My First Shotgun- J.C.Higgins Model 583.16

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gobsauce

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I found this shotgun at a pawn shop today ,and it caught my eye. Not sure why, I'm usually there to be a pain in their ass. Anyways, I've been a regular for about two years, buying odds and ends from them. When the owner saw my interest in it, he lowered the price to $100 from $170. Why not, Y'know? Welp, here I am.

I'm new to shotguns, I'm well versed in the disassembly and cycle of function of the more common ones - Rem. 870, Moss. 500, etc.

Not really sure where to go from here. Wood's a little dinged up, some very very light surface rust on the bolt, it fired an old 12 Gauge I found several years ago, in my sophomore year in highschool.

Here are a few pictures, excuse the mess:

IMG_20210302_195806828.jpg IMG_20210302_195844219.jpg IMG_20210302_195858482.jpg IMG_20210302_195904568.jpg
 
There was a recall on the JC Higgins 583 series; (dash 13-22) that involved the screw that keeps the bolt from coming out missing and also some reports of cracked receivers IIRC.
 
There was a recall on the JC Higgins 583 series; (dash 13-22) that involved the screw that keeps the bolt from coming out missing and also some reports of cracked receivers IIRC.
I did read about that, but it seems like the fault was mostly user: screw being stripped or not tightened enough. I already modeled it, so i can print a new one if need be. As for the receiver, treat it like Black Powder, keep the charges light.


ApacheCoTodd, weirdly enough, I'd never heard of them. They also had another weird tube fed .22 bolt action. The magazine mechanism is like that of the Marlin M60.
 
Is there another locking face/lug on the bolt other than the bolt-handle?

I see looking at internetly photos that there is apparently a secondary - maybe safety lug - opposite the handle.

In any case, it'd be easy enough to inspect for receiver failure in those cases.

Todd.
 
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The reason that the J. C. Higgins 12 gauge bolt action shotguns 583.13 and later were recalled is because they changed manufacturers. 583.1-583.12 were made by H&R, 583.13 and on were made by High Standard. High standard changed the design slightly, moving the safety from the side of the receiver to the top of the stock, which necessitated rising the bolt. This wouldn't normally be a problem, if it wasn't for a deep track in the receiver that the right extractor rides in. On the H&R shotguns, the track is right in the middle of the cutout in the receiver that the locking lug on the bolt handle locks into, not significantly weakening it. On the newer ones made by High Standard, the groove is on the bottom of the recess on the receiver, meaning the bolt locks into the weakest part of the receiver. That being said, all of the bolt shotguns that did fail (and there weren't very many) were being used with extremely heavy Winchester Super-X shells (Back then, Magnum meant Magnum!). They're generally OK to shoot as long as you don't overdo it.
 
20210303_113506.jpg J. C. Higgins 583.10 extractor track. The locking lug makes contact with the receiver on both the top and bottom of this tract.

20210303_113627.jpg
KuWFalG

J. C. Higgins 583.21 (16 gauge) The tract is at the bottom of the receiver recess, meaning all of the forces go through the weakest part of the receiver. On a 16 gauge gun, the tract is shallow enough to not cause any problems, but since they all use the same receivers the tract on a 12 gauge is a lot deeper than the one on the 16, and is subjected to more force.
yPmxsx8
 

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Old bolt shotguns are pretty neat. Most I've seen had clips instead of tube feed. Personally I think the tube would be a better thing.
 
Had one like it when I was a kid. That thing had the tightest choke I ever saw. Sold it to another kid that couldn't hit anything either so he sawed about 6" off of the end of the barrel then had a lot better luck with it.
 
Had one like it when I was a kid. That thing had the tightest choke I ever saw. Sold it to another kid that couldn't hit anything either so he sawed about 6" off of the end of the barrel then had a lot better luck with it.
I'll be honest, I don't know how to tell if a shotgun has a choke. I'm familiar with what it does, but if it isn't threaded on the barrel I can't tell.
 
It should say on the side of the barrel, with the gauge and chamber length. The most common chokes for those guns are Modified and Full.
 
I'll be honest, I don't know how to tell if a shotgun has a choke. I'm familiar with what it does, but if it isn't threaded on the barrel I can't tell.


