge broadhead.
Dr Tad 5 full turns on every bow I have owned which is 5 counting my kids. Don't know about a stopper.
Dr Tad 5 full turns on every bow I have owned which is 5 counting my kids. Don't know about a stopper.
Dr. Tad Hussein Winslow
member
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2007
- Messages
- 13,146
Sorry for the sidetrack, but look at how several Martin Owner's manuals I found directly contradict themselves in successive paragraphs:
Well it won't let my upload the image.
But first is says you can turn it out "5-7 turns" for storage, and then in the next paragraph it says (in bolt print) "never turn it more than 5 and 1/2 turns". WTH? This is for the Cougar/Bobcat/Jaguar bows.
Well it won't let my upload the image.
But first is says you can turn it out "5-7 turns" for storage, and then in the next paragraph it says (in bolt print) "never turn it more than 5 and 1/2 turns". WTH? This is for the Cougar/Bobcat/Jaguar bows.
muzzy's are great, solid heads. I have found them to sometimes take a great deal of work to get them to group with my faster bow, though. Just make SURE you spin test each arrow and make sure there is no wobble in the tip of whatever broadhead you use, and you should be able to get good groups with them in hunting distances.
I found that muzzy's allways hit low for me at 20 yards (I saw another poster above had heads that would hit low as well) and generally this means you need to tweak your rest up a tiny bit, or your nocking point down a tiny bit (by tiny, I mean 1/16 in. or less). I don't like to mess arouind with stuff like that if I can get broadheads to group, so generally, I just re-sight for hunting season. Whatever you do, DO NOT SKIP sighting in for broadheads. I can guarentee a broken heart due to a messed up shot if you don't make sure your broadheads hit where your pin is aiming.
I can also recommend the Slick Tricks. I have found them to hit very, very close to my field tips without any tweaking. They are extremely sharp out of the box, and leave a spectacular wound channel. These animals aren't spectacular trophies to anyone but me I know, but I took the deer and elk below last fall with 125 gr. ST Magnums (4 blades, 1.25 slice).
You might also look at magnus broadheads- they fly very straight, and have a lifetime guarentee.
good luck- and good hunting!
I found that muzzy's allways hit low for me at 20 yards (I saw another poster above had heads that would hit low as well) and generally this means you need to tweak your rest up a tiny bit, or your nocking point down a tiny bit (by tiny, I mean 1/16 in. or less). I don't like to mess arouind with stuff like that if I can get broadheads to group, so generally, I just re-sight for hunting season. Whatever you do, DO NOT SKIP sighting in for broadheads. I can guarentee a broken heart due to a messed up shot if you don't make sure your broadheads hit where your pin is aiming.
I can also recommend the Slick Tricks. I have found them to hit very, very close to my field tips without any tweaking. They are extremely sharp out of the box, and leave a spectacular wound channel. These animals aren't spectacular trophies to anyone but me I know, but I took the deer and elk below last fall with 125 gr. ST Magnums (4 blades, 1.25 slice).
You might also look at magnus broadheads- they fly very straight, and have a lifetime guarentee.
good luck- and good hunting!
moooose102
Member
i have never been fortunate enough to shoot a deer with a bow, (yet?) but i have been with a few people who have. i am telling you, when one of those mechanicals open up, it is like cutting the juggler with a machette! blood everywhere! if you can not follow the blood trail from one of those, you are completely blind. plus, with them bleeding so bad, they do not go far! i think the only way i would reccomend the standard 3 blade (or the old bear style) is if you were shooting a low power bow where penetration was an issue.
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