My First Garand!

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Nice rifle and welcome to the club. I've had mine about a year now and love it. It's so nice to be at the range and see someone shooting an AR-15, going "pop, pop", and mine goes off with a "BOOM" and they jump and mouth "holy sh*#". Definitely stay away from any Korean surplus ammo. I went through a lot of the Greek surplus and it was ok, but I prefer American made.

I want to make my barrel free floating. Has anyone here done any smithing on the forward grip and could offer advice? How much should of the interior should I whittle away?
 
Garands and M-14 type rifles are not floated for accuracy. They are bedded with downward pull on the barrel.
 
If you think that you might like to use the rifle in any of the John Garand series of matches you don't want to accurize or modify it without knowing what's allowed and what's not.
 
I plan on ordering ammo from the CMP. It comes with en bloc clips.
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Since when? None of my Greek ammo that I had delivered about 2 months ago came with any.
 
Since when? None of my Greek ammo that I had delivered about 2 months ago came with any.
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All the ammo I got from the North Store did, and according to the CMP, item 407-CAN (HXP in 192 round cans) does. Sounds like you got screwed, if that is the item you ordered. I think it has been that way for some time, other than the $65 rusty cans available at the stores, and the 240 round cans but I might be mistaken. I thought it was clear that the 240 round cans didn't come with clips, but again, I may be mistaken. I do know it is the only ammo (.30-06) on their site now.

Here is the link, look for yourself. http://www.thecmp.org/ammosales.htm
 
I have always enjoyed shooting, whether it was shotgun, rifle, or handgun. Then I bought a Garand. Now, when I think of shooting, it comes to mind first. The other guys are right. It is addictive. Enjoy it. Nice looking gun.
 
It comes both ways, In cans in boxes or in cans on enblocs and bandoleers. All depends what you order
 
Ah ha, yah I ordered the 240rd cans. No biggy. Enblocs are relatively cheap to come by.
 
This day in age, a Garand for $600 is a bargain, providing it shoots well and is mechanically sound. Enjoy and take care to shoot proper ammo.
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You can buy a service grade M1 from the CMP for 595.00 all day long. :)

And that same rifle would probably have a 1,200 price tag on it in a gun store. :eek:


The ONLY ammo CMP is selling right now is 192 round spam cans with the rounds on enbloc clips. They used to be 45 a can two years and now they are 75 a can. I have 4 cans sitting behind me. They came in 2 weeks ago and I ordered them in April so be prepared to wait.
 
what type of ammo can this shoot(safe)? what wrong with new ammo made today what is this (safe) ammo you speak of:confused::confused:
 
No commercial ammo unless you use a adjustable gas screw. Exceptions are Hornady and Federal make a Grand safe load but are very pricey.
Good quality M2BAll surplus is best route and cheapest, next is to handload
Do a search it has been discussed many many times before
 
You can buy a service grade M1 from the CMP for 595.00 all day long.
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Aye, yes, but add in the cost of the requirements to qualify for that $595.00 Garand and it's no longer that "cheap". (but still a hell of a deal when compared to dealer pricing)

C&R license: $30
Carry Conceal License: $100-???
Rifle/Pistol association: $30
Range proficiency: $100-200 (counting ammo, targets, paying someone to watch/sign off, paying for range time)


Now of course, some people (like me), already had those qualifications paid for as a part of their hobbies that they enjoy anyhow. But, if someone is paying for those so they have the "paper work" to qualify, it's still a bit expensive.
 
Firearms portion of CMP requirements:
Live fire hunters course =$0
Having rangemaster sign of on form supplied by CMP that you can safetly handle fireams=$0
military service=$0

Club memebership
Garand Collecotors Assocition =$25.00
There are other clubs that are $15.00 dues

So as you can see it can be done very, very cheaply
 
Welcome to the M1 fold. I've had one since the mid-80's. Back then you could only get one in your lifetime from DCM (forerunner to CMP). Pirce was @ 185 USD and most of that was for processing. Won't forget the day I went to the USPS to pick it up. Mine was a post war H&R that'd been arsenal rebuilt in 68. Be careful if you reload. Slamfires can occur.
 
Mine was marked on one of the receiver legs by electric pencil. Scott Duff has written some very good books on the M1 that can increase your knowledge. Back when I was young and bought my first gun, I got some good advice that has served me well the past 3 or so decades. "Buy a gun, buy a book"
 
Good advice BADSBSNF81,

I've been reading one of Scott Duff's books on M1s (post war) but hadn't run across any info on arsenal overhaul markings yet.
 
congrats on your new Grrrrand.:D

This is my Blue Sky import 1942 serial numbered receiver M1 I bought back in around 1987.It was my first rifle I bought when I turned old enough to buy one.Didn't know about Garands as far as differences of makers,fit,wear or collectability all I knew was I wanted one.

Never bothered to refinish it or anything,just kept it as is so far.I took it out a couple weeks ago to finally see what kind of groups I would get using HXP ammo.Before I had always used commercial ammo in it,but I only shot it once in a while anyway.It tends to group better with 165gr commercial ammo (I don't reload) but have decided to use HXP in it from now on.It was shooting low so every 8 shots I adjusted the sights to get it shooting in the black with a 6 O'clock hold as much as possible.

So results are that it is not my most accurate Garand.Muzzle wear is below 1,which the barrel is like new but has some frost in it because back in the day I didn't know what corrosive ammo was and I didn't clean it right away.Seems I average around 5 inch groups with it when shooting a clip of HXP throught it.

Suppose there are things I could do to make it more accurate but so far I just shoot it as is.For anybody interested in trying to make yours more accurate here is a good thread on doing so so it seems.

http://www.eotacforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=109&t=26735


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