Here is my Ten Cents on 12 gauge shotgun chokes.
The dime trick.
You have a old 12 gauge and not sure about its choke?
Check the muzzle if the dime will fit or not.


The dime trick only works on 12 gauge shotguns.
 
Full choke is where the dime Just wont fit, some the old shotguns also had extra full chokes.
 
It should say on the side of the barrel, with the gauge and chamber length. The most common chokes for those guns are Modified and Full.
It actually does, can't believe I missed it so many times!

"PROOF TESTED-12GA:FULL
2 3/4 CHAMBER" 16149598446126709137534656884838.jpg
 
If you want my opinion for what I believe would be suitable ammunition for it, I would say 2 3/4 birdshot loads up to 1300 FPS and 2 3/4 00 Buckshot loads up to 1325 FPS. I wouldn't shoot slugs or heavy1 1/4 ounce 1330 FPS birdshot it. The stocks do not hold up well to heavy loads. As a personal anecdote, I have handled a 12 Gauge J. C. Higgins bolt action that survived 4 boxes of 3" magnum rounds through it in the early 70's (Owner had loaned it to a kid that didn't know better) and the stock had completely shattered (Both from the heavy loads AND extra recoil/pressure from the 3" shells in a 2 3/4 chamber). The action, however, did not fail or even show undue wear. The stock was replaced and the gun was used normally for decades after.
 
Another thing to bear in mind is proper storage of the shotgun, if the air is very dry and cold the weather sucks the mosture right out of the stock and becomes a brittle twig that shatters.
People run into the same problems when stringing very old recurve wooden bows.
Those wood stocks gave been sitting in dry storage for 60+ years.
I temper my old savage by taking the stock off and stashing it behind the bathroom door for a couple weeks, it rehydrates.
 
If you want my opinion for what I believe would be suitable ammunition for it, I would say 2 3/4 birdshot loads up to 1300 FPS and 2 3/4 00 Buckshot loads up to 1325 FPS. I wouldn't shoot slugs or heavy1 1/4 ounce 1330 FPS birdshot it. The stocks do not hold up well to heavy loads. As a personal anecdote, I have handled a 12 Gauge J. C. Higgins bolt action that survived 4 boxes of 3" magnum rounds through it in the early 70's (Owner had loaned it to a kid that didn't know better) and the stock had completely shattered (Both from the heavy loads AND extra recoil/pressure from the 3" shells in a 2 3/4 chamber). The action, however, did not fail or even show undue wear. The stock was replaced and the gun was used normally for decades after.

Any recommendations for the 16 gauge variant?

I'm sorry to ask, but I tend to do this on my posts so as to include as much info as possible.
 
The 16 Gauge J. C. Higgins bolt actions should be good for any 2 3/4" or less 16 gauge lead shell you would want to use. While the 16's have the same design flaw, they also have a significantly thicker receiver and a shallower extractor groove. And even the hottest 16 gauge shell within proper pressure limits doesn't hold a candle to the 1950's and 60's super X loads. For example, the hottest 16 gauge load i've been able to find, both today and in vintage shell collections, is 1 1/8 ounces at 3 dram eq. (1200 FPS), which is equivalent to a normal field load for the 12 gauge. The old winchester Super-X 2 3/4 shells had 1 1/4 ounces of shot moving at 1350 FPS (4 Dram eq.)
 
I also found a 1959 failure report for a J. C. Higgins 583.16 12 gauge that you may find interesting. The gun showed considerable damage to the locking surfaces before it let go, and was being used with the aforementioned heavy Super-X loads
. Model 10 failure p1a.jpg

A 583.16 like the one in the failure report. If you look closely, you can see the metal where the receiver sheared off has what appears to be a line in the middle and half if it looks shinier than the other half? the duller part is where the receiver failed, and the shiny half is the bottom of the extractor groove. As you can see, the groove is deep enough that it cuts the metal thickness in half in that critical area. In my opinion, a combination of the thinness of the metal there, the 90 degree stress risers from the square groove, and the headspace issues from constant use with heavy loads causing the bolt to slam into the locking recess, caused it to fail.
583-16 Failure  no2.jpg
 
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Would anybody be able to tell me the diameter of the front sight? Thinking of replacing it,but not sure on the diameter.
 
